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  #136 (permalink)  
Old 06-12-2011, 10:41 AM
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The best money to spend on a SBC is cast aluminum valve covers.
The sheet metal ones will drive you crazy forever and eventually you'll be at the same cost with gasket changes, goops, etc.....
....forgot to mention chasing bolts during those gasket changes....

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  #137 (permalink)  
Old 06-12-2011, 11:13 AM
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I recently changed the camshaft on my SBC, so I went through the same reassembly process as the OP. I replaced the valve cover bolts with studs and used a steel-core rubber gasket with the stock steel valve covers. It seems to be holding up well, and it was really convenient to be able to pop the covers off to check the valve adjustment without having to worry about cleaning off RTV or other sealer. I think a switch to good quality aluminum valve covers is also a good idea, but I did not want to spend the money right now.

I don't about this SBC, but on my engine I needed to put the intake manifold on before the valve covers. The lip of the valve covers got in the way and I could not drop the manifold straight down on the block with the covers in place. I used a bead of black RTV on each end, and a little black RTV to hold the intake gaskets in place on the block. I also used the metal restrictors in the crossover opening in the gasket, since I don't really want much heat through the crossover.

Bruce
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  #138 (permalink)  
Old 06-12-2011, 08:44 PM
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Hey pugsy,
Quote:
Originally Posted by 123pugsy
The best money to spend on a SBC is cast aluminum valve covers.
Those are quite pricey on Summit (inquiry). They are quite cheaper and more styles are available on eBay (inquiry).




Quote:
Originally Posted by 123pugsy
The sheet metal ones will drive you crazy forever and eventually you'll be at the same cost with gasket changes, goops, etc.....
....forgot to mention chasing bolts during those gasket changes....
I wouldn't know anything about that.




Hey Bruce,
Quote:
Originally Posted by 75gmck250
I recently changed the camshaft on my SBC, so I went through the same reassembly process as the OP. I replaced the valve cover bolts with studs and used a steel-core rubber gasket with the stock steel valve covers. It seems to be holding up well, and it was really convenient to be able to pop the covers off to check the valve adjustment without having to worry about cleaning off RTV or other sealer. I think a switch to good quality aluminum valve covers is also a good idea, but I did not want to spend the money right now.
Were the bolts with studs you used something like this: Mr. Gasket Valve Cover Y-Wing Bolt Kits. Those would make life much easier. I assume you installed the studs, laid down the RTV on the head, then the gasket, followed by the valve cover?




Quote:
Originally Posted by 75gmck250
I don't about this SBC, but on my engine I needed to put the intake manifold on before the valve covers. The lip of the valve covers got in the way and I could not drop the manifold straight down on the block with the covers in place. I used a bead of black RTV on each end, and a little black RTV to hold the intake gaskets in place on the block.
I was able to remove and put back the manifold with one valve cover off. Not sure if O could do it with both valve covers on.




Quote:
Originally Posted by 75gmck250
I also used the metal restrictors in the crossover opening in the gasket, since I don't really want much heat through the crossover.

Bruce
I didn't realize that is what they were for. I still have them. Does it really make much of a difference?



Time to go take it all apart again...
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  #139 (permalink)  
Old 06-13-2011, 04:15 AM
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The Y-wing bolt kits are much fancier that what I used. I think mine were Mr. Gasket brand, but they are just simple studs that screw in to the head, and nuts with a built-in washer. I think this is what I bought http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/1/1...part-6324.html

I screwed the studs in and slipped the rubber gasket over them (tight fit). The steel reinforcement in the gasket keeps it lined up on the head and I did not use any sealer. I put the covers over the gasket and made sure they fully seated, put the stock tabs and my spark plug wire retainers over the studs, and tightened the nut down on top. I did not use any sealer.

I used the restrictors in the crossover because that's what my old gasket set had. I'm not sure I even get heat through the crossover, since I don't have an operational heat riser valve in the exhaust manifold connection to the header pipe.

Bruce
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  #140 (permalink)  
Old 06-16-2011, 10:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 75gmck25
The Y-wing bolt kits are much fancier that what I used. I think mine were Mr. Gasket brand, but they are just simple studs that screw in to the head, and nuts with a built-in washer. I think this is what I bought http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/1/1...part-6324.html

I screwed the studs in and slipped the rubber gasket over them (tight fit). The steel reinforcement in the gasket keeps it lined up on the head and I did not use any sealer. I put the covers over the gasket and made sure they fully seated, put the stock tabs and my spark plug wire retainers over the studs, and tightened the nut down on top. I did not use any sealer.
Those would make things easier. Thanks!




