Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board - View Single Post - 1977 Chevrolet K10 - Starting Problems, Weak Idle and Power Loss
View Single Post
  #98 (permalink)  
Old 04-16-2011, 08:38 PM
lt1silverhawk's Avatar
lt1silverhawk lt1silverhawk is offline
"But how do it know?"
Last wiki edit: How to rebuild a Rochester Quadrajet 4MV carbureto... Last photo:
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Lakewood, CA
Posts: 2,322
Wiki Edits: 132

Thanks: 143
Thanked 30 Times in 22 Posts
Originally Posted by dsraven
too bad your bolts didn't come out with the magnet. you may end up pulling the intake to retrieve them, or rent a boroscope and take a good look.
It was a quick check before going to work. But if they aren't there to begin with, Im chasing ghosts. Removal of the intake remains a last resort for me at this point. I did remove the carburetor to get more space and clearance for searching and working. I'm trying to check the area behind the engine and on top of the transmission in case they fell and got stuck there.

Originally Posted by dsraven
those holes in the head up by the pushrods are just holes for oil drain back and breathing. the intake runners or ports are what you would see if you took the intake manifold off. if you have a stock intake manifold and look at it where it mates to the cylinder head, you will see numbers that designate cylinder numbering. those numbers are cast into the top of an intake runner/port. the oil from the valve train oiling would overfill the valve covers in short order without some drains back to the oil pan. they also make the head lighter so less cost to build. back in the day, guys would deburr the engine block and take all the rough casting slag etc off. then they would coat the interior of the engine with glyptol electric motor paint, like regular paint but made for high heat and sticks like **** to a blanket. anyway, that would allow the engine oil to make it's way back to the oil pan in a hurry so it could get pumped out again with the high volume oil pump.
if you look down one of those holes you will be looking directly at the lifters and the lifter valley. it has drain holes too, but they are more long and narrow. you don't want those bolts to go through the drain holes in the lifter valley because below that is the cam and lifters and then the crankshaft and con rods. lots of stuff to get jammed up in. make sure you account for those bolts. intake gaskets are fairly cheap if you can't find the bolts any other way. can you see anythiong from one of the other holes farther forward or on the head on the other side of the engine? use a good light and a mirror if need be. you could also try the library or online and get a pic of the engine with the intake manifold off so you know what you are dealing with when going in blind.
I tried the magnetic pick up again today. The pickup went in quite deep, but nothing came back attached to it. I did take pictures of the drain ports to see if I could perhaps identify something that might be a bolt. I over-exposed and sharpened the images so that things could be identified. If I end up finding nothing behind the engine or around the transmission (the bolts never made a sound when they fell), then I will tackle the intake manifold. Might do the mirror and light tonight. The flexible magnetic pickup has a strong LED.

Will report back. Thanks for the continued help!

Last edited by lt1silverhawk; 04-16-2011 at 09:00 PM.
Reply With Quote