1974 Dart Swinger - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Hotrodding Basics
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 10-14-2008, 08:49 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Larkspur, California
Posts: 5
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
1974 Dart Swinger

basically i have a swinger with a 318 two barrel and its a slug and im lookin into a 383 hemi but they are hard to come by. any help?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 10-15-2008, 03:17 AM
Registered User
 

Last journal entry: 50 Ply wagon
Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Pottstown,Pa
Posts: 571
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 20 Times in 20 Posts
Unless you can do fabrication like welding and making things fit, you would be better off going to a 360 motor. Either a crate or find one in a yard and put that in. The crate 360 comes all the way up to 385HP and you would only have to change motor mounts. You may even buy small block stroker motors with 408CI. For the best bang for the buck , stick with using a small block, it will fit right in. just my 2 cents
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 10-15-2008, 03:23 AM
techinspector1's Avatar
Senior Curmudgeon
 
Last wiki edit: DynoSim combinations Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Hemet, California, USA
Age: 72
Posts: 12,205
Wiki Edits: 326

Thanks: 594
Thanked 756 Times in 646 Posts
Sounds like good advice to me.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 10-15-2008, 03:22 PM
Rustydawg's Avatar
Cruzin w/Elvis in Bigfoots UFO
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Edmonton AB, Great White North
Age: 48
Posts: 248
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 2
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by sunsetdart
For the best bang for the buck , stick with using a small block, it will fit right in. just my 2 cents
What he said! That's a fairly light car, you would be pleasantly surprised by what a 4 BBL 360 yanked out of a wrecked truck and a 3.23 axle would do for you - or a crate motor if you've got the money for it.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 10-15-2008, 04:45 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Colorado
Age: 65
Posts: 31
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
What they said, A Hemi is a lot of work to shoehorn in a small car.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #6 (permalink)  
Old 10-15-2008, 05:00 PM
Registered User
 
Last wiki edit: Mopar tapered axle rear brake conversion
Last journal entry: What I'm doing now...
Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2002
Posts: 4,267
Wiki Edits: 49

Thanks: 0
Thanked 4 Times in 4 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by MuscleFreak
basically i have a swinger with a 318 two barrel and its a slug and im lookin into a 383 hemi but they are hard to come by. any help?
No such thing as a 383 hemi. The 383 was a "B" block. The hemi was a 426 and was loosely based on the "RB" block.

Go for the 360 small block. Its a lot less work. Another option that's a lot less expensive would be to just wake up your 318. Aluminum heads, a good cam, headers and a good exhaust system, proper gearing, and a performance intake and carb will really wake that small block up.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #7 (permalink)  
Old 10-15-2008, 05:07 PM
strummin67's Avatar
Violating consensual reality
 

Last journal entry: '64 hood
Last photo:
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Sunnyvale, CA
Age: 47
Posts: 356
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I have a buddy who had a '67 Barracuda with a 383 4speed. The power to weight ratio was awesome but the handling was awful. You'd be better off building a 360. A lot less weight over the front end and you won't have to change the K member.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #8 (permalink)  
Old 10-21-2008, 06:02 PM
onebadmerc's Avatar
I need a bucket of arc sparks
 
Last wiki edit: How to identify SB Ford heads without pulling them
Last journal entry: trunk floor
Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Florence Colorado
Age: 42
Posts: 897
Wiki Edits: 1

