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Quote:
The first step is to eliminate the Mechanical aspect of the window regulators and seals. Remove the door panels and clean and renew the regulator Grease, and Oil or grease any fittings you may find on the motor assembly's. Next if the seals are rubber, use a rubber renewing chemical to soften them up..Armorall or even small amounts of ATF will work fine to achieve this..Don't go wild that stuff is murder to get off glass.. Then inspect to be sure the window fits squarely in the frame and is not tilting or "Sagging " on one side on the upshot. If this is the case, replace the Teflon/plastic bushings & Hardware and inspect again. If it is all good..Electrical is the next step. IF you have a Master Control relay, sub it with another, the contacts may be burned or pitted..If good, clean and inspect the switches. If that is good, Check the wire feeding power for the Window circuit for loose, or bad condition..If found repair / Clean as needed. Last check the draw on the motors at the regulators, they may be old and worn / Wearing out, and require a renew. Doc
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Aftermarket Solutions Electronic & Electrical Innovations |
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I had an 88 Bonneville with the same problem (same car-different badge)
As this car had been thru 2 girlfriends and 3 teen daughters by the time I had to replace the plastic chain driving the windows a second time, (swore I would NEVER take the door apart again) I actually bought a door from a 88 old 88 to fix a window issue. When THAT window slowed down my best cover up was a can of silicone-- Sprayed the window tracks frequently---WD-40 in a pinch. Hated that car---Too many doors---but it took a hell of a beating over the years. The only real issue it gave me was an alternator spike---toasted absolutely every accessory that was on at the time of the spike--killed entire ignition system too--------that was easier to fix than that stupid window. 5 women and 250,000 miles-----may it rest in peace Bryan |
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