1977 Chevy K20: Engine Suffers from Hesitation/Power Loss When In Drive - Page 11 - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
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  #151 (permalink)  
Old 07-16-2012, 12:33 PM
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Sometimes air gets trapped under the seal and (kind of like when you use silicone grease on spark plug boots) the seal wants to pop back up unless the pressure is relieved. Might take a little pinch/squeeze at the top of the seal to distort the ID of the seal just enough to let air out past the valve stem. Or maybe use a toothpick to slip in between the stem and seal.

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  #152 (permalink)  
Old 07-16-2012, 12:47 PM
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Originally Posted by cobalt327 View Post
Sometimes air gets trapped under the seal and (kind of like when you use silicone grease on spark plug boots) the seal wants to pop back up unless the pressure is relieved. Might take a little pinch/squeeze at the top of the seal to distort the ID of the seal just enough to let air out past the valve stem. Or maybe use a toothpick to slip in between the stem and seal.
LOL! I tried the pinch/squeeze method but that was a bit difficult with the metal bands around these viton seals. Then again, I'm always so paranoid about damaging anything, I probably didn't apply enough pressure. The tooth pick I would've never though of, since I'm having to use an installation sleeve to protect the seals.


I gotta say, these seals are really tight and it does take some serious pressure to slide 'em down. But once they are, I can tell there aren't going anywhere. I almost became concerned that the exhaust valves may not get enough lubrication.


Thanks cobalt!
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  #153 (permalink)  
Old 07-16-2012, 05:13 PM
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LOL! I tried the pinch/squeeze method but that was a bit difficult with the metal bands around these viton seals. Then again, I'm always so paranoid about damaging anything, I probably didn't apply enough pressure. The tooth pick I would've never though of, since I'm having to use an installation sleeve to protect the seals.


I gotta say, these seals are really tight and it does take some serious pressure to slide 'em down. But once they are, I can tell there aren't going anywhere. I almost became concerned that the exhaust valves may not get enough lubrication.


Thanks cobalt!
I hear ya on the exhausts. If you're keeping the seals anyway I suppose you could hedge your bet and use the "loose" seals on the exhausts and the tight ones on the intakes...
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  #154 (permalink)  
Old 07-16-2012, 05:49 PM
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I hear ya on the exhausts. If you're keeping the seals anyway I suppose you could hedge your bet and use the "loose" seals on the exhausts and the tight ones on the intakes...
Yeah, I was thinking the same thing, 'till I tried the Fel-pro SS 72527 on the intake valves. They seemed like a tighter fit than the ones' from Alex's Parts. When I do cylinder #6, I'll try them on the exhaust first to see if there is a difference. Now the Fel-pro SS7287 might be a better bet. I'll give them a close look.
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  #155 (permalink)  
Old 12-11-2012, 08:37 PM
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Originally Posted by cobalt327 View Post
Sometimes air gets trapped under the seal and (kind of like when you use silicone grease on spark plug boots) the seal wants to pop back up unless the pressure is relieved. Might take a little pinch/squeeze at the top of the seal to distort the ID of the seal just enough to let air out past the valve stem. Or maybe use a toothpick to slip in between the stem and seal.
Finally gonna do the valve stem seals. Would it be ok if I applied a little motor oil to each seal before slipping it on? A little oil underneath won't hurt anything I assume.

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  #156 (permalink)  
Old 12-11-2012, 08:41 PM
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Originally Posted by lt1silverhawk View Post
Finally gonna do the valve stem seals. Would it be ok if I applied a little motor oil to each seal before slipping it on? A little oil underneath won't hurt anything I assume.

Thanks,
Hey guy! Yeah, a dab of lube is a very good idea, dry start up can ruin a seal in short order. I wouldn't bother with putting anything under the seal necessarily, what you want is the seal ID where it rides on the stem to have some lubrication. Motor oil is fine if you're going to run the engine soon, if it's going to sit you can use a smear of lubriplate on the stems- that will stay put.
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  #157 (permalink)  
Old 12-12-2012, 03:28 AM
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Hey Moe.

X2 on the lube.

Glad to see you're back on the truck.
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  #158 (permalink)  
Old 12-12-2012, 04:23 PM
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Me too. Mainly because when the truck's done he's got some better iron for us to play with!
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