Hi
Wonder if anyone can help have a 1989 camaro which I am doing up but have a big problem she starts and drives great for about 20 mile then when I pull up the engine struggles to tick over try to rev up but its as if she not getting fuel have tried new filter new plugs rota and cap all codes are fine.
If I sit there for a few minutes she will re/start and rev but then after a few minutes will do it again if I get her home and leave overnight she will again do about 15/20 miles then play up can anybody help don't know where to go next? oh also have tried new coil!

Try a pressure regulator on the fuel rail.

Just got an 87 IROC with the TPI motor,the guy was telling me the regulator was bad and it was doing the same thing as what you described.They replaced the reg. and it worked fine. Until the ECM crashed on it.Guess that is why we only gave $350.00 for it.

Check your fuel tank cap--make sure the vent isn't restricted. Even tho its a closed loop system--the tank still needs to vent.

could be fuel pump puking out.... seen them do just exactly that.

ah tpi
i have had problems with the regulator and ignition modules.
my old firebird would miss after about 2hrs driving i replaced the module and it was fine...
lots of things could be wrong with a 3rd gen f body

Have your ignition module tested. Have them test is 12+ times to get it nice and hot and see how it holds up.

Look for any coorilation other than time as to when it starts to fail (especially temperature). Does it do it at any throttle position? You could really use a scanner to help determine what the cause is. Almost a MUST for diagnosing FI problems.

Or if you have a laptop you can buy a cable that will plug your OBD1 into the laptop. Then all you need is a software program which is free .

__________________
1997 BMW M3 - 3.2litre Inline 6 cylinder

understatement of the year

i hate my 92 Camaro

but I love it so much

lol

I'd be looking for other variables that aren't so "variable" like someone else said... Engine temp for one... The temperature gauges on these cars are crappy as all hell too, and rarely ever read closer than 15 or 20 degree's off from what it really is.

Not hardly working at all is the more common case.

Could be ECU, but I'm betting it's the fuel pump like someone else said. Sounds like it's burning out... Which is why it lasts awhile when the car hasn't been ran for awhile. You can let it "rest" so the heat dissipates and it will work for awhile, but once it heats up it just dies...

The power window motor on my passenger side does that exact same thing. lol

Greetings – I’m new to the forum, but been around Street Roding for a while. Sort of...

Sorry to highjack this thread, but I figured it already has knowledgeable people reading it.

I also have an issue with an ’89 IROC 350 TPI in a 37 Ford. About 8 years ago I had salvaged an ’89 IROC 350 TPI, rebuilt it, and rewired in a new ’91 ECU to eliminate the MAF to replace it with a MAP sensor (no room for MAF). I installed an upgraded cam and had Fuel Injector Specialists (FIS) provide a new PROM to match the characteristics to the Cam, 37 Ford, rear end, etc. I also had FIS clean the injectors while I was at it (and polish the TPI runners.) I also installed an adjustable fuel regulator on the fuel rail as well. I successfully got everything up and running pretty nicely. But here is where the problem comes into play...

In 1997 my whole life changed (went back to school, had two kids, moved 1000 miles south) and the vehicle has been sitting untouched (with the same old gasoline) for the past eight years. Now my kids are interested in getting the old car running. As you can imagine the gas had seen better days. I emptied the gas tank and purged out the fuel lines with air. I then put fuel injector cleaner and then alcohol (Heet) in the fuel line and blew this through the fuel lines thinking it may remove some of the varnish in the lines and possibly the injectors as well. I then added fresh gas with more cleaner/Heet to the fuel tank, changed the oil, and tried to fire up the old beast again. But unfortunately it would not start. I had cranked it for a good 10 minutes to no avail. I connected a fuel pressure gauge to the fuel rail and confirmed the pump and regulator were working to the specified pressure, however when I smell the exhaust pipes, there is not a sign of gasoline.

In hind sight, I am concerned that the relatively viscous fuel injector cleaner may be to thick to push through the injectors or possibly the injectors have completely gummed up after sitting for 8 years. As the electrical system had worked fine previous and has been untouched for 8 years, I am assuming everything should be fine in that department. Any ideas on where to begin?

I dread the thought of having to tear down the TPI runners, throttle body, etc. to get to the fuel rails/injectors – I may even have to remove the front end and radiator as everything is so tight in the 37. I never invested in the cable/software for a laptop to monitor the stock computer as I figured the money may be better spent on an aftermarket computer. Where is the best place to get these?

If I only had started it periodically and changed the gas/oil more frequently...

Regards,
JAR37FORD

Well the first thing I'd do would be to get a noid light at your local auto parts store. They plug into one of the injector harnesses and it will flash every time the signal is sent for the injector to fire. This will determine if the injectors are even firing.

Just for safe measure, verify you have spark as well. You just need air, fuel, spark, and the right timing. Air is kind of a given lol, now you just need to verify the other three main components.

__________________
1997 BMW M3 - 3.2litre Inline 6 cylinder

If yours is any thing like mine your fuel lines run under the alternator and and i was getting vapor lock and was doing the same thing. So check if alternator is getting hot and if so try to insulate the fuel lines.