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Old 11-22-2010, 08:00 AM
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1970 Chevy 350 Id Help Needed

HELP ME OUT IF YOY CAN PLEASE, JUST PULLED A 350 CHEVY OUT OF A 1970 BROOKWOOD STATION WAGON, THE ENGINE HAS A LOT OF CRAZY MARKS AND NUMBERS ON IT, I TOOK FOR GRANTED IT WAS THE ORIG ENGINE IN THE WAGON, BUT,,,,I HAVE READ THAT THE ENGINE YEAR SHOULD BE 1969,
I NEED HELP ON WHAT THE FOLLOWING #'S MEAN PLEASE?
1.THE CAST # IS 3970014
2.FRONT OF BLOCK HAS 10C169279, THIS IS NOT THE VIN OF THE WAGON
3.ON THE BLOCK,BACK,HALF MOON CUTOUT, OVER THE OIL FILTER IS A ? STAMP
4.OVER THE OIL FILTER ON THE BLOCK IS A N OR H, AND 2 #'S LOOKS LIKE 88 OR 66,99, I CANT READ IT VERY WELL
5.I WAS THINKING IT WAS THE ORIG ENGINE, BUT??? ,THE ENGINE WAS PULLED OUT OF A TEXAS BROOKWOOD WITH 69,000 MILES ON THE CAR,THE ENGINE WAS COMPLETE WITH TRANS AND REAREND, FROM THE 350 TURBOFIRE 300 HORSEPOWER STICKER TO THE FACTORY RUSTED MUFFLER, I AM PLANNING ON BEING LAZY AND SWAPPING OUT MY 283 ON MY 64 BISCAYNE, WITH THIS ENGINE, I THINK IT WILL FIRE UP AS IS, BUT IF THE 350 ENGINE IS NOT WHAT I THINK IT IS THEN ????? SELL? TRADE? TRASH? PART OUT?, PLEASE HELP ME IF YOU CAN I HAVE SPENT DAYS TRYING TO FIGURE THIS ENGINE OUT, THANKS FOR YOUR HELP AND TIME,,,,

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Old 11-22-2010, 08:30 AM
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Quote:
1.THE CAST # IS 3970014
Ayuh,... Loose the Cap-lock, 'n you'll probably get more answers....

That # is a 68 to 79 350...
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Old 11-22-2010, 09:03 AM
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Sorry

sorry guys, new here, have very,very bad eyes, to many deployments to iraq, i think the sun and dust and army crazy stuff has made me about blind, i promise to try and use no caps locks, thanks bondo, bad soldier
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Old 11-22-2010, 11:09 AM
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First - Props, Respect, and Thanks for your service. We (everybody I know) appreciate the sacrifice you and your family have made on our behalf. Also we are proud of the way you do it.

Second, The 3970014 block was cast and used to build engines at the Tonawanda engine plant (No records indicate that any of these blocks were actually built at Tonawanda, so it was probably assembled at one of the other four plants.) These engines came in 2 and 4 bolt main configurations for Camaros (70-300hp, 71- 245hp), Corvettes (early 73-200 and 255hp), and unknown model (no documentation late 72- 200 and 255 hp).

It would be quite interesting if it turned out to be a number matching original engine in a passenger car (Brookwood). If the last six numbers of the VIN code format block stamping "10C169279" match the last six numbers of the VIN, then it would be the original numbers matching engine for the Brookwood. The 10 indicates a 70 model year, "C" corresponds to Southgate California vehicle assembly plant.
Also look for an eight character code stamped on the engine block number pad (usually adjacent to the VIN Code format stamping. The format is PmmddCxx, with P as the plant code, (1970 engine plant assembly codes F=Flint, K=McKinnon Industries, S=Saginaw, T= Tonawanda, V=Flint); mm is month, dd is day, C is for Chevrolet and xx is the Engine code suffix. for a 300 hp 350 ci, w/TH350 trans in a passenger car this code would be "NR).

The "H" or "N" is probably an "H"; the 88, 66, or 99 is probably either 69, 89, or 99. This would indicate an engine cast date of August (H) 6th, 8th, or 9th; 1969. That woould be a correct cast date for a 6970014 block at Tonawanda

To tie it all together, the cylinder head casting number and casting date (remove the valve cover to see), will point to more specific information about the engine configuration and model.

I'll send more later.
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Old 11-22-2010, 11:40 AM
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thanks starnest

that is so much help, i loved doing the army thing when i was 18 it seemed like the coolest job on the planet, and it was until last january when i retired, now i get to catch up on all the fun things i didnt get to do while on duty, but it was worth every minute,i just got done pulling the valve covers off and the numbers look like 3947041 and a D13 70 on both heads, and the exhaust numbers are 3932473, i looked online and it said the heads could be a 194/150 or a 202/160 with a 64cc, soooo, i think i may have the orig engine from the wagon, i may just be reading the vin on the wagon wrong, the vin plate was on the driver side by the brake master, but i only wrote the 1st set of numbers as the rest were like trim and paint, body, numbers and i did not think they were important, the vin i have is 70-16438 from the wagon, the car is still there and i will go back in the morning and get the whole vin #, someone else said to get the numbers from the rear diff, but that parts of the car is on the ground , but i will try,the car is complete, just a little rust and a rear end full of accorn nuts, im sure it was under that tree for a few days, the car has the orig carb and has ac and ps, the carb is a rock 4bbl #7040202, with some crazy little box on the top of it, i am going to pull the oil pan next and see if it has a 2 or 4 bolt main, other than the valve covers and oil pan i dont want to take anything else off until i bring her back to life, i would like to put this 350 in my 64 biscayne , but i have a 59000 orig mile 283 in it now that runs strong, i have not been doing this restoring thing long and am a little slow, but with a very cool pick and pull about 5 miles from my house, it makes it hard to stay away from, well again thanks for your time and help, now its back to the oil pan,
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Old 11-22-2010, 12:08 PM
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350

