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coil test
TESTING
Remove the ignition coil(s). Using an ohmmeter, check the resistance between the primary terminals on the underside of the coil. The resistance should be 0.50-0.90 ohms. Check the resistance between the secondary terminals. It should be 5,000-8,000 ohms. If the coil failed either test, replace the coil. |
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coil pack
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
3.8L (VIN 3) Engine Disconnect the negative battery cable. Tag and disconnect the spark plug wires. Unfasten the ignition coil(s) attaching bolts, then remove the ignition coil from the module. To install: Install the coil(s) and attaching bolts. Connect the spark plug wires. Connect the negative battery cable. 3.8L (VIN C) Engine See Figures 1, 2, 3 and 4 Disconnect the negative battery cable. Tag and disconnect the spark plug wires. Fig. 1: Labeling the wires before disconnecting them from the coil helps assure correct reconnection Fig. 2: After removing the wires, you can see the 5 Torx® retaining screws Remove the 5 retaining screws, or Torx® screws, as applicable, securing the coil to the ignition module. Fig. 3: Unfasten the mounting screws, then lift the coil up from the ignition module and label the connectors Tilt the coil assembly back and unplug the coil-to-module connectors. Fig. 4: After unplugging the connectors, you can remove the ignition coil pack from the module Remove the coil assembly. Although the 3.8L engine's Type I coil pack will physically fit, the position of the number 1 coil, as noted on the coil pack, is in a different location; coil towers No. 1 and 4 on the 3800 engine are closest to the module connector. To install: Fit the coil assembly into position and attach the connectors. Install the retaining screws, or Torx® screws, as applicable, and tighten to 26 inch lbs. (3 Nm). Connect the spark plug wires, as tagged during removal. Reconnect the negative battery cable. 3.8L (VIN L, 1 and K) Engine See Figures 5 and 6 Disconnect the negative battery cable. Tag and disconnect the spark plug wires. Remove the 2 retaining screws securing the coil to the ignition module. Remove the coil assembly. Fig. 5: In 1992, there were 2 different ignition coils used: a Type I, as shown here ... Fig. 6: ... and a Type II, shown here. Later model vehicles use the Type II To install: Fit the coil assembly to the ignition module. Install the retaining screws and tighten them to 40 inch lbs. (4-5 Nm). Attach the spark plug wires, as tagged during removal. Reconnect the negative battery cable. The material provided in the Repair Guides is under license from Delmar Publishers. Any part of these publications may not be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, storage in an information retrieval system, or otherwise, without the Written Permission of the publisher. Any unauthorized commercial use, resale or mailing list database development, utilization or application is also prohibited. © 2001-2006 AutoZone, Inc. All Rights Reserved. |
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interesting...........thats what I needed the ohm value and how to do it......thanks again................I wonder if autozone would test it for me too...........I have the old one which REALLY does missfire under a revv, and the junkyard one that seems to work.....I had alternators tested at one of the local zones and they said it was bad.....so I had them test one right out of the box.........and the machine told them it was bad too!!!!!
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Fumplet,
You will never get this thing fixed, unless you stop jumping from possible cause to possible cause. The last thread you said the vibration would go away by unlocking the lock up converter, now you are onto the coil packs. What gives??? If you find a problem, you must fix that first before trying to find other causes. If not you are just chasing your tail. Steve |
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oh yes I know........this thread was posted a while ago.....wont really do anything other than casually check things........wouldnt hurt to check coil pack just to see.................still waiting for money to replace struts
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Quote:
Steve |
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