1989 chevy camaro 355 twin turbos, nitrous,megasquirt ems - Page 4 - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
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  #46 (permalink)  
Old 10-20-2012, 12:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by loudandproud View Post
if you are at all serious about making 1000 horsepower with only a 355 and cast iron heads @ 9.2:1 compression you need to reevaluate your expectations or find a happy dyno.

First off...

Stock pink rods (what you have) will not hold 1000 horse... They wont.
If you want a good cheaper replacement that will hold a WELL TUNED 1000hp... get the scat ICR 7/16's rods. They hold up in 800 hp sprint car motors fine.

Next..

Block wont hold 1000hp. You will move the main caps and trash bearings. Also... It will crack eventually.
I would upgrade to a dart SHP at a mininum... Iron eagle preferably.

Third...

Those heads are going to heat soak and detonate at boost levels that make 1000hp.
Solution... AFR210 CNC eliminators or something similar.


I understand this is a budget build... but cubes really would have helped in this build.

To make a 1000 pump gas horsepower reliably you need something like the following:

Dart SHP... 4.125" bore
3.750" Scat 4340
5.85 Scat ICR 7/16" or H beams
Good Forged pistons... no less than 1/16 1/16 1/8 package. Youll also need plenty plenty of ring gap (.024 and .026 will do).
Good aluminum heads... AFR's are nice for boost due to thier thick deck.
Also a nice hyd or solid roller with plenty of valve spring (lots of guys go heavy on boost and never up the valve seat pressure. Good way to trash a valve when it burns up a seat).

That would last a long time.


There are lots of combo's to make 1000hp. A 355, 882 Headed, stock rodded sbc aint it.
like i mentioned in my previous post i shouldnt have tossed around the 1000hp number, need just enough to put the car in the mid to low 9's
it is a budget build but like i already mentioned i have a dart block going with a 434ci build with afr 227's that will eventually make its way into the car.

whats in the car now will do just fine, martys 2 bolt block started moving the mains around at around 650-700 hp additional tq on the main fasteners solved that he had no main walk when he was at 850rwhp and that was a 2 bolt block.

my 4 bolt block will do just fine at those power levels,cracking it may be of some concern but with a 5,500 rpm limit on this engine it should be ok

rods who knows how long they will last,im pretty sure ill bend the hell out of them but who cares its a 400$ engine

the heads yeah they suck, still better then what has been used before to go low 9's nitrous and methanol solve the heat issues

i do have forged pistons in the engine and nexto my fuel injectors are the most expsensive thing in the entire engine and even at that take injectors off the engine and im only in it for around 400 bucks.
if the engine lets loose no big deal the 434 sb goes in its place, if it holds up till i get the 434 done then ill pull the engine and drop it in in an s10 pickup with a single gt45 turbo and keep it at around 12 psi to keep it alive for a good long time

the whole point of this engine is to just have some fun and go fast for cheap, it dont have to survive for years, nor was it ever planned this thing will survive a long time

edit agree on the valve springs i do see alot of ppl build some boosted engines and they never touch the springs, hell even my turboed v6 motors has good springs on it 145#'s on the seat and 387#'s at max lift

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Last edited by Project89; 10-20-2012 at 12:23 PM.
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  #47 (permalink)  
Old 10-20-2012, 07:13 PM
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Well in that case more power to yeah... throw a 200 shot at it too then.

I didn't read the whole thread... wasn't trying to be critical. Just didn't want you to scatter it if it was your pride ans joy.

I always wanted to get a 496 vortec junk yard motor and spray a 2 stage 400 shot at it.
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  #48 (permalink)  
Old 10-20-2012, 07:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by loudandproud View Post
Well in that case more power to yeah... throw a 200 shot at it too then.

I didn't read the whole thread... wasn't trying to be critical. Just didn't want you to scatter it if it was your pride ans joy.

I always wanted to get a 496 vortec junk yard motor and spray a 2 stage 400 shot at it.
yeah its all good, its not something i care a whole lot about, now the real engine for the car thats a different story.

75 shot of nitrous is prolly as far as im willing to push it, i know marty with the black transam thats linked to in this thread was hitting his with 100 shot and i think at one time he hit it with 125 or 150 and it didnt hurt it but im not that brave lol
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  #49 (permalink)  
Old 10-21-2012, 09:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Project89 View Post
yeah its all good, its not something i care a whole lot about, now the real engine for the car thats a different story.

