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-   -   1991 olds eighty eight royale eats right front brake pads (http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/1991-olds-eighty-eight-royale-eats-right-front-brake-pads-226210.html)

fumplet 11-17-2012 07:42 PM

1991 olds eighty eight royale eats right front brake pads
 
2nd time in a year the right front brake pads wore down to the rotor. Left or drivers side has 90% pad left. Just replaced pads again tonight. Caliper piston comressed with out issues and doesnt seem to be binding. The caliper is from autozone so yes the sliders should be good. Whats odd is not only does it eat pads in 6 months, the squealer pad doesnt squeal because the piston side pad wore more quickly right into the rotor. Also noted the piston wasnt square in its bore/pad wore at an angle. Car doesnt have abs but it has the type of master cylinder that has a brake line port for each wheel. Master cylinder is reman from advanceauto last year. Only thing I can think of is possably the right front brake line misinstalled into a rear port?? Trying to find a diagram of what each port goes to.

NEW INTERIORS 11-17-2012 07:45 PM

Did you check to see if the brakes are releasing.. Could be a bad hose not letting it release..

69 widetrack 11-17-2012 08:02 PM

Or check your calipers, if the passenger side caliper is sticking (the calipers have pistons that can stick if rusted, misaligned or bad seals), you can check the piston by taking a C clamp and try to push the piston in the caliper, if it doesn't go back fairly easily, it's time to replace them, replace both left and right calipers for even brake pressure in the future.

Hope this helps.
Ray

Denny 11-17-2012 08:03 PM

Yes, if those are old hoses, that is moat likely the problem. Since both the left and right apply and release together. I would recommend changing both hoses also. ;)

And yes. If the dust boots are torn, you may have rust or dirt inside.

fumplet 11-17-2012 08:35 PM

i originally replaced the calliper because I broke off the bleeder after replacing the master cylinder. Instaled new caliper and didnt check to see if it was releasing ok. Wife drove it to store and back. It got so hot it melted the hubcap off. Replaced with 2nd caliper. Seemed to work ok. Replaced hose with 2nd caliper. 6 months later it ate the pads on that side. If the caliper was good, then why did the pad wear unevenly. The piston was cocked off to one side. Then again, your not supposed to wear the caliper down to the pad rivets either. Once the c clamp squared the piston in its bore, it went in easy.

69 widetrack 11-17-2012 08:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fumplet (Post 1612507)
i originally replaced the calliper because I broke off the bleeder after replacing the master cylinder. Instaled new caliper and didnt check to see if it was releasing ok. Wife drove it to store and back. It got so hot it melted the hubcap off. Replaced with 2nd caliper. Seemed to work ok. Replaced hose with 2nd caliper. 6 months later it ate the pads on that side. If the caliper was good, then why did the pad wear unevenly. The piston was cocked off to one side. Then again, your not supposed to wear the caliper down to the pad rivets either. Once the c clamp squared the piston in its bore, it went in easy.

Did this start to happen right after you replaced the master cylinder? Do both sides of the pad wear out evenly? Is the caliper itself moving freely on it's mount? A caliper needs to be able to stay centered over the rotor as your pads wear to give even breaking...It's difficult to tell without looking at it but the path of caliper movement should be lubricated whenever servicing brakes...I can't say for sure but if it's the second caliper...look at where it's mounted and make sure it can move freely and stay centered over the rotor.

fumplet 11-17-2012 08:47 PM

wondering if Im dealing with ****ty autozone reman probably china crap calipers

69 widetrack 11-17-2012 09:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fumplet (Post 1612496)
2nd time in a year the right front brake pads wore down to the rotor. Left or drivers side has 90% pad left. Just replaced pads again tonight. Caliper piston comressed with out issues and doesnt seem to be binding. The caliper is from autozone so yes the sliders should be good. Whats odd is not only does it eat pads in 6 months, the squealer pad doesnt squeal because the piston side pad wore more quickly right into the rotor. Also noted the piston wasnt square in its bore/pad wore at an angle. Car doesnt have abs but it has the type of master cylinder that has a brake line port for each wheel. Master cylinder is reman from advanceauto last year. Only thing I can think of is possably the right front brake line misinstalled into a rear port?? Trying to find a diagram of what each port goes to.

It could be off shore calipers that are screwed but 2 in a row??? What about the remanufactured master cylinder, if it has a brake line port for each wheel it could be a bad master, that's why I asked if it happened right after the master was installed?

fumplet 11-17-2012 09:58 PM

Well, first off I guess I dont know if it did this right after the mastercylinder install. The master cylinder was replaced due to the brake light being on. Little did I know the e brake pedal was slightly depressed causing the light. 1st caliper was definetly bad, as the piston wouldnt move freely. I didnt know it was binding because it was a new caliper and all I had to do was throw on some pads.

69 widetrack 11-18-2012 06:22 AM

with the information I'm getting from you..I'd be leaning towards a master cylinder...did you bench bleed the master or bleed it on the car?

fumplet 11-18-2012 02:24 PM

on the car bled it.

LATECH 11-18-2012 03:37 PM

sticking or frozen sliders is what your problem is. The slider allows the caliper to "float" and apply pressure eqaully to both sides of the rotor.
Here is the test: pry the piston back into its bore. Then take hold of the caliper, see if you can slide it back and forth far enough to make one pad touch the rotor , then the other way to make the other pad touch the rotor. If it doesnt move by hand easy enough to do that, then the sliders are frozen.
Also...lubricating the pad contact points, you know, where the pad touches it mount before the rotor is put on, is critical.
I have had some pads that fit the caliper mount area too tight. I have ground a little off of each end to help keep them loose enough to move freely.
Your problem is not a hose, or cheap chink calipers, but lack of servicing the sliders and caliper mount areas. I see it almost everytime I get a car in that a DIY er has put on brake pads. Trust me.:evil:

fumplet 11-18-2012 03:42 PM

One thought? Even if the master is somehow bad, how could that cause the piston to be off square? what I dont know is how to make sure its not the master. Thinkin about goin over to advanceauto and gettin a caliper from them.

fumplet 11-18-2012 03:44 PM

I used castrol slider lubricant to install the caliper. Although I will try the test again to be sure.

MouseFink 11-19-2012 04:14 PM

Three months ago, the squeaker on the outboard pad of my RH floating front brake caliper began squeaking prematurely. I examined the pads and discovered uneven brake pad wear on the outboard pad of the RH caliper on my '91 S10 Blazer 4x4. I replaced the AC Delco ceramic pads with Bendix ceramic pads, replaced all the slider pins, and replaced all the o-rings in each of the calipers. The o-rings align the slider pins that the outboard caliper slides on as it compresses into the brake rotor. I also lubed the caliper contact points and o-rings with Permatex #20353 brake lube. I checked the pads yesterday, and I saw no sign of uneven brake pad wear after about 1,000 miles of stop and go driving.

If the o-rings in the calipers are dry, the outboard caliper and pad will not slide evenly and apply equal brake pressure to the rotor. The pad may wear on a taper and permit the squeaker to contact the rotor prematurely. Your rebuilt calipers should have new o-rings but they need to be lubed before the calipers are installed with the proper high temperature silicone lubricant.


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