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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 01-10-2012, 07:35 AM
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seeing this post reminded me of this atricle I read..
http://www.theturboforums.com/smf/the-builds-board-hall-of-fame-builds/how-long-till-it-grenades-(-it-never-did!-go-figure-)-grenade-part-2-to-come/
http://www.carcraft.com/featuredvehi.../photo_04.html
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TMTBh...RmFU3iLModgQgd
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9yFkm...RmFU3iLModgQgd

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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 01-11-2012, 04:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zildjian4life218
How much boost pressure were you running? how are you tuning your air fuel ratios with those cast pistons? I have the same setup in an s10 and I think i wanna keep it in the 11s underboost to help save the pistons
right now im setup for about 10 psi with plans to up the boost well into the 20+ psi range

the pistons dont care how much boost u run, what they do care about is detonation and having the proper top ring gap. set the top ring gap right and keep it from detonating and it will live a long time

ive been keeping my afr around 11.8-12.0-1 for now but ill slowlly bring it to around 12.5-1
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  #33 (permalink)  
Old 01-11-2012, 02:19 PM
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Have you been Here? might help www.thirdgen.org www.moates.net www.dynamicefi.com
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  #34 (permalink)  
Old 01-11-2012, 03:14 PM
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im a member of tgo and ive messed around with tunning the stock ecms.
i wouldnt recomend trying to tune a stock ecm on a turbo motor to somone if its there first time.
i would pick a megasquirt unit over a stock ecm on a boosted motor for somone new to tunning, the ms just makes it so easy to tune
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  #35 (permalink)  
Old 01-14-2012, 09:51 AM
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I really like your build....it takes me back about 7 years to my first turbo build.

A couple of things I see that are going to get you. First, factory rods and pistons are just not going to take you to 1000HP. I have seen 600HP engines live a while at boost, but that is a whole new arena at 1000. It almost looked like you are running cast? You are right about the top ring needing to be wide enough not to bind because it will see alot of heat, but what about the pistons? They get it first....

Also, the block. 1000HP will split the block in half....seriously. It will crack from the main webs up to through the cam bearings and through the lifter galley. It will do that in time at 600HP. 1000HP will accelerate this process.

Another issue is the trans and diff; both will shell at 600HP unless you have really beefed them and 1000HP might actually blow them into pieces if you figure out a way to get traction.

Keeping RPM down will help all of the engine issues, but I think you need to get it running and enjoy it at around 10-12psi and leave it be. My guess is that you will have plenty of things to fix just running at that level.

I dont want to sound like a downer, but I just want you to be realistic.
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  #36 (permalink)  
Old 01-14-2012, 05:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TurboS10
I really like your build....it takes me back about 7 years to my first turbo build.

A couple of things I see that are going to get you. First, factory rods and pistons are just not going to take you to 1000HP. I have seen 600HP engines live a while at boost, but that is a whole new arena at 1000. It almost looked like you are running cast? You are right about the top ring needing to be wide enough not to bind because it will see alot of heat, but what about the pistons? They get it first....

Also, the block. 1000HP will split the block in half....seriously. It will crack from the main webs up to through the cam bearings and through the lifter galley. It will do that in time at 600HP. 1000HP will accelerate this process.

Another issue is the trans and diff; both will shell at 600HP unless you have really beefed them and 1000HP might actually blow them into pieces if you figure out a way to get traction.

Keeping RPM down will help all of the engine issues, but I think you need to get it running and enjoy it at around 10-12psi and leave it be. My guess is that you will have plenty of things to fix just running at that level.