Quote:
Originally Posted by 75gmck25
I used the restrictors in the crossover because that's what my old gasket set had. I'm not sure I even get heat through the crossover, since I don't have an operational heat riser valve in the exhaust manifold connection to the header pipe.

Bruce
Yeah, my set came with those too but didn't know what they were all about. My truck doesn't have the heat riser valve either.




------------------------------------




So, I took off the driver-side valve cover and the intake manifold. That Right Stuff is no joke. Pretty damn strong. I cleaned off the valve cover and the intake manifold using the scrapper and the wire wheel.






I then cleaned the mating surface on the heads. A small piece piece of silicone/sealer fell into one of the ports, lading at the very edge (third opening on the driver-side front). I found it using the boroscope, then tried retrieving it with some long-nosed pliers and it dropped down.

Is a small piece of sealer something to worry about, or can I leave it be? I am thinking about slowly turning the engine until that particular valve lifts up, with the small piece of sealer hopefully still on top of it. Do all the valve close when the engine is turned off?


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  #141 (permalink)  
Old 06-16-2011, 02:40 PM
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Valves do not close when the engine is off.
They only close when the camshaft turns.
The camshaft turns by the chain that goes from the crankshaft to the camshaft.
When the lifter for that valve gets to the lowest part of the cam lobe the valve spring closes the valve.

Try getting a straw or small piece of hose and apply suction to it to pick up the silicone.
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  #142 (permalink)  
Old 06-17-2011, 12:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 123pugsy
Try getting a straw or small piece of hose and apply suction to it to pick up the silicone.
Pugsy, you're a genius. I made all kinds of contraptions using straws, electrical tape, fuel line hoses and a shop vacuum but it didn't seem like I caught anything. Maybe the vacuum caught it and i just never noticed. Nothing showed up on the boroscope either.




Quote:
Originally Posted by 123pugsy
The blue Locktite is thread locker, not sealant.
It may work, so I could be wrong.
The RTV black could have been used instead and wouldn't have cost you anymore. Anyways, its always good to have around. You'll need it someday. I like Permatex 2.
I went to Autozone a couple of days ago and couldn't find the brown Permatex stuff, except for the head gasket formula. Asked the store manager and he didn't know anything about it. So the black RTV is ok to use on the bolts?
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  #143 (permalink)  
Old 06-17-2011, 03:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lt1silverhawk
So the black RTV is ok to use on the bolts?
I've never used it, but it should work.
It just needs to seal the threads enough to keep any oil from wicking up and puddling on your intake.
If it will hold oil in the engine on the front and rear china walls, it should hold it from running up the threads.
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  #144 (permalink)  
Old 06-18-2011, 02:02 AM
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I reinstalled the intake manifold using new gaskets and a liberal dose of the Right Stuff.





Quote:
Originally Posted by 123pugsy
I've never used it, but it should work.
It just needs to seal the threads enough to keep any oil from wicking up and puddling on your intake.
If it will hold oil in the engine on the front and rear china walls, it should hold it from running up the threads.
I went ahead and used the Permatex High Temperature thread sealant. I couldn't find anything else locally that could serve as an appropriate thread sealant for intake manifold bolts. I was saving the black RTV as a last resort.






I then put some more Right Stuff on the valve cover and placed the rubber gasket on top of that. I used the new ARP bolts with the old wing washers. I applied some sealant to the these bolts as well.





After bolting down the valve cover and the intake manifold (I made sure not to go to town with the tightening this time), I spread some black RTV around the edges of the intake for additional sealing.



Everything is being let dry and cure tonight. The distributor is next, followed by the carburetor.
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  #145 (permalink)  
Old 06-26-2011, 12:39 AM
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So, all the RTV and the sealants have had lots of time to dry up. I have attached the instructions and spec sheets for all the sealants and RTV I've used so far. The only one I didn't have was the Right Stuff in Black. And the very last instruction sheet is missing the front cover is for the Permatex thread sealant mentioned in the last post.






-------------------------




I started preparing for the distributor install. I purchased a Actron remote starter switch to help me find TDC by cranking the engine. However, thanks to the pumpkin up front, I couldn't see the starter well and a hard time hooking up the leads. The first time I hooked up the leads, nothing happened. I assumed the leads either weren't hooked up correctly, or were simply connected at a bad spot. I tried taking pictures with the camera to get a better idea of what I was working with. The instructions say to connect one lead to where the cable from the battery is attached, and the second lead to the "S" terminal. Well, i didn't find anything labeled "S" so I took a guess at it.




The next day, I tried again and again, nothing happened. The actual problem turned out to be that the ground cable to the battery wasn't grounded. It is connected to the bracket that goes on top of the alternator and bolts up to the intake manifold and water pump. I also had to replace the positive battery terminal because the one on there truck had split. The post on battery was too wide, it seems.