75 shot of nitrous is prolly as far as im willing to push it, i know marty with the black transam thats linked to in this thread was hitting his with 100 shot and i think at one time he hit it with 125 or 150 and it didnt hurt it but im not that brave lol
Well here is what i am thinking a 75 shot will be next to nothing on a 600+ hp engine. But if something goes wrong it could smoke that engine faster than you can let your foot off the gas under full boost. If its not for spool up then i cant see it doing any real good that a good intercooler and meth injection wont accomplish with less risk to your setup. Also you cant really over size the intercooler you can buy a big one for you next engine and run it on this one.

if you want to hit the 9 second range you will have lots of suspension work to do to get the car off the line and down the track straight. Better tires and lighter wheels will make your car faster than 75 shot when your trying to hit the low 9 high 8 second range. Now if you had said a 200/400 shot well then i would say "Spray Away". I have actually never seen a two stage kit setup to run in that low a flow settings. most are direct manifold and have bigger jets 2 kits hooked to gether and you got twice the chance of failure.
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  #50 (permalink)  
Old 10-21-2012, 08:57 PM
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Originally Posted by hcompton View Post
Well here is what i am thinking a 75 shot will be next to nothing on a 600+ hp engine. But if something goes wrong it could smoke that engine faster than you can let your foot off the gas under full boost. If its not for spool up then i cant see it doing any real good that a good intercooler and meth injection wont accomplish with less risk to your setup. Also you cant really over size the intercooler you can buy a big one for you next engine and run it on this one.

if you want to hit the 9 second range you will have lots of suspension work to do to get the car off the line and down the track straight. Better tires and lighter wheels will make your car faster than 75 shot when your trying to hit the low 9 high 8 second range. Now if you had said a 200/400 shot well then i would say "Spray Away". I have actually never seen a two stage kit setup to run in that low a flow settings. most are direct manifold and have bigger jets 2 kits hooked to gether and you got twice the chance of failure.
ive already got a massive 32x12x4 air to air inter cooler the nitrous will act bigger then a 75 shot always does on a blown motor due to the extra cooling, meth injection is only there to make this live on pump gas as the n20 will have better cooling properties then the meth.

its not a real 2 stage kit, its basically 2 single nozzle wet nozzles with my ecm controlling each 25/35 hp jet in one nozzle and 75/100 in the second nozzle i do have a few safteys in place afr monitoring built into the ecm,fp saftey switch and same with oil presure. wont rely on afr monitoring though as at full boost + n2o and some rpm afr readings will lag behind slightly so ill slowly step up the nitrous


i think it will be hard to get low 9's with out the added hp from the nitrous shot at this altitude

suspension is handled in the rear of the car not to keen on switching to 90/10 front struts and drag springs in the front just yet its still a street car that gets driven around alot

only thing im changing for sure suspension wise is the bolt/wled in fram connectors are comming out and im going with a threw the floor setup with inner and outter connectors as im already getting the dreaded cracks in the roof behind the windows
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  #51 (permalink)  
Old 10-22-2012, 07:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Project89 View Post
ive already got a massive 32x12x4 air to air inter cooler the nitrous will act bigger then a 75 shot always does on a blown motor due to the extra cooling, meth injection is only there to make this live on pump gas as the n20 will have better cooling properties then the meth.

its not a real 2 stage kit, its basically 2 single nozzle wet nozzles with my ecm controlling each 25/35 hp jet in one nozzle and 75/100 in the second nozzle i do have a few safteys in place afr monitoring built into the ecm,fp saftey switch and same with oil presure. wont rely on afr monitoring though as at full boost + n2o and some rpm afr readings will lag behind slightly so ill slowly step up the nitrous


i think it will be hard to get low 9's with out the added hp from the nitrous shot at this altitude

suspension is handled in the rear of the car not to keen on switching to 90/10 front struts and drag springs in the front just yet its still a street car that gets driven around alot

only thing im changing for sure suspension wise is the bolt/wled in fram connectors are comming out and im going with a threw the floor setup with inner and outter connectors as im already getting the dreaded cracks in the roof behind the windows
Not trying to tell you how to do things just having some conversation, car looks great. I have a 30x12x3 on my civic just because I could not get anything bigger and still fit under the low hood. Your car i would start with a powerstroke sized intercooler and move up from there. The one you have is too small because its not dragging on the ground and hitting the top of the hood. LOL

Two the same size may work.