I dont want to sound like a downer, but I just want you to be realistic.
transmission is already down due to a broken sprag grrr so thats comming out this weekend.

not on cast pistons, i have a set of speedpro forged slugs in the engine now along with a set of handpicked factory rods that have been resized shot peened stress relived and good arp rod bolts.

the only thing i regret not doing was pulling the motor and having it linebored and main studs installed.

if u check out the gernade thread thats posted above marty ran a bone stock 350 with 23 psi and a 75 shot of nitrous, the motor outlived everythign else in the car including the th400 transmission, dyno results on that car put that thing in the 850whp range,dont recall the exact numbers but 850 is close, and that was done with a completly stock shortblock toped off with small valve truck heads(later swaped to camel hump heads) and tpi intake.
cars currently sitting in his backyard with a busted th400,motors still good though

edit
also forgot he used a 2bolt block

Last edited by Project89; 01-14-2012 at 05:49 PM.
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  #37 (permalink)  
Old 01-15-2012, 10:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Project89
cars currently sitting in his backyard with a busted th400,motors still good though
I contacted mark a couple months ago for some timing suggestions and he was telling me about this. I almost wanna get him a trans so he make some other people's jaws drop. If your a member of the turbo forums that link i posted has pics of him cleaning the engine with a garden hose and a bottle of degreaser LMFAO!
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  #38 (permalink)  
Old 01-17-2012, 10:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zildjian4life218
I contacted mark a couple months ago for some timing suggestions and he was telling me about this. I almost wanna get him a trans so he make some other people's jaws drop. If your a member of the turbo forums that link i posted has pics of him cleaning the engine with a garden hose and a bottle of degreaser LMFAO!
the cam in the motor also came out of somone garbage can as well, he sprayed it off wiped it down and stuck it in the motor.

the whole reaosn that build ever happened was he got tierd of paying big bucks for fully preped motors that kept blowing up.

i mean hell why not take out a jy motor who cares another one is only 2-300 bucks.even if it only last 1 year at a time how many 2-300 $ motors can u buy before u equal the cost of a single full forged motor with good heads
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  #39 (permalink)  
Old 09-21-2012, 05:27 PM
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anymore videos ? Looking at this same set up for my 88 iroc
as far as building junk yard motors i have had some of the most fun building them cheap and blowing the doors off guys with 3000$ motors
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  #40 (permalink)  
Old 10-20-2012, 02:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Ruthlessmr View Post
anymore videos ? Looking at this same set up for my 88 iroc
as far as building junk yard motors i have had some of the most fun building them cheap and blowing the doors off guys with 3000$ motors
theres a few mor eof martys black transam floating around on youtube, and ill have some new videos of my car up soon, i just got done reinstalling another stock 700r4 since the 4l80 i installed started to slip in 2nd
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  #41 (permalink)  
Old 10-20-2012, 10:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TurboS10 View Post
I really like your build....it takes me back about 7 years to my first turbo build.

A couple of things I see that are going to get you. First, factory rods and pistons are just not going to take you to 1000HP. I have seen 600HP engines live a while at boost, but that is a whole new arena at 1000. It almost looked like you are running cast? You are right about the top ring needing to be wide enough not to bind because it will see alot of heat, but what about the pistons? They get it first....

Also, the block. 1000HP will split the block in half....seriously. It will crack from the main webs up to through the cam bearings and through the lifter galley. It will do that in time at 600HP. 1000HP will accelerate this process.

Another issue is the trans and diff; both will shell at 600HP unless you have really beefed them and 1000HP might actually blow them into pieces if you figure out a way to get traction.

Keeping RPM down will help all of the engine issues, but I think you need to get it running and enjoy it at around 10-12psi and leave it be. My guess is that you will have plenty of things to fix just running at that level.

I dont want to sound like a downer, but I just want you to be realistic.
This is dead on correct. You will not run stock rods at 1000hp. they will snap and trash your block. I read your story about the junk yard block. My friends nova tossed a rod out the block at 4k rpm on the street with a stock motor.

I have seen a bunch of ppl build big motors with stock parts they run good on the street then they go to the track with slicks, the first time the car sticks and plants 600+ hp it will scatter the block and/or everyhting else behind it. Even cheap H beam rods will fold up at 1000 hp unless they are the top of the line stuff.

n2o is not needed. it will spool right away with the fuel tuned in right. I would save the money you are spending on a two stage nos kit and buy better rods.

