1984 full size blazer with 350 chevy crate engine questions
hello fellow chevy fans,
i'm new to the restoration game, and my first project is a 1984 full size blazer. I recently installed a crate motor i puchased from a friend that he had installed in his blazer also. But what i want to do is go through the motor and set all the specks to where they should be, because the guy i aquired the motor from although an accomplished gear head, i don't want to run the motor to his specs. What i need to know is where to put the timing, fuel mixture, plug gap, and what ever else i might need to know to make this motor run efficiently.
what it is, is a small block 350 with an rv cam, carter carb, weiend mid rise intake, old school chevy ram horn headers, the distributer is electronic, i'm drawing a blank on the proper name. well thats what i have thanks for any help i appreciate it.
do you have access to a local chassis dyno? The timing will be determined by power out put.The a/f ratio for a stockish engine should be around 13:1 at W.O.T. all the way to red line. Plug gap is usually around .035
no i dont just trying to do it by suggestions or other peoples expierence
put the fuel mixture to a ratio of 13:1 through the entire RPM band set at wide open throttle under a simulated load that is equal to your truck.
start with the timing at a total advance of 34 degrees set at 3,000 RPM or where ever your system peaks.This is with the vacuum advance disabled.(re establish vacuum advance system after tuning)plug gap ,use .035
First thing I would do is find out whether you have a motor or not. Do a compression test.
1. Run the motor long enough to bring it up to operating temp.
2. Put a tag on all the spark plug wires, identifying the cylinder they belong to.
3. Remove all spark plugs to make it easier to spin the motor with the starter.
4. Disconnect the hot wire from the distributor/coil to prevent a fire.
5. Remove air cleaner.
6. Use wire or cord to hold the carburetor primary throttle blades wide open.
7. Insert gauge line into spark plug hole. I've used the type that has a rubber tip that you have to hold firmly into the hole and I've used the type that screws into the head like a spark plug. Either will work if you follow instructions.
8. Have a friend grind the starter through 4 or 5 "chuffs" so that you max out the gauge on each cylinder.
9. Write down the results as you test.
10. Sit down and admire your work.
11. Post the results for us to see.
cylinder heads used, chamber size, intake and exhaust runner size?
block number used?
pistons used, what crown design?
block deck height?
piston deck height?
head gaskets used?
decks cut or not?
heads cut or not?
part number on intake manifold?
part number on carburetor, what jets, what metering rods, what squirter.
Did the builder correct the damper to show exact top dead center of the piston with the TDC notch on the inertia ring coinciding with the "0" mark on the timing tab?
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