1970 nova changing 8.2 to 8.5 soon - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Transmission - Rearend
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 02-24-2011, 08:08 PM
Registered User
 

Last journal entry: Unpacking
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: pk, new york
Posts: 91
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
1970 nova changing 8.2 to 8.5 soon

hey everyone its been a while since ive posted on this site but ive always recived the best help off here so ill always turn to you guys.

im working on building my first rear end for my 70 nova, im going to be swapping in a 73 8.5(which i already own). im looking for information on what kits i should use also what posi unit that would best suit my needs.
the car has a 88 305 in it,and a M20 tranny, the hottest engine this car will ever have is probably a 383 or somewhere along those lines so im not looking to build a big budget bulletproof rear here. just a nice one that i can have fun with smoking tires once and a while. the car will almost never be on the track, (maybe once for Ghits and Shiggles) nor will it be traveling long distances on highways, an hour or so at most. its probably just gonna be a Friday night stoplight to stoplight show off. im just trying to get ideas of what kits to buy and also what posi, i'd like to run 4.11 gears or so with maybe a 28" tall tire if it will fit. ive done some research on installation and whatnot but im really looking for advice here on how to build a rear to suit my needs. also i will need axles too
should i buy a kit like this? will it have everything i need?

Summit Diff install kit

how about these axles? i dont think ill ever be running hard-hooking slicks or launching at high RPMS

superior axle kit

im not set on any of these sites/company/brands, their just ideas to try and help everyone understand what im ramblin about.
also to anyone else looking to do the same i found these sites extremely helpful

http://www.drivetrain.com/parts_cata...tructions.html

http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/tr...axle-gear.html


sorry for the novel, i just wanted to give anyone as much info as i can.any help will be appreciated, thanks all.

    Advertisement
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 02-24-2011, 09:24 PM
ericnova72's Avatar
More for Less Racer
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: S.W. Lower Michigan
Age: 47
Posts: 9,633
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 41
Thanked 540 Times in 489 Posts
Check out Yukon gears, axles and Yukon Duragrip positraction units. One good source is Randy's Ring and Pinion.

Avoid Auburn posi units, and stock GM Gov-Loc units from the 1980's. Factory Eaton posi units from the 70's are good if you can find one, but they can be worn out and need new clutches so watch for that if you do find one, as rebuilding it will add to the cost.

Last edited by ericnova72; 02-24-2011 at 09:32 PM. Reason: spelling
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 02-24-2011, 09:30 PM
big gear head's Avatar
High Performance Rear Ends
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Central City, KY
Posts: 2,121
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 12
Thanked 482 Times in 409 Posts
I have built many of these rear ends with the 30 splin Eaton Posi and 30 spline Moser axles. I use Yukon gears and installation kits. This will give you a good strong rear end that's ready for future power upgrades. One suggestion that I have with the 8.5 rear ends is to weld the axle tubes. The plug welds on these rear ends are not very good and they have been known to break loose and let the rear end twist up. Welding the tubes is not a simple job. It requires nickel rods or wire and skill for welding steel to cast iron, but it's worth it. You don't want the drive shaft and pinion yoke sticking up through the floor under the rear seat. If it will never have slicks on it and if you have wheel hop completely under controll then you can probably skip this. Read this before trying to weld the tubes.
http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=18890

This is one that I did with nickel wire.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 02-25-2011, 06:31 AM
Registered User
 

Last journal entry: Unpacking
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: pk, new york
Posts: 91
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by ericnova72
Check out Yukon gears, axles and Yukon Duragrip positraction units. One good source is Randy's Ring and Pinion.

