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  #151 (permalink)  
Old 06-27-2011, 12:44 PM
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Hey Bruce,
Quote:
Originally Posted by 75gmck25
If the bolt is tight, I don't think its worth replacing until you have some other work that requires it to be removed.

Another option I found in my Summit catalog is a bracket that uses the three bolts that hold the the pulley on the balancer. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PRO-66782/

Bruce
The bolt is fairly tight. That tool looks super handy and totally worth the $20.




Hey Pugsy,
Quote:
Originally Posted by 123pugsy
Before you think your distributor is in correctly, how far can it be rotated clockwise before the canister hits the firewall?

I had to pull one out once because I had it too close and couldn't set the timing.





Quote:
Originally Posted by 123pugsy
No sealant on the gasket BTW.
An interesting note: I was reading the section titled "Distributor Installation" in David Vizard's "How to Rebuild Your Small-Block Chevy", and he says that sealer (sealant) should be applied to the side facing the distributor so the gasket will be held to the distributor (page 148). I imagine the sealant isn't exactly needed to "seal".
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  #152 (permalink)  
Old 06-27-2011, 01:54 PM
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looking good.
Get the carb on and fire her up.
You got your timing light ready?

You better follow Vizard on the sealant.
He's worked on way more engines than me.
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  #153 (permalink)  
Old 06-27-2011, 06:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 123pugsy
looking good.
Get the carb on and fire her up.
Carb is in place. Just need to hook up the remaining hoses on it. Aside from that, I hooked up the accelerator, throttle return and cruise control cables, upper radiator hose, the A.I.R. hose running across the front, the alternator bracket and the heater hose. I used sealant or thread locker on each one.

Off the top of my head, I still need to connect the lower radiator hose, put the petcock back on the radiator, fill it up with water (gonna do a flush), clamp down the distributor, put on the cap and wires, put the #1 cylinder spark plug back in, and fire it up.


I'm hoping to at least put everything together by tonight.




Quote:
Originally Posted by 123pugsy
You got your timing light ready?
After you almost bought one and shipped it out to me? Been ready lol!




Quote:
Originally Posted by 123pugsy
You better follow Vizard on the sealant.
He's worked on way more engines than me.
Will do!



By the way, I think I've ended up with a couple of bolts that I have no idea as to where they go.
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  #154 (permalink)  
Old 06-27-2011, 06:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lt1silverhawk
By the way, I think I've ended up with a couple of bolts that I have no idea as to where they go.

That's the way it always goes.
Just don't toss them near any engine openings.
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  #155 (permalink)  
Old 06-29-2011, 12:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 123pugsy
That's the way it always goes.
Just don't toss them near any engine openings.
... Oh, I can top that, Im sure...


This evening I put back everything that was left: lower radiator hose, radiator petcock, distributor cap, new spark plug wires (putting them on the cap before installing the whole setup on the distributor helps), #1 cylinder spark plug, put the various hoses for the carb back on by memory (a mistake), filled the radiator with water, and clamped the positive battery cable back on.


I sprayed some starting fluid into the car and attempted to start up the truck. The engine never caught. A little checking around (and quite a bit of tell tale oil) showed that the PCV was no installed. I corrected it immediately. The video of the start up attempt shows oil shooting out from behind the carburetor at approximately 00:33 second mark: Start Up Attempt: Video 1.


I did a quick wipe and a check, spray some more starting fluid, and tried starting it up again. Same results: Start Up Attempt: Video 2.


I took some pictures of the mess. Going by what I see, I am wondering if it is the hose circled in both photos that may be causing it. I have no idea what it is for or what it does.Anyone with info please do chime in.




I then removed the carburetor and found oil on the basket gasket. It was limited to the back half of the carb, and the oil was on top as well as the bottom of the gasket.


I will check the hose piece tomorrow morning before heading to work. Hopefully that is the problem.
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  #156 (permalink)  
Old 06-29-2011, 04:10 AM
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Try to trace that hose to find out exactly what its for. I can't tell by the pictures. But it squirting oil isn't keeping your truck from starting. I can almost guarantee that you just need to play with the timing. Depending on your cam it won't run while set exactly at the supposed "correct" stock timing. You just have to mess with it until it sounds good and starts easily and go from there.
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  #157 (permalink)  
Old 06-29-2011, 08:21 AM
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The hose in the pics is a vacuum line to the tranny.

