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Old 03-08-2012, 08:05 PM
lt1silverhawk's Avatar
lt1silverhawk lt1silverhawk is offline
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Hey barry,


Quote:
Originally Posted by barry425
Generally speaking,
Initial timing=8 degrees
Mechanical advance in distributor=26 degrees (at the crank)
Subtotal=34 degrees
Vacuum=14-16 degrees
Total= 8+26+14=48
This may be a little high for todays gas. I would limit total around 45 degrees.
Thanks! I appreciate the break down.


Quote:
Originally Posted by barry425
Here is a method for finding the optimum timing settings. It is best if done on a hot day.
And it would start to cool off this weekend.


Quote:
Originally Posted by barry425
INITIAL:
Disconnect the vacuum advance hose and plug it.
Set the initial timing at 8 degrees.
Take off from a dead stop and see if the engine pings right off idle. If it does, then back off the initial timing until it stops.
Ok, simple enough.


Quote:
Originally Posted by barry425
MECHANICAL:
Make sure that the mechanical advance is correct with the timing light. Then take the warmed up engine out on the road and floor it.
If it is an automatic and it pings just after it shifts into a higher gear, back off the mechanical timing (you may have to buy a spring and weight kit).
If it is a stick, put it in a high gear (like 3rd) and floor it. If it pings, reduce the mechanical advance in the distributor (again, you may need a kit).
I looked up the instructions (here) on how to do this on my timing light. I think I've got it down.


Quote:
Originally Posted by barry425
VACUUM:
If it doesn't ping, then put the vacuum line back on and drive it up a long hill. If it pings, get an adjustable vacuum pot and back off the total available vacuum timing by the screw/cam adjustment on the inside of the distributor (NOT the screw inside the vacuum nipple).

Continue the above steps until you get it to never ping and you're set.
No long hills around here, just a couple of freeway overpasses. Ok, will give this a shot in this sequence. Hopefully it won't get too complicated.




Quote:
Originally Posted by barry425
I have seen several dampners slip. The guy with the sharpie idea has it right. make sure that the mark goes from the timing mark down the front of the dampner all the way onto the hub of the dampner so you can see if the rubber layer is allowing the outer ring to slip. IF IT IS, GET A NEW DAMPNER! THIS THING WILL BE A GRENADE AT FREEWAYS SPEEDS!!!
Ok, two votes for the Sharpie method. I definitely appreciate the warning on this.


Quote:
Originally Posted by barry425
I always run a FluidDampner on all my stuff. I hate buying radiators, water pumps, belts, air conditioner compressors, fenders, batteries, etc. just because I wanted to save a buck and use a worn out dampner.
The rubber on your dampner looks bad to me. It should be even all the way around, but yours seems to be pushing out in at least one spot.
Interesting. I will look it over completely and see if there are any places where its pushing out. I will also put up close up shots so you guys can get a better view. I honestly wouldn't know what to look for in terms of bad rubber.




Thanks for the continued help Barry!

Last edited by lt1silverhawk; 03-08-2012 at 08:15 PM.
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