Avoid Auburn posi units, and stock GM Gov-Loc units from the 1980's. Factory Eaton posi units from the 70's are good if you can find one, but they can be worn out and need new clutches so watch for that if you do find one, as rebuilding it will add to the cost.
i actually have a GM Grenade-Loc in my basement, i bought it for $20. after doing some research on it i decided to not use it. im looking to buy a newer posi off summit or some other company, im just looking to see whats the best one to go with, again i dont need a top-of-the-line one, just one to suit my needs
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 02-25-2011, 07:05 AM
Registered User
 

Last journal entry: Unpacking
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: pk, new york
Posts: 91
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by big gear head
I have built many of these rear ends with the 30 splin Eaton Posi and 30 spline Moser axles. I use Yukon gears and installation kits. This will give you a good strong rear end that's ready for future power upgrades. One suggestion that I have with the 8.5 rear ends is to weld the axle tubes. The plug welds on these rear ends are not very good and they have been known to break loose and let the rear end twist up. Welding the tubes is not a simple job. It requires nickel rods or wire and skill for welding steel to cast iron, but it's worth it. You don't want the drive shaft and pinion yoke sticking up through the floor under the rear seat. If it will never have slicks on it and if you have wheel hop completely under controll then you can probably skip this. Read this before trying to weld the tubes.
http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=18890

This is one that I did with nickel wire.
thats one h e l l of a good job. was there a jig involved at all? or was controlling the heat/cooling enough to keep it from warping? i also sent you a PM
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #6 (permalink)  
Old 02-25-2011, 11:31 AM
cranky1's Avatar
Just stuck
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Pasagetdowndena, TX
Age: 63
Posts: 434
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 14
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Any time you weld on a rear end, you're going to get some movement. As for a jig, I don't weld with mine in place but I do stick it in to see which way it moves then weld accordingly cause if you weld with the jig in place, you might end up having a hard time getting it back out. And if I'm welding on new bearing housings....they are welded last.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #7 (permalink)  
Old 02-25-2011, 12:21 PM
Registered User
 

Last journal entry: Unpacking
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: pk, new york
Posts: 91
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by cranky1
Any time you weld on a rear end, you're going to get some movement. As for a jig, I don't weld with mine in place but I do stick it in to see which way it moves then weld accordingly cause if you weld with the jig in place, you might end up having a hard time getting it back out. And if I'm welding on new bearing housings....they are welded last.
can you go into more detail about this? whats on the inside? is that just a thick bar? does it run the entire length of the housing?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #8 (permalink)  
Old 02-25-2011, 01:57 PM
ericnova72's Avatar
More for Less Racer
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: S.W. Lower Michigan
Age: 47
Posts: 9,633
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 41
Thanked 540 Times in 489 Posts
I can help you here. I've made one.

Bar is round stock, 1-1/8" to 1-1/4", I used T-GAP shafting(Turned, Ground, And Polished). You then need to machine steel or aluminum "pucks" to go in place of the carrier and axle bearings that have a hole the size of your shaft through the middle. Once the carrier bearing replacement pucks are placed in the housing and the rear caps installed the bar is placed through the housing. Then put the axle bearing pucks in the housing ends and slide them onto the main shaft. This way all the bearing bores are kept in alignment. Be sure to align the axle bearing ends before welding so the brake cylinder bleeders will end up at the highest point when the axle housing is in the car.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #9 (permalink)  
Old 02-25-2011, 04:05 PM
Registered User
 

Last journal entry: Unpacking
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: pk, new york
Posts: 91
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by ericnova72
I can help you here. I've made one.

Bar is round stock, 1-1/8" to 1-1/4", I used T-GAP shafting(Turned, Ground, And Polished). You then need to machine steel or aluminum "pucks" to go in place of the carrier and axle bearings that have a hole the size of your shaft through the middle. Once the carrier bearing replacement pucks are placed in the housing and the rear caps installed the bar is placed through the housing. Then put the axle bearing pucks in the housing ends and slide them onto the main shaft. This way all the bearing bores are kept in alignment. Be sure to align the axle bearing ends before welding so the brake cylinder bleeders will end up at the highest point when the axle housing is in the car.
so ive got to cut the end of the axles off?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #10 (permalink)  
Old 02-25-2011, 04:41 PM
ericnova72's Avatar
More for Less Racer
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: S.W. Lower Michigan
Age: 47
Posts: 9,633
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 41
Thanked 540 Times in 489 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by gearjammer38
so ive got to cut the end of the axles off?
No, it isn't necessary. I didn't think about that fact as I am always using mine to either narrow the housing, or removing the stock axle bearing ends and replacing them with the common Big Bearing Ford 9" end.

