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1979 camaro 350 stalling

2K views 21 replies 3 participants last post by  camaro monkey 
#1 ·
Hey guys!
Brand new here and have been having a problem that has been stumping me and my friends
basically whenever im in drive and i put more than 1500 rpms then let it drop it will stall
i have an hei distributor and have replaced coil, cap, rotor, module, and condenser
the springs look a little worn out as well as the weights and i havent replace the vacuum advance but i dont think these could cause this problem
when it stalls i am able to start it up again no problem at all
my timing is about 9° advanced i think
carb is having no problem getting fuel
im thinking about just replacing the whole distributor. If that is my problem
Engine is a 350 edelbrock rpm intake and edelbrock carb
anything helps thank you in advance!
 
#7 ·
http://youtu.be/65s0cI0EkOk
Stock it needs to be 8 degrees
its difinitly not stock and to be honest i dont know why i put it there. I put it there yesterday and it ran fine yesterday
just today it started having this issue
i think what ill do is advance it tomorrow a little
i live in long beach california
i always run 91 octance too
my cam is mild but still a little lopey
above is a video of it idling when it ran good
correct me if im wrong but im now thinking it should be advanced more
 
#8 ·
The worn out holes in the weights and worn out advance springs can and will cause the very problem you are experiencing, by not keeping the timing correct at low rpm.

Very common problem with HEI distributors, the holes in the weights and also the pins that the weights swing on get badly worn over their 100,000 mile life, allowing the timing to drop too low at low rpm and the engine idles rough, idles too slowly, or stalls.

I've seen holes in weights worn egg shaped almost twice their normal size, and have seen the pins they ride on worn nearly to the point you'd think they would just snap off. If that's what you've got, it's time for a replacement distributor.
 
#10 · (Edited)
You can replace the springs and weights, but the weights typically nearly cut the pin in half also, both wear away together....and there are no replacing the pins, they are welded in. New weights on half size pins is still way sloppy.

Replacing a distributor is a 20 minute job, piece of cake, anyone can do it.

Pull cap, take picture with phone to note rotor and vacuum advance housing position, remove distributor body clamp, and pull old distributor out.

Align new distributor, allowing for the 1/16" turn clockwise the rotor is going to make as the gears mesh, and drop the new one in. Make sure it is seated fully, clamp it down, install cap, start engine and use timing light to fine correct the ignition timing.

Only thing you might have to do is reach into the engine down through the distributor hole in the intake with a long large flat blade screwdriver, and align(turn) oil pump drive to align with tang inside the distributor gear, as the tang location is random. Might take you a half dozen tries until you visualize how the tang and drive fit together, but it is not hard to do. :thumbup:

There is info and pictures in our online WIKI at the top of this page in the "Engine" section, under
"HEI" and "How to install distributor", and "Hotrodding the HEI Distributor"

Reading through the "Hotrodding the HEI" may also give you some tips on how to make your combination run even better by "blueprinting" your timing to specifically match your engines parts combo.
 
#11 ·
I could do the distributor tomorrow but do you guys think its the distributor or just bad timing?
From the sound of my cam what do you think the timing should be?
I dont know much about the engine, only had the car about 1 year. So i dont know the specs about the camshaft
 
#15 ·
Each weight swings on its own pin, so you've got two weights and pins to look at. Each weight has just one hole in it, it will be obvious if it is worn oval and oversize. If it is, you can guarantee the pin is badly worn where the weight swings off from it.

You may have to remove the two advance springs to see this, or it may be so obviously worn you won't even have to remove the springs.

If this is an original old HEI from 1979, I can practically guarantee you it is worn out. One in a million lives 35 years and is not completely shot.
 
#16 ·
So im about to just install this new distributor
its a proform hei
ill set the timing about 12 and see how its running
Then ill get back to you guys
does anyone have anything to chime in about what my timing should be with my cam?
I always run 91 octance and i live in long beach
dont know my cam specs
 
#20 ·
Everything seems good to go
got my timing at almost 12 initial with vacuum advance not hooked up
out of no where my stock water temp gauge is flickering on my dash, i have an aftermarket gauge set up and im not sure why its flashing but its intermittent
the water temp doesmt get above 180
anyone know why? Its the kimd that lights up and doesnt tell you the actual water temp
 
#22 ·
I really apreciate all your help man
love this forum
one more question, i notice the smell of either carbon burning or oil
the gasket on the distributor was good and no oil leaks around there
i have a pcv valve and breather cap on the other side so the crankcase is breathing
could this be from the hotter spark i am now putting out from the performance hei burning up the carbon deposits?
 
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