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Old 03-07-2012, 11:27 AM
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lt1silverhawk lt1silverhawk is offline
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Hey cobalt,

Quote:
Originally Posted by cobalt327
The red cam-shaped plastic piece is the eccentric that lifts the secondary hangar/secondary metering rods in relation to the air valve opening. It has to be replaced, Ruggles has the kit, $12 to your door.
I had to go back to the rebuild thread as well as all the pictures I took last year to see if I had removed and reinstalled it, but nothing came up. So I am going to assume it has been inside the open space where the key goes all along. Ruggles does cover the procedure for removal and installation in his book (chapter 5, "Rebuilding the Carb", section "Air Horn", page 84), so I should be able to go through that.




Quote:
Originally Posted by cobalt327
I noticed in one of the earlier photos the little anti rattle spring on the power piston that keeps the primary metering rods from vibrating (thus wearing) inside the jets was out of position. Later photos show it back in correctly, so that should be OK. That spring can be omitted if there's any question as to the condition of it, it's there to insure 100K mile service life under all conditions and many guys leave it- and the small clip I'll talk about next- off the carb altogether. I use them FWIW.
Yes, that looks out of place because it came off when I removed the airhorn gasket. But it was fine before and I did reposition it before closing everything up.




Quote:
Originally Posted by cobalt327
On thing that you have got to fix is the small hook that clips to the needle part of the needle and seat assembly. The hook does not go through the hole in the float arm. This is a common mistake, but it can cause the needle to hang up and the float level can be all over the map. So, hook it over the cross piece closest to the power piston.
I am confused on this one. Would the cross piece be the pivot arm for the float?




Quote:
Originally Posted by cobalt327
I'd remove the epoxy. It's not doing any good and even though it can't fall into the float bowl, no reason to have it going through the engine. I'm guessing it was there for prevention's sake. If the well plugs ARE leaking get back to the forum and we can get into it further.
Yes, I had used the epoxy as precautionary measure (there was some discussion about them on pages 3 and 4 of the rebuild thread). I'll go ahead and completely remove it on the next dis-assembly. I don't believe the wells do leak, but if they do, I can attempt to install new plugs.




Quote:
Originally Posted by cobalt327
EDIT- The air bleed that's damaged needs to be opened back up to the same diameter as the undamaged one. You can use a small pick or smooth nail if small enough to resize the opening to match the other one. Dress the air bleed tip so there's no ragged edges, just don't shorten it excessively (excessive would be more than say 0.015").
Ok, sounds like an easy enough procedure.



Thanks!
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