The BBF housing end is the most popular for racing, gives you a big bearing pressed on the axle eliminating the need for C-clip eliminators on c-clip axle retention rear ends like 10 and 12-bolt GM and 8.8" Ford, and has the most options for disc brake conversions.

If you are just using it for checking a housing during and after welding you just need pucks for the carrier bearings and to fit in place in the stock axle bearing ends. Put the bar through the two installed carrier bearing pucks and then use the axle bearing pucks to confirm the alignment of the ends by sliding them over the bar to meet up with the factory housing bearing ends.

My alignment bar is about 6' long, so I can make nearly any width rear axle needed for hotrod cars and trucks.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #11 (permalink)  
Old 02-25-2011, 04:52 PM
big gear head's Avatar
High Performance Rear Ends
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Central City, KY
Posts: 2,121
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 12
Thanked 482 Times in 409 Posts
http://mittlerbros.com/rear-end-narrowing.php This is the housing fixture that I use now. I used a borrowed one that was made by a tool and die maker for years and then decided to buy my own. I use it to check the housing, but when welding the tubes to the center casting you don't get much movement in the tubes. I weld about 1 1/2 inch on one side and rotate it to the other side until I get all the way around. I was a DOD aircraft certified welder for about 10 years, so I got pretty good at welding.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #12 (permalink)  
Old 02-25-2011, 05:04 PM
Registered User
 

Last journal entry: Unpacking
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: pk, new york
Posts: 91
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
thanks for the help everyone, but i don't plan on narrowing the rear at all or changing to ford 9" ends, this will all be done in my garage by myself so i want to keep it simple and not get over my head. im still a little confused on how to make the "pucks" can anyone post pictures?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #13 (permalink)  
Old 02-25-2011, 05:13 PM
big gear head's Avatar
High Performance Rear Ends
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Central City, KY
Posts: 2,121
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 12
Thanked 482 Times in 409 Posts

Here is one from the old fixture that I used. They are just round steel that fits the ID of the housing end or bearing bore and the OD of the shaft.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #14 (permalink)  
Old 02-25-2011, 05:55 PM
ericnova72's Avatar
More for Less Racer
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: S.W. Lower Michigan
Age: 47
Posts: 9,633
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 41
Thanked 540 Times in 489 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by gearjammer38
thanks for the help everyone, but i don't plan on narrowing the rear at all or changing to ford 9" ends, this will all be done in my garage by myself so i want to keep it simple and not get over my head. im still a little confused on how to make the "pucks" can anyone post pictures?
This will require a machinist and a lathe to make them. Round stock turned to the proper OD to match the OD of the bearing race, then drilled and reamed or bored hole through the center match the diameter of your center bar. Mine are 1-1/4" thick.

Like a hockey puck with a hole through the middle, and the outside turned to the size of the bearing bore it is going into.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #15 (permalink)  
Old 02-26-2011, 09:27 AM
Registered User
 

Last journal entry: Unpacking
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: pk, new york
Posts: 91
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by big gear head

Here is one from the old fixture that I used. They are just round steel that fits the ID of the housing end or bearing bore and the OD of the shaft.

that picture helped alot, now i understand what you mean by pucks. i assume you made similar ones that bolt into the housing?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Transmission - Rearend posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
1970 Nova bigdawg199 General Rodding Tech 1 07-18-2010 07:49 PM
1970 nova bb's70nova Engine 6 07-11-2008 06:20 PM
1970 Nova Sweet Lu Suspension - Brakes - Steering 1 11-22-2007 01:36 AM
1970 nova bill76067 Introduce Yourself 1 04-19-2006 09:52 AM
1970 SS 396 Nova ChevyNovaSS396 Hotrodders' Lounge 5 01-09-2004 04:50 PM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 12:23 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.