Most cars running low 9's are back halfed with tub chassis and ford style 9 inch rear. Yes you can do it with mods but usally its easier to just tube the car. Also your roll cage will need something to weld onto. Low 9's is a lot of new saftey equipment. Must have a full cage or your first 9 second pass will be the last at that track. Until your cage has NHRA cert.

Might as well toss in a 9 inch or at least a c clip kit. Once the cage is built you will have installed the sub frame connectors as part of the cage i would not put them in now. You will be cutting them out to install the role cage. unless your running in rules based racing you will be replacing everything behind the trans before you hit the 9 second mark. I am not sure how well a 12 bolt will do if running 600hp. I hope the 10 bolt is long gone it will fail and cost more to make right then a fully built shortened 9 inch with four link setup. That will run the number.

Here is a link for the general types of cages.
NHRA - Rules & Regulations, Class & Time Brackets - Hot Rod
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  #52 (permalink)  
Old 10-22-2012, 05:01 PM
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Originally Posted by hcompton View Post
Not trying to tell you how to do things just having some conversation, car looks great. I have a 30x12x3 on my civic just because I could not get anything bigger and still fit under the low hood. Your car i would start with a powerstroke sized intercooler and move up from there. The one you have is too small because its not dragging on the ground and hitting the top of the hood. LOL

Two the same size may work.

Most cars running low 9's are back halfed with tub chassis and ford style 9 inch rear. Yes you can do it with mods but usally its easier to just tube the car. Also your roll cage will need something to weld onto. Low 9's is a lot of new saftey equipment. Must have a full cage or your first 9 second pass will be the last at that track. Until your cage has NHRA cert.

Might as well toss in a 9 inch or at least a c clip kit. Once the cage is built you will have installed the sub frame connectors as part of the cage i would not put them in now. You will be cutting them out to install the role cage. unless your running in rules based racing you will be replacing everything behind the trans before you hit the 9 second mark. I am not sure how well a 12 bolt will do if running 600hp. I hope the 10 bolt is long gone it will fail and cost more to make right then a fully built shortened 9 inch with four link setup. That will run the number.

Here is a link for the general types of cages.
NHRA - Rules & Regulations, Class & Time Brackets - Hot Rod
power stroke core wont fit unfortunatly.i may however when the new engine goes in switch to a air 2 water intercooler i havent decided yet though, have to see how well the air 2 air core works first.


i skipped the 12 bolt or the 9 inch and went right to a dana 60
cage does not need to be welded to the frame conectors to be legal on a unibody car, just have to have steel plates welded down to the body for the cage to be welded onto


class rules say i cannot backhalf the car plenty of f-bodys with stock style suspensions in the 7-8-9's

suspension wise im setup with offset single adjustable control arms, lower control arm relocation brackets , tubular panhard bar , and 3 way adjustable rear shocks. my last purchase for suspension in the rear will prolly be a short tq arm setup from bmr.

need to play with the full sized tq arm first since the shorter arm will hit the tires harder

pretty much the exact setup a fellow board member runs with drag radials
Twin turbo camaro at MIR goes 9.86 at 139 - YouTube
"> Twin turbo camaro at MIR goes 9.86 at 139 - YouTube
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  #53 (permalink)  
Old 11-05-2012, 10:26 PM
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update

ms1 cpu got here today , i unsoldered my stepper iac mods and had to redo my ignition control mods since the ms1 wont do stepper iac , and has a diff ignition system layout.

but the unit is ready to go

i am setup now with dual table use so i now have 2x 12x12 tables for fuel and ignition versus my 16x16 tables in ms2 so i have alot more tunning reslution now.

i have the tables setup to switch based on map sensor values my first table covers idle to around 12 psi , then it kicks over to my second table which is 13psi to 22 psi so i have lots of tunning points in high boost

unfortunatly my car is locked in my friends barn and he is in vegas till friday so when he gets back friday im going to get the ecm back in the car and hopefuly get to drive it around and get some videosdepending if i get to it before it gets dark.
dam headlight switch is not working so the car dont have headlights right now hopefully its just some bad wiring that the previous owner did that i can fix easily as ill be able to fix that on the spot, not so much if i need a new light switch


when the car does come apart for the good build i am going to replace the wiring in the entire car while im at it since the po really screwed it up
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