The car is going to freakin fly anyway. Its one bad arse ride glad to see it. You wont need more boost or nos to get moving. Your biggest problem will be traction off the pad.
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  #42 (permalink)  
Old 10-20-2012, 10:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Project89 View Post
theres a few mor eof martys black transam floating around on youtube, and ill have some new videos of my car up soon, i just got done reinstalling another stock 700r4 since the 4l80 i installed started to slip in 2nd
how long are the 700s lasting?
I just started to build my 4l80e holy piss lots of expensive parts thanks
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  #43 (permalink)  
Old 10-20-2012, 10:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Ruthlessmr View Post
how long are the 700s lasting?
I just started to build my 4l80e holy piss lots of expensive parts thanks
@15 psi i can toast the stock 700 in 1-2 wot pulls on the street it just burns up the clutches. the biggest problem is is that with turbos or even a super charger u can make massive power at part throttle, and at part throttle the line presure is low so the clutches slip.
a constant presure valve body will cure this, along with other good parts but its still a gamble if the 700r4 will die or not.

the 4l80 i had in the car was just a stock unit with a full manual valve body i have it out now for a good rebuild, for whatever reason second gear decided to start slipping so i pulled it out before i did any real damage to it.

for now im babying the car around town with the 700r4 till i get the 4l80 back in

i run a 700r4 behind my turbocharged 3.1L v6 that engine makes 336rwhp and 440rwtq numbers @9psi,with the tci super street fighter rebuild kits,and a 4,500 stall converter i get about 2-3 months out of the trans before it needs a rebuild . a full stock 700r4 behind this motor will last 1 month if i take the car to the dragstrip every weekend
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  #44 (permalink)  
Old 10-20-2012, 11:05 AM
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Originally Posted by hcompton View Post
n2o is not needed. it will spool right away with the fuel tuned in right. I would save the money you are spending on a two stage nos kit and buy better rods.

The car is going to freakin fly anyway. Its one bad arse ride glad to see it. You wont need more boost or nos to get moving. Your biggest problem will be traction off the pad.
the n2o isnt for getting the turbos spooled, its just there for extra power and air temp cooling

traction permiting stage 1 is a 25 shot out of the hole
stage 2 is a 75 shot in high gear only

ill deff need the 2nd stage on the car to get the thing into the low 9's with this engines current combination of tpi intake and crappy heads

as far as the rods meh if they go they go, i shouldnt have said 100hp im going to push it just hard enough to go very low 9's like martys transam

im currently building a 434 ci sbc with afr 227 heads and twin gt3582(61mm) or twin 66mm turbos, that will replace this current engine sometime next year , this engine is were all the money is being spent
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  #45 (permalink)  
Old 10-20-2012, 11:55 AM
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if you are at all serious about making 1000 horsepower with only a 355 and cast iron heads @ 9.2:1 compression you need to reevaluate your expectations or find a happy dyno.

First off...

Stock pink rods (what you have) will not hold 1000 horse... They wont.
If you want a good cheaper replacement that will hold a WELL TUNED 1000hp... get the scat ICR 7/16's rods. They hold up in 800 hp sprint car motors fine.

Next..

Block wont hold 1000hp. You will move the main caps and trash bearings. Also... It will crack eventually.
I would upgrade to a dart SHP at a mininum... Iron eagle preferably.

Third...

Those heads are going to heat soak and detonate at boost levels that make 1000hp.
Solution... AFR210 CNC eliminators or something similar.


I understand this is a budget build... but cubes really would have helped in this build.

To make a 1000 pump gas horsepower reliably you need something like the following:

Dart SHP... 4.125" bore
3.750" Scat 4340
5.85 Scat ICR 7/16" or H beams
Good Forged pistons... no less than 1/16 1/16 1/8 package. Youll also need plenty plenty of ring gap (.024 and .026 will do).
Good aluminum heads... AFR's are nice for boost due to thier thick deck.
Also a nice hyd or solid roller with plenty of valve spring (lots of guys go heavy on boost and never up the valve seat pressure. Good way to trash a valve when it burns up a seat).

That would last a long time.


There are lots of combo's to make 1000hp. A 355, 882 Headed, stock rodded sbc aint it.
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