Did you take out the oil pressure sensor from the rear of the motor? I believe its on top of the block, drivers side behind the intake manifold.
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  #158 (permalink)  
Old 06-29-2011, 09:25 AM
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Hey Rice44 and Pugsy,

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rice44
Try to trace that hose to find out exactly what its for. I can't tell by the pictures.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 123pugsy
The hose in the pics is a vacuum line to the tranny.
Got it. It does feel very wiggly so I hope its still in place on the transmission side. Will check on that.




Quote:
Originally Posted by Rice44
But it squirting oil isn't keeping your truck from starting. I can almost guarantee that you just need to play with the timing. Depending on your cam it won't run while set exactly at the supposed "correct" stock timing. You just have to mess with it until it sounds good and starts easily and go from there.
Right. The reason I stopped doing anything to get the truck started was because of the oil shooting out. But I believe the time may be retarded a bit much (too much "clockwise" ?).




Quote:
Originally Posted by 123pugsy
Did you take out the oil pressure sensor from the rear of the motor? I believe its on top of the block, drivers side behind the intake manifold.
Would it be the one pictured below? I didn't remove but did unplug the lead going to it while working on the manifold. Hopefully I didn't damage it when removing or reinstalling the manifold.

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  #159 (permalink)  
Old 06-29-2011, 10:34 AM
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That's the one.
That's the only thing I can think of that can squirt oil.
You'll know for sure if your oil pressure guage is not working.
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  #160 (permalink)  
Old 06-29-2011, 11:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 123pugsy
That's the one.
That's the only thing I can think of that can squirt oil.
You'll know for sure if your oil pressure guage is not working.
Sweet. That will help. In regards to the oil shooting out, I imagine it would have to be from the very top somewhere, where the copper-colored tube comes out. Any idea what that tube leads to?


While looking for pictures of oil pressure sensors, I ran across this article on Dakota Digital Gauges. Nice! "1973-1987 Chevy C10 & GMC Truck Dakota Digital Gauge Cluster Install - Gone Digital".


I was looking for replacements found this at the local Pep Boys: Oil Pressure Sender or Switch For Gauge. It doesn't look like the one I have but resembles the one shown in the article above.
_ _




And here is the more expensive one at Summit: Standard Motor Oil Pressure Gauge Sending Units
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  #161 (permalink)  
Old 06-29-2011, 01:14 PM
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The tube goes inside the truck to your oil pressure gage in the dashboard.

If the tube is cracked, you'll need to cut off the end and locate a new compression ring as the one on the tube will be locked in place.
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  #162 (permalink)  
Old 06-29-2011, 01:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 123pugsy
The tube goes inside the truck to your oil pressure gage in the dashboard.

If the tube is cracked, you'll need to cut off the end and locate a new compression ring as the one on the tube will be locked in place.
So that tube actually sends oil?
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  #163 (permalink)  
Old 06-29-2011, 01:48 PM
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Can make a mess in the interior of your truck if it breaks.

Not to worry though, I've got one in my 76 with no problems.
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  #164 (permalink)  
Old 06-29-2011, 01:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 123pugsy
Can make a mess in the interior of your truck if it breaks.

Not to worry though, I've got one in my 76 with no problems.
Knowing my luck...




Quote:
Originally Posted by 123pugsy
The tube goes inside the truck to your oil pressure gage in the dashboard.

If the tube is cracked, you'll need to cut off the end and locate a new compression ring as the one on the tube will be locked in place.
So, if in the rather likely case the hose is cracked, is there a procedure for replacing it? Where would the compression ring be located?
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  #165 (permalink)  
Old 06-29-2011, 05:48 PM
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Its not a hose.
Its a tiny copper tube.

I hate to say it but this is the most likely cause of a pressurized oil leak at the rear of the motor.
Remember this tube emits up to 60 psi on your gage.
Not sure if its really that much with the size of tube involved and how the gage is calibrated, but there is pressure there for sure.

I'll see if I can find something to link to.

See the pic. The arrow is pointing at the compression ring.
The tube is in the pic is plastic but like what you have, the ring is copper.
If its cracked you would need to cut the cracked tube off, slide a new ring on and screw it to the sensor.
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