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I had a 72 Dart and a 73 Dart and once considered doing a 383 or 440 swap. I searched the internet and found some places that had the mounts for a sb or slant six to a B or RB. I then took a serious look at my both my Darts, this was the deciding factor. The 72 had a factory 318 with a 904 and 7 1/4" rearend. The 73 Dart was a slant six with a manual three speed on the floor with a 7 1/4 rear end. This is what was going to have to be done to either of them for a B or RB conversion. I would need a B or RB transmission, stronger rearend, bigger torsion bars, a bigger radiator, better brakes than manual drums up front and back, a exhaust to fit a B or RB and to top it off, hands the size of Kermit the Frog. A Chrysler B engine is a tight fit, a RB is is even tighter in a Dart. If your car has power steering forget about keeping it with a B or RB engine. If you ever had to change the starter on your Dart, you will understand what I mean about having Kermit the Frog sized hands. You will have all your weight up front, no power steering and tire spin like crazy. I decided to do a 360 swap instead but that did not happen either. I ended up selling both my Darts and regret selling my 72. I do see it from time to time driving down the street, so at least it has a good home ,and wasn't melted down and made into Chinese beer cans.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #9 (permalink)  
Old 11-02-2008, 11:56 AM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: USA
Posts: 1,172
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by strummin67
I have a buddy who had a '67 Barracuda with a 383 4speed. The power to weight ratio was awesome but the handling was awful. You'd be better off building a 360. A lot less weight over the front end and you won't have to change the K member.


Ill handling Darts and Dusters is usually due to the fact that the owner is still using the stock slant 6 or 318 suspension.
The B is not that much heavier than the LA. I/we have built several.
Properly upgraded with anti-roll bars, better torsion bars and leaf springs, as well as wider wheels and speed rated tires, (BFG Radial TAs are craapy tires for handling) THE PRO STREET LOOK IS OUT

the D/D cars will corner very well on hilly curvey roads.
Done well, anyone who has a D/D handling problem on public raods is a menace to society driving beyond the vehicle capabilities.
Don't forget decent brakes.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #10 (permalink)  
Old 11-02-2008, 12:23 PM
strummin67's Avatar
Violating consensual reality
 

Last journal entry: '64 hood
Last photo:
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Sunnyvale, CA
Age: 47
Posts: 356
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by ScoTFrenzel
Ill handling Darts and Dusters is usually due to the fact that the owner is still using the stock slant 6 or 318 suspension.
His Barracuda was a factory 383 4 speed Formula S car so the wrong suspension wasn't the issue. Chrysler really didn't plan these to be handling wonders as much as they were straight line bombers. That being said, there is nothing to stop someone who wants to make their car that way.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #11 (permalink)  
Old 11-02-2008, 06:02 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: USA
Posts: 1,172
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by strummin67
His Barracuda was a factory 383 4 speed Formula S car so the wrong suspension wasn't the issue. Chrysler really didn't plan these to be handling wonders as much as they were straight line bombers. That being said, there is nothing to stop someone who wants to make their car that way.
True, but they were horrible on the tires of the 60s and 70s.
S rated tires are horrible. BFG TAs are some of the worst. They ruined my car.
H or V make a tremendous difference in handling, even in equal sizes.

We have transplanted big blocks into Dusters several times and tires and wheels make tremendous difference. Also an anti-roll bar. You have to experience it to believe it.

225.60s on 7" wheels minimum in front and 245.60s on 8.5" behind, all H or V speed rated. With the proper backspacing of course.
Does anybody even make H V rated 15 inch tires anymore???
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #12 (permalink)  
Old 11-02-2008, 08:16 PM
ret_marine2003's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: NORTHERN MICHIGAN
Posts: 103
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I had a Dart many years ago.

By the time I got it running the way I wanted it to, the back half rusted and separated from the top near the rear arch on the passenger side, then kinked the Driver side.

It was truly a "Swinger" after that.

If I can pass you any useful information in regards to your Dodge Dart experience, it is likely this: Make absolutely sure that the structure underneath the car is completely sound. Do not take anyone's word for it, check it yourself on a lift and have other people you trust check and make sure it is solid.

I burned through a lot of cars and trucks when I was younger that I should have kept, and I broke a lot of the same due to ignorance and assumptions on my part.

If I had checked my Dart better when I bought it, I could have saved it.

