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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 06-26-2012, 12:02 AM
RWENUTS's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trans Am Tony
Thanks for all the replies. I tried the jumper wire, still no spark. I have 11.34v with the ignition on, and 8.9v while cranking. I called the parts store and told them about the problems I've been having, and they said the points may be bad. So, I think it all might be a bad reman distributor........

"Hencho in Mexico"..............
TRy one more thing with the jumper wire. Unhook the wire that's on the positive on the coil and use the jumper wire only. If it runs you'll need to pull the jumper wire off to shut it off.

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 06-26-2012, 05:29 AM
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http://auto.howstuffworks.com/ignition-system4.htm

The condenser stops the points from burning out. Check out the link , hope it helps. I had a Fiat years ago that would not start. I changed every part of the distributor and finally figured out that someone had filed too much off the points and the resistance they are supposed to have had been lost. New points and away it went. Not sure whether yours are new or what.
Cheers
Al.
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Old 06-26-2012, 06:58 AM
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Points operation in Volvo 4 cylinder dist.

Just snapped a shot of a Volvo distributor to show the spade connection on the side . The spade connection "MUST" be insulated from the body of the distributor and connects inside to a black wire which is connected to the moving arm of the points .
The moving arm of the points are insulated at the pivot with a nylon bush. When the points close the coil builds up a charge and then when the points open the field coils collapse in the coil and fire a 30k volt spark out of the coil top to the dist. cap centre . Points are basically a ground switch
The fixed arm of the points are earthed to the base of the distributor.
If you connect a positive wire to the side of the distributor you will fry stuff from that point back through the wiring.
Cheers.
Al.
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Old 06-26-2012, 01:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trans Am Tony
Thanks for all the replies. I tried the jumper wire, still no spark. I have 11.34v with the ignition on, and 8.9v while cranking. I called the parts store and told them about the problems I've been having, and they said the points may be bad. So, I think it all might be a bad reman distributor........

"Hencho in Mexico"..............
Hopefully you left the vacuum advance in place on the new dist.
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Old 06-26-2012, 02:16 PM
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If you connect a positive wire to the side of the distributor you will fry stuff from that point back through the wiring.
Cheers.
Al.[/QUOTE]

It's a negative ground system Al. Wire from points goes to negative side of coil. I suggested + battery to + coil. Just like hotwiring it. Unhooking existing hot wire to coil eliminates his wiring from the ignition switch that might be fried or non existant.
JMHO
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Old 06-26-2012, 06:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RWENUTS
If you connect a positive wire to the side of the distributor you will fry stuff from that point back through the wiring.
Cheers.
Al.
It's a negative ground system Al. Wire from points goes to negative side of coil. I suggested + battery to + coil. Just like hotwiring it. Unhooking existing hot wire to coil eliminates his wiring from the ignition switch that might be fried or non existant.
JMHO[/QUOTE]
Yeah youre right , it is a negative ground system as i pointed out in the post.
........... i was saying..........If.......... you connect a positive wire to the side of the distributor you will fry stuff.
That wire from the neg. side of the coil has to be insulated right through to the moving arm of the points, even though its from the neg side of the coil. i.e. it cannot ground until the points close.
Cheers.
Al.

Last edited by 67Mustang Al.; 06-26-2012 at 06:52 PM.
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Old 06-29-2012, 10:24 PM
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Sorry I haven't gotten back lately, been hurting so I haven't been working on the car much. I put in the replacement distributor on Thursday, again with no spark. So, I went back to the parts store and bought an adjustible spark tester tool. Hooked up the coil wire to it, grounded the tool as instructed and still no spark. I took off both positive wires from the coil (power and electric choke), ran a jumper wire directly from the battery to the positive side, still no spark.......

Then, a thought crossed my mind.....If I fried my electric choke, would that, in turn, cause damage to my new coil if they were hooked together? I just can't figure out how I get no spark directly from the coil. I have checked and re-checked all the wires, all the voltage readings are good. What in the world am I missing.........?
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 07-10-2012, 04:51 PM
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Well, after re-checking everything AGAIN (lol) and replacing the ballast resistor with no positive results, I decided to let a garage look at it. So far, the guy said the points were mis-aligned and covered in grease. I'm probably the one that greased up the points, as yesterday I did the screwdriver test on the points (they did spark and have 12.47 volts). As I remember, the tips of the points on that distributor (and the previous remanned distributor) looked odd and not lined up properly. I guess thats what I get for trying to save a few bucks. I got both dizzy's from AutoPart International, and they got them from a Mexican company. I guess QC is NOT a strongpoint south of the border.........

As I find out more, I'll let you guys know............
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Old 07-10-2012, 04:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cobalt327 View Post
Hopefully you left the vacuum advance in place on the new dist.
LOL, yeah. I won't be modding this distributor. However, I'm saving my money to buy a good HEI dist and MSD 6AL box next year. I think the 455 will make more power with the HEI and the bigger plug gap (.045 vs the .035 I'm running for the points now) will make for more complete fuel burn and better mileage too.
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