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Old 02-04-2012, 03:50 PM
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1973 Corvette Power Brakes

My brake pedal on my '73 travels too far and turns on the e-brake light. I had them bled 8000 or 10,000 miles ago. I'm pretty sure it's not the wear on my calipers, but I don't know. It came on rather quickly. My master cylinder had fluid, and I filled it on up, but the brake pedal still travels too far. Any help will be appreciated. Thank you,
Don

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Old 02-04-2012, 04:01 PM
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Needs a new M/C!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by DonL01
My brake pedal on my '73 travels too far and turns on the e-brake light. I had them bled 8000 or 10,000 miles ago. I'm pretty sure it's not the wear on my calipers, but I don't know. It came on rather quickly. My master cylinder had fluid, and I filled it on up, but the brake pedal still travels too far. Any help will be appreciated. Thank you,
Don
If you don't have any visual leaks anywhere put a new M/C on it should fix the problem. JMO



Cole
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Old 02-04-2012, 04:57 PM
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Either the master cylinder is bad, or you have a bad wheel cylinder. An internal problem with the master cylinder is not visible and there will usually not be any leaks. I had a master cylinder go bad when I got carried away with bleeding the brakes. I think I pushed the pedal down so far that it pushed the piston seal in the master cylinder past a ridge that had built up, and that damaged the seal.

Leaks in the front lines or caliper should be easy to see, but if you have rear drums you will have to pull one to check the wheel cylinder. You should also check all the flexible lines that connect to each wheel, since old rubber can bulge and reduce pressure to the wheel.

Bruce
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Old 02-04-2012, 05:12 PM
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C-3 Vette's are a complete pain in the butt to bleed out. A power bleeder works great. Have you checked caliper piston seals to be sure they are not leaking? I had many issues with mine. Don't bother having someone pump the pedal while you try to bleed them. Complete waste of time.
You want to start with the right rear. There are two bleed screws on the caliper. Do the front one first. Then go to the left rear and do the same thing, then right front and finally the left front. I did not have the luxury of a power bleeder whe I did mine. I did gravity bleed. Pretty much just attached a hose to the screw, cracked it open and let it run. It comes out pretty slow. I actually went in the house and had a sandwich! LOL. Anyway, this is what worked for me and the pedal pressure is great.
You do need to determine if your M/C is bad. Do you have power brakes? If so, un-bolt it from the power unit and look to see if it is leaking out the back. If that's the case, it's time to replace it. Make sure you bench bleed the M/C before installing it.
If a caliper is leaking, replacement piston seals are available but are difficult to install without tearing them.
I don't know how old your brake system is, but I bought a kit from Muskegon Brake a few years ago. Came complete with M/C, 4 calipers, hard and soft lines, brake pads and even the brake fluid for less than $700.00. Cheap insurance for sure..
Good luck and don't drive it until it is sorted out...

Reid '72 T-top
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Old 02-04-2012, 06:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 75gmck25
Either the master cylinder is bad, or you have a bad wheel cylinder. An internal problem with the master cylinder is not visible and there will usually not be any leaks. I had a master cylinder go bad when I got carried away with bleeding the brakes. I think I pushed the pedal down so far that it pushed the piston seal in the master cylinder past a ridge that had built up, and that damaged the seal.

Leaks in the front lines or caliper should be easy to see, but if you have rear drums you will have to pull one to check the wheel cylinder. You should also check all the flexible lines that connect to each wheel, since old rubber can bulge and reduce pressure to the wheel.

Bruce
It has a factory 4-wheel disc brake set-up on it.



Cole
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