well got the oil pan off, looks like a 4 bolt main engine, oil pan very clean, now gonna try and figure out the crank #
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Old 11-22-2010, 01:18 PM
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The heads were cast April 13, 1970. They have the 1.94/1.50 intake/exhaust valves (all 300hp did). The larger 2.02/1.60 valves can be added, but unless you are racing or the valves need replacing, you would spend a lot for little improvement in performance. The chambers are 63.3cc as cast (good for compression).

The carb is the 4MV non-CA for a 350/300hp AT.

It's good that you got the 4 bolt main motor, they hold up very well.

I would suggest that you consider doing a quick rebuild rather than trying to just make it run. I think that once they sit for a while, you necessarily get a lot of wear on the rings and bearings trying to start one up (any metal that lost it's coat of oil will rust, then when you start it you grind the rust off and take some metal with it).
Another point to consider is that the age and miles would suggest to me that the valve guides and seals need to be serviced. This would become apparent later on with a little extra oil consumption and smoke. It would be a shame to do all the work to install it then have a few problems creap in.
Then there is the fact that rebuild kits for your 350 are cheap and as long as you have access to a machine shop you trust, you can have a very good rebuilt engine ready to install for $500-600.
You need the machine shop to take care of the basics. Have the block dipped and cleaned, hone the cylinders (you can do this yourself). Then have the crank checked and turned (if needed). Have the heads serviced with new guides, seals, and replace any burned valves. You would only need to service (replace) the valve springs if you are replacing the stock cam with a high performance cam.
Go and talk to the machine shop guys before you start and get their prices. They might (probably will) suggest some additional services. That's OK, in some cases it might be needed. You can put together their list of service and vet them on the forum before you decide what you need. Just let everyone know that your building a street motor so they don't think you need all of the "extra" work needed for a race engine.
You will do fine to reuse your pistons, valves, rods, crank, etc as long as they don't have any visable flaws (ie holes burned through the pistons).

Whichever way you go, good luck, and let us know how you are doing.
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Old 11-22-2010, 01:47 PM
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thanks star

well again thanks, i am sure glad i found this site, i would be lost in outer internet space, i got the crank # which is 932442, b120, m12, so it looks like its a cast crank, after taking the engine out and cleaning the out side and removing the oil pan and valve covers ,it looks as if it has been rebuilt, the oil pan had no sludge, crank was clean, push rods look new, heads were very clean under valve, no carbon, looks like new intake gaskets, new timing cover gasket,new oil pan gasket,with plugs out spins over nice, very little play in chain ,compression sounds strong ,i know i need to get it rebuilt, and thats a good idea, but,,,i would just love to hear it crank up 1 time before i send if off to the shop, we have a good 1 here, he has done a few sets of heads for me before and does great work, well thanks again star, i hope the weather isnt to bad up there in va beach, did a couple of army schools up there at ft eustis, its a great place to be, and they have a really cool harley shop, well 2 of them on the beach, even though 1 only has clothes, thanks again for your help and time
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Old 11-22-2010, 02:11 PM
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Sounds like you have a nice 350 there, good luck with it. Who says hotrodding is not environmentally friendly, what a great way to recycle something
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Old 11-22-2010, 02:56 PM
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Yep, my book says its a nodular iron (cast) crank. Should have the thin 1/32" parting line verus the 1/4" parting line on forged cranks.

Based on what you describe, you may not need to rebuild. But since you got it out and the heads are off I'd also plastigage the bearings before reassembly.

If the bearings check out then just reassemble with new gaskets and make it run.

Since heads can be pulled for service without removing the entire engine, you could always address valve guides and seals later if they become an issue.

That 4 bolt main 350 is the best of the old school small blocks. It is a very desirable block for building high performance street engines and with upgraded crank, pistons, and rods it would be very strong.
Adding some good aftermarket aluminum heads, a good cam, intake, and headers you could easily make 500hp or more.

While they are not rare, (Chevy made millions of them) they are getting harder to find in good condition.
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Old 11-22-2010, 05:29 PM
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Thanks For All The Info

i got the engine to put in my new 1964 biscayne 2 door project, i have a 283 in it now that runs great it has the power pack heads and a 2bbl, the car is all orig, i went to the salvage yard and got a 305 aluminum 4 bbl intake and a newer 4 bbl from a 1986 chevy truck with low miles, so was just gonna put that on the 283 and see what happens, but then i found the brookwood and figured i would try and make it work without to many mods,i like to cruze with out having the coppers follow me around, im sure the 283 would do well for cruzzzzing and keep the biscayne close to orig, but, you cant beat a good 350 with a nice set of headers, and since the car is a 3 speed manual it will be fun to drive, well at least from 2nd to 3rd ,i might even be able to catch a civic or 2, well thanks for all the help and time, the computer was killing me trying to figure out what engine i had, and now with everyones help its time to drop her in and fire her old butt up, thanks again every one and dont eat to much turkey
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