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Old 06-09-2011, 11:31 PM
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So, it's been almost a month since I updated this thread. Got a chance to work on the truck this week. For summary, the intake manifold, distributor, carburetor, and driver-side valve cover were removed from the engine to chase down a missing bolt, which may have never fallen in the engine, it seems.

After coming to that conclusion, I moved on to the "put everything back together" phase.


I had previously scrubbed down the intake manifold (post #127). This past weekend, I cleaned off the mating surfaces on the heads. I stuffed shop towels into the port openings. Unfortunately, some of them were sticking out a bit and got caught in the wire wheel, sending bits and pieces that tore off flying everywhere. Won't use those next time. Lesson learned. I will be cleaning it all out using a rag and compressed air, unless someone has a better suggestion.


Originally Posted by 123pugsy
For chasing engine threads, you'll need SAE.

Grab yourself a cheap combo set, just be careful.
If you feel too much pressure back off and go at it again slowly.
I went ahead and purchased the 40 piece SAE tap and die set from Harbor Freight.

I used size 3/8" x 16 tap to clean out the threads. Didn't turn out to be too hard. The only place I had a hard time was near the from and rear of the block, where the large T-handle was too big and kept hitting things. Luckily, I had a smaller T-handle from a previous attempt, and its handle slides in both directions to avoid hitting anything. I tested each hole by screwing in a manifold bolt. I noticed after while that the holes are actually open, and some of them are right in front of the push rods. I am sure I didn't go deep enough with the tap or the bolt to even touch them, but I will be more careful in the future. Lesson learned. My cleaning procedure was to run the tap, clean it with carb cleaner spray and wipe down with rag, test the threads with the bolt, spray and wipe down the bolt, repeat on the next hole.

I Chem-dipped and wire-brush cleaned all the bolts but three of them were pretty bad. I Chem-dipped 'em 'em for another few hours, wire-brushed and carb-sprayed 'em but no good. So I stuck each one in the vice, and cleaned them up using the wire wheel on the drill. In the end, the look much cleaner than before, but I'm afraid I may have removed some materials here and there. I tested one out and it was fine. Should I be on the safe side and replace them?


Originally Posted by dsraven
run a tap through all the holes you will be putting bolts in as well, then use either oil, antisieze, sealer, or loctite on the threads never install a bolt without one of those items used on the threads first.
Originally Posted by 123pugsy
The bolts should have sealant as I've had oil come up thru the threads and puddle on the intake before.
I bought a bottle of the Right Stuff. I will be using this on the driver-side valve cover tomorrow. I still need to buy the Loctite for the threads.


Originally Posted by dsraven
there is a product called "the right stuff" by permatex I think. it is a quicker drying silicone, so if you need to get it running sooner try that. if you use rtv, don't put oil or coolant in the engine untill the next day or it may track itself out through the silicone and you will find a seeping type leak over time. read the directions (when nobody is looking of course).
Originally Posted by 123pugsy
New gaskets must be used.
Throw away the front and rear rubber seals and use only RTV silicone at these two places. They WILL leak if you use them.
I'm confused by this one. I went ahead and bought a set of gaskets, which include the front and rear seals. Are you suggesting that I ditch those two and strictly use the RTV stuff? Also, the gasket set came with restrictor plates. I figure I won't be needing those.


Aside from all of the above, I also plan on putting back the distributor tomorrow, along with doing a motor and radiator flush to get all the junk out. Any tips before I do anything with the distributor?
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