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wiring
go to auto zone when you get to the web sight. left upper add current veh. then click on auto repairs. click on wiring diagrams. and follow instructions. you should get all the colors you need.
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alarm system
i check the system on auto zone- it is there--
here is how 1. after you get auto zone web sight 2. inter currant veh. 3.click shopping 3. click repair instruction on left side 4.click picture repair guide 5.click chassis electrical 6.click wiring diagram on right side 7.scroll down till you find the year it is 85 to 87 and under that it continued and so on---try this again-- it is there |
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Quote:
Doc
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Aftermarket Solutions Electronic & Electrical Innovations |
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The factory wiring diagrams are usually the best I have found. They usually come with the factory service manual.
Mine even has diagrams for individual circuits/systems. |
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Thanks for the info im going to look for one.
Right now my dad is helping my out quite a bit. Right now im trying to figure out which one of the Cutlass's door lock wirings match up with the alarm. The 1986 Cutlass im pretty sure has no door lock Module, Vacuum Pump, or BCM. That leaves me with only 3-4 options but I still aint 100 percent sure. Which one of the wiring diagrams would work for wiring my alarm to door locks. ![]() ![]() I think the one below is the setup I have on the car. Do yall think it is? ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() If yall could tell me this I would appreciate it. Thanks, Chris |
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Ok
So far I got the door locks to work off the car and the alarm to work. The remote start is also starting to work but from some reason it is cranking but wont start. If I start the car with the key in the ignition and start it starts up instantly, but when I start it by remote without the key in it the remote start just cranks. Does anyone know why it might be doing this? Here is what I hooked the Remote start wires up to. "5 Heavy Gauge starter harness in the starter module (ignition switch interface)" Alarm wire below: Purple wire: Starter output (+). Connect to the vehicles starter wire. Car wire below: I have this hooked up the the Purple wire under the steering column. Im sure this one is right because the car wouldn't be cranking if it wasn't. Alarm wire below: Orange wire: Accessory Output (+) Connect to the accessory wire coming from the ignition switch that supplies power to the heater/ac. Car Wire below: I have this one hooked up to the big Brown wire under the steering column. It only gets power when the key is in the ignition and turned 2 clicks. Alarm Wire below: Pink wire A: Ignition output(+). Connect to the main ignition wire that provides +12v when the ignition is on and while cranking the starter. Car wire below: I have this one hooked up to the big red wire under the steering column. While cranking is drops to like 10v and it Meters 14v when the car is running. I don't know if this one is right. Alarm wire below: Pink Wire B: Second ignition output (+) Connect to the second ignition wire of the vehicle. Car wire below: I have this one hooked up to the big pink wire hooked up under the steering column. It meters 12v at all times and 14v when car is running. Alarm wire below: Yellow Wire: (+) Ignition input of Key Cylinder to alarm. Connect to the ignition wire that provides +12v when the ignition wire is on and while cranking the starter. Car wire below: I also have this one hooked up the the big Brown wire under the steering column that only giver power when the key is in the ignition and turned 2 times. The remote start is working to some extent the engine just isn't firing up. It cranks but just doesn't start until I put the key in the ignition and do it manually. If anyone can help me out id appreciate it. Thanks, Chris |
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Quote:
Alarm wire below: Orange wire: Accessory Output (+) Connect to the accessory wire coming from the ignition switch that supplies power to the heater/ac. Car Wire below: I have this one hooked up to the big Brown wire under the steering column. It only gets power when the key is in the ignition and turned 2 clicks. I changed this wire to goto the Orange on the car and it still doesnt start without the key in the ignition. Now I can get the car to remote start with the key in the ignition though. (THe key is in the ignition and turned twice for the dash lights to light up and power to everything) Im going to try to work with it a bit more and see if I can figure it out. I think the distributor only gets power when the key is in the on position. So I think im going to run a relay to the distributor with constant power to the distributor when the remote start is on and see if that will work. |
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Ok so far If I hook up the distributor wire to constant power the car will run non stop untill I unplug the wire. I need help finding a way to wire up the remote start to give power to the relay... to power the distributor when the remote start is activated. I would also need to be able to still use the key start method.
This is very confusing. Can someone who has any info on Remote Start car alarms help me out on how Remote Starts are done please. My dad and I have tried many different wiring methods and still cant figure anything out. |
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Now I just gotta try to figure out how I am going to get the window rolling-up out-put (-) to work.
My window switch has 6 wires going to it. One is Pink- 12v when ignition is on. One is Black- Which is a ground. One is a Blue-Brown Which is driver window unroll One is a Blue- Which is driver window roll-up. One is a Tan- Which is passanger window unroll. One is Blue/White- Which is passanger window roll-up. I also have an electric trunk opener that is self grounded. I think I might have to switch it out for a trunk popper with a ground cable so I can attach the ground cable to the alarm module to pop the trunk open. Is there a way to relay the positive on the trunk opener to pop when I hit the switch on the remote which is a -. Thanks for the help. If anyone could give me wiring ideas for the rest id appreciate it. Thanks, Chris |
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