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#2
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We just completed a rebuild of a 72 Chevy truck but we put it on a 71 GMC frame. It had power Disc brakes as an option( we had the build sheet) and they are the way to go. You need to find a junker with disc brakes and take spindles out and recondition as necessary. New rotors and calipers are not that expensive. Of course new ball joints will cost a bit. Also, get the porportioner block from the donner truck.
Trees |
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#4
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I have heard that 70 and 71 front ends are different? Also I am looking to join a club for older trucks. Anyone know of one near Tulsa, Oklahoma? <img src="graemlins/pimp.gif" border="0" alt="[pimp]" />
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#7
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Not ignoring you; need to do some checking and will get back.
Trees |
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#8
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digtaz, i get a few of these in once in a while.
get 250-300 bucks out of 'em(the disc brake setups). let me know if you're interested. where ya located? |
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#9
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I have done the 73-84 swap. I am not sure on the years, I am thinking 73-80. Anyway, I used a 78 and it works perfectly. You will find one or two holes on each side that line up. The rest will have to be drilled.
Chris |
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#10
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Thank you all.
Trees I didn't think you where ignoring me. I just though you where busy. Thank you for checking into this for me! Tomsilk digtaz, i get a few of these in once in a while. get 250-300 bucks out of 'em(the disc brake setups). let me know if you're interested. I am located in Tulsa, Oklahoma about 812.12 miles from Berthoud,CO. What would be the cost to ship one? Are you talking about the whole front assembly? Thank you I am also looking for a rear end for the truck. I would like to find a posi 327-373 I have a coil truck. Tomsilk do you runacross somthing like that? it would be worth a trip if it was a good price on both. |
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#11
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haven't came across a posi(yet)but ya never know..anyway,it'd be reasonable
as far as the disc brake setup, it would include booster/mc,proportioning valve,spindle/rotor/calipers to ship but if you were to pick it up, i'd prolly just cut the front section of the frame off and then you could have everything(control arms,st box,etc). |
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#12
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oh yeah, you DO know that'll change the wheel bolt pattern to a 5 on 5" rather than a6 bolt wheel, don'tcha?
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#14
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"yea I have a set of 5 lug steel rims and tires. got steel rims on it now so not much dif. What would the cost be if I pick it up?"
same money either way with the exception of shipping costs.truck freight will kill ya, though. will need a little advance notice though, got to drag one out of the snow/mud not sure what rear it has in it,will have to check. [ March 25, 2003: Message edited by: tomslik ]</p> |
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#15
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I'm doing a 67 and am using the complete 4-6 lowering kit from Early Classic. It has the spindles drilled to use your factory year ball-joints and tie-rod ends. If going to the later year spindles, all of this has to change and you have to remember what year each piece was, in case you need to change something down the road. With the Early Classic kit, everything is still 67. They have these in 2 1/2" drop and in stock height also, if you don't want to lower your truck.
As for the rear end, a 75 Linclon Continental rear is a good fit. It's a 9-inch unit with disc brakes and comes with the 5 on 5 bolt pattern to match the front discs. [ April 01, 2003: Message edited by: 48liner ]</p> |
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