I bought it reasonably when I lived in Louisville Ga. back in the 80's.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #13 (permalink)  
Old 11-03-2008, 06:40 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Floral City, Florida
Posts: 53
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Right..no such thing as a 383 Hemi

I am a big Mopar fan so I know something about building them for the last 15 years. I think you should build the car the way you want it. It really isn't hard to build an A-body with a B or RB big block. You really need to check out Big Block Dart.com for all your questions and top notch tech. Schumacher Creative Services manufactures perfect motor mounts for all conversions. Everyone is right when they tell you the car will handle better with a 360 and the weight distribution is better as well. You can save about 40 lbs using a 400 B-engine over a 440. There are ways to get the A-bodies to work exceedingly well with big blocks at the strip. Good luck with your Mopar.
Pat
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #14 (permalink)  
Old 11-13-2008, 11:06 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Austin
Posts: 1
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
If you want a hemi, go with a used 5.7 hemi. I just picked one up with harness, computer and all for $550. Its not a bolt in, but its gonna be nice in my 70 Challenger.

If I were you though, I'd keep the 318. Its a really great motor, just needs some better heads. Get some mopar "magnum" 360 heads with a thin gasket (will boost the compression nicely) and slap em on with one of the cheap chinese edlebrock RPM airgap knockoffs, an edlebrock 650 carb and some headers and it would be a great runner. But as long as you have the heads off, put a new Comp XE268 Cam in it with new lifters, and you'd easily have well over 350hp without trying and your power brakes would work well too.

This is all assuming the compression is good on your motor. You can do some easy mods to the 904 torqueflight thats already in it and it would really snap the shifts and last longer too.

You may know that everything swaps between dusters/darts/valiants of that era, but most motor and interior parts will swap from any mopar of that era. Bucket seats, console, shifter, wheels, etc. If you have a stocked junkyard nearby, you can build a really sweet ride.

Adding buckets and a floor shifter will really change the feel of the car. Then the other upgrades in suspension and brakes. I wouldn't bother changing the rear unless an 8 1/4 or 8 3/4 dropped in your lap. The 7 1/4 will be fine unless its a dedicated strip car, which it doesn't sound like your plan.

Yours is a 74, so it probably has power disc brakes already, electronic ignition and big bolt (5 on 4.5") pattern already, so thats a plus. You can get 11 3/4" rotors, and the caliper bracket from a 77-79 B-body (monacos, corornets) and it will make a huge difference in stopping power. The late 70s/early 80s chargers, cordobas etc. will also have the big rotors, but you have to change calipers to slider type, not tough.

The sway bar will make a huge difference, the addco 1+" ones are fairly cheap from Summit.

I saw one like yours, paint the center of the grill flat black and it really looked great, might think about that. The tire sizes mentioned will work fine on the stock 4.5" backspacing rims. Pull the hubcaps and paint em black, hell, paint the whole thing flat black and tint the windows. Get some factory hoodscoops and it will be Baddass.

Good luck and send some pics of your progress, email me directly if you want any more specific information or help.

PlumCrazyChris
President
Mopar Muscle Cars of Austin
70 Challenger
68 Barracuda
www.mopar.org

Last edited by PlumCrazyChris; 11-13-2008 at 11:12 AM.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #15 (permalink)  
Old 07-10-2009, 08:58 AM
GulfCoastGasser's Avatar
Old Fart but ***** Newbie!
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Texas Gulf Coast
Age: 56
Posts: 12
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
It Can Be Done.

I know this is an old post but here is a picture of the Chrysler 400 (B) engine shoe-horned into my '74 Dart Swinger.




Its a Chrysler 400 with a 440 crank (aka a 451)
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Hotrodding Basics posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Dodge Dart Swinger Silentlion_69 General Rodding Tech 16 10-17-2008 08:26 PM
1974 Dart Swinger 4 speed conversion 73 Nova Guy Transmission - Rearend 5 02-13-2008 02:33 PM
1974 Dodge Dart Custom 318 oil in muffler/wont stay running Dalles Engine 11 12-12-2006 11:09 AM
1974 Dart shift kit Chev283 Transmission - Rearend 2 04-06-2006 02:30 PM
1972 dodge dart swinger ricekiller Engine 4 01-25-2003 09:57 AM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 06:46 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.