I tried the starter switch again and still nothing except a low squeaking noise. Something turns but no idea what as non of the engine accessories nor the harmonic balancer were turning. I gave up and had someone crank the motor until I could feel the air being pushed out of the first spark plug hole. On the original cranking, there was actually a strong suction that damn near took in my finger.


Once I had the air pushing out from the spark plug hole #1, I lined up the marks using a breaker bar. The balancer originally landed on 4 degrees and I turned it the rest of the way. Unfortunately, and I may have mentioned this in an earlier post, the bolt head for the harmonic balancer seems to be getting stripped. I couldn't get a very good picture of it. It was a real struggle to keep the socket on there and turn the balancer.






The marks are now aligned. I have been using this article to prep myself for the actual distributor installation: "Install a small block chevy distributor".

Any other tips or pointers?
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Last edited by lt1silverhawk; 06-26-2011 at 01:07 AM.
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  #146 (permalink)  
Old 06-26-2011, 02:22 AM
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Don't forget the gasket.
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  #147 (permalink)  
Old 06-26-2011, 06:57 AM
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Its hard to turn the engine over with the balancer bolt because you can't keep the socket square on the bolt and it takes a lot of leverage. I didn't strip the bolt on mine, but I did crack a 6 point socket from the torque I was applying. Then I tried using an old 12 point and it stripped the inside of the socket.

For my last reassembly I used two methods:

1 - Before the balancer was installed. Remove the flywheel cover and clamp a vice grips on the toothed part of the flywheel. You can only turn it about 70 degrees, but there is good leverage because of the diameter of the flywheel. I also marked the flywheel with paint (a line running straight down) once I got to TDC.

2 - A strap wrench (rubber strap type from Lowes) around the crankshaft pulley. My outer belt on the pulley is for A/C and I did not have that belt installed. Its not easy to keep the strap in place on the pulley, but once you apply pressure it tightens up and you have quite a bit of leverage. Before I installed the fan I could turn it with the strap wrench from the engine compartment, but with the fan in place I had to lay under the truck and turn it over.

Bruce
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  #148 (permalink)  
Old 06-26-2011, 08:30 PM
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Hey Bruce,

Quote:
Originally Posted by 75gmck25
Its hard to turn the engine over with the balancer bolt because you can't keep the socket square on the bolt and it takes a lot of leverage. I didn't strip the bolt on mine, but I did crack a 6 point socket from the torque I was applying. Then I tried using an old 12 point and it stripped the inside of the socket.

For my last reassembly I used two methods:

1 - Before the balancer was installed. Remove the flywheel cover and clamp a vice grips on the toothed part of the flywheel. You can only turn it about 70 degrees, but there is good leverage because of the diameter of the flywheel. I also marked the flywheel with paint (a line running straight down) once I got to TDC.

2 - A strap wrench (rubber strap type from Lowes) around the crankshaft pulley. My outer belt on the pulley is for A/C and I did not have that belt installed. Its not easy to keep the strap in place on the pulley, but once you apply pressure it tightens up and you have quite a bit of leverage. Before I installed the fan I could turn it with the strap wrench from the engine compartment, but with the fan in place I had to lay under the truck and turn it over.

Bruce
Yes, it is damn near impossible to keep the socket over the bolt head. Both tips are very good. I personally like the strap wrench idea.


Would it be wise to install a new bolt? Is it even worth effort?




-----------------------




Quote:
Originally Posted by 123pugsy
Don't forget the gasket.
Gasket in place. I didn't use any RTV or sealant though. Not sure if it should be used.





Using the article, "Install a small block chevy distributor", as the guide, I went ahead and set the rotor at the 6:30 mark and then dropped it into the hole. The first set of pictures show how many tries it took to get there.

Then I remembered it was the 5:30 position. So I corrected it. The second set of pictures show how many tries it took to get to the 5:30 mark.










So the distributor appears to be in place. Haven't bolted it down yet. Next up is the carburetor.
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  #149 (permalink)  
Old 06-26-2011, 08:51 PM
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If the bolt is tight, I don't think its worth replacing until you have some other work that requires it to be removed.

Another option I found in my Summit catalog is a bracket that uses the three bolts that hold the the pulley on the balancer. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PRO-66782/

Bruce
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  #150 (permalink)  
Old 06-27-2011, 03:32 AM
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Before you think your distributor is in correctly, how far can it be rotated clockwise before the canister hits the firewall?

I had to pull one out once because I had it too close and couldn't set the timing.

No sealant on the gasket BTW.
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