1991 oldsmobile 88 eats battery after a week or so - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Electrical
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 07-22-2007, 12:50 AM
Member
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: canton, ohio
Posts: 278
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
1991 oldsmobile 88 eats battery after a week or so

Hello people I thought I had the battery draining problem solved but I guess not after the alternator replacement. Well after going out to start the car after over a week the battery was dead cold. I have checked to see the amperage draw and its 20 milliamps after 3 minutes of connecting the meter. Sooo thats not bad. So something must be turning on after an extended time. My idea is to hook up a small charger to the battery just enough to maintain it and a meter to see if the amperage goes up, but if I cant get the draw to increase the only thing to do is dissconnect accessories 1 at a time to see if that cures it.

    Advertisement
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 07-22-2007, 01:56 AM
Member
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: canton, ohio
Posts: 278
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
annnddd the possable culprits are, and yes I changed the battery (thought that was it). Radio, computer, ignition module, keyless entry module, audible door chime/headlight warning system, door switch or trunk switch fault,
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 07-23-2007, 03:31 PM
docvette's Avatar
Hotrodders.com Moderator
 
Last wiki edit: Rebuild an alternator Last photo:
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Lafayette, california
Age: 62
Posts: 7,362
Wiki Edits: 12

Thanks: 0
Thanked 6 Times in 3 Posts
Doc here,

Charge the battery on a HOME charger 6 to 10 hours, then have it load checked..

If the battery went flat 5 or 6 times , chances are it is useless..will not hold a charge longer than 2 or 3 spins of the starter.

If the cells are Shot , it will fall off very fast under load testing.

If the battery checks,

Suspects include, vanity mirror lamps, hood lamps , egress timers wired backward, (on delay instead of off delay) high power audio stuff incorrectly installed, aftermarket Ignitions not shutting off with the key, Horn relays stuck "On" with the horn wires pulled, Stuck power antennas, relays or solenoids not wired properly (hot at all times, as opposed to hot in run only coil wiring).


Doc
__________________
Aftermarket Solutions
Electronic & Electrical
Innovations
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 07-23-2007, 11:25 PM
jray's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: PineyWoods,Louisiana
Posts: 142
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by docvette
Doc here,


Suspects include, vanity mirror lamps,

Doc
Very good call on vanity lamps. My wifes 89 Mustang drove me nuts for a couple of months until I happened to walk by it one night when it was parked outside and saw the light on. Had to keep the visor pushed up very tight against the headliner or it would drain the battery in a couple of days.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 07-25-2007, 02:19 AM
Member
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: canton, ohio
Posts: 278
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
batterys new. only first time this thing was drained flat if I remember correctly and boy was it stone cold flat....already replaced alternator, dont think that could be it but who knows. old battery I still have, and I think thats good too...yea will have to check out all that stuff too. I forgot about the vanity mirrorsL lets see it has power windows, power locks with keyless remote that works half of the time by the remote. power antenna. not sure where the timer is for the interior lights...keyless module? I do know the passenger side front window and door lock switch doesnt work...possable short there?havnt looked yet. Radio that works but popps out speakers in rear.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #6 (permalink)  
Old 07-25-2007, 06:01 AM
docvette's Avatar
Hotrodders.com Moderator
 
Last wiki edit: Rebuild an alternator Last photo:
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Lafayette, california
Age: 62
Posts: 7,362
Wiki Edits: 12

Thanks: 0
Thanked 6 Times in 3 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by fumplet
batterys new. only first time this thing was drained flat if I remember correctly and boy was it stone cold flat....already replaced alternator, dont think that could be it but who knows. old battery I still have, and I think thats good too...yea will have to check out all that stuff too. I forgot about the vanity mirrorsL lets see it has power windows, power locks with keyless remote that works half of the time by the remote. power antenna. not sure where the timer is for the interior lights...keyless module? I do know the passenger side front window and door lock switch doesnt work...possable short there?havnt looked yet. Radio that works but popps out speakers in rear.

Doc here,

BECAUSE it's new, does not make it good...

WE had a guy on here, went through a whole RACK of battery's from NAPA, only to find out every one was defective...

ONCE you stone flatten a GOOD battery, you've already started it on a damage cycle.. A weak one MAY never recover..

Doc
__________________
Aftermarket Solutions
Electronic & Electrical
Innovations
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #7 (permalink)  
Old 07-25-2007, 01:58 PM
Member
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: canton, ohio
Posts: 278
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
yea i thought of that too.......had worked at a tire shop 4 years ago and they decided to put in a napa battery rack that had chargers on it......the mechanics laughed and I wonderd why.........somehow they knew the batteryss were crap....he was right, they were not sure if all of them were bad but yep..............new doesnt mean "new and tested" it just means new and possable sitting on the shelf 3 years hehehehee......I did a reasearch report in the 5th grade as to how the car battery works...but I didnt get into what destroys them...........I am also not sure if I can return the battery for a replacement..........somehow I doubt it will show up on a load test
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #8 (permalink)  
Old 07-25-2007, 02:00 PM
Member
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: canton, ohio
Posts: 278
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
as for the drain on the battery who knows. I will have to do an extended monitoring of the drain cause it doesnt show up when I test it initially. It only draws 20 milli amps. Only way I am gonna find this is hook up a charger to it so it doesnt kill battery, and check it every day while I drive other car( I have 5 cars heheheh
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #9 (permalink)  
Old 07-25-2007, 02:06 PM
Member
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: canton, ohio
Posts: 278
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
oh yea forgot to mention......the old owner said it did this to him to so he said drive it dont let it sit or it will kill the battery. only way to not kill battery is to un hook it
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #10 (permalink)  
Old 07-25-2007, 04:19 PM
docvette's Avatar
Hotrodders.com Moderator
 
Last wiki edit: Rebuild an alternator Last photo:
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Lafayette, california
Age: 62
Posts: 7,362
Wiki Edits: 12

Thanks: 0
Thanked 6 Times in 3 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by fumplet
yea i thought of that too.......had worked at a tire shop 4 years ago and they decided to put in a napa battery rack that had chargers on it......the mechanics laughed and I wonderd why.........somehow they knew the batteryss were crap....he was right, they were not sure if all of them were bad but yep..............new doesnt mean "new and tested" it just means new and possable sitting on the shelf 3 years hehehehee......I did a reasearch report in the 5th grade as to how the car battery works...but I didnt get into what destroys them...........I am also not sure if I can return the battery for a replacement..........somehow I doubt it will show up on a load test
Doc here,

What kills battery's is constantly running them low (cycling them) from charge to FLAT dead..Short story....

This causes the electrolyte to be "Sucked" into the negative plate and be retained, until a positive charge repels it out..back into the case and sluff box.

Each time you do this, it requires more current to "Blast" the electrolyte from the plate and back into the "System".. The more current, the hotter the plate..the hotter the plate the hotter the electrolyte..the hotter the electrolyte the more Hydrogen Sulfide Gas it makes, the less electrolyte there is to cover the cell structures..(low water)

Plus the "Blast" it takes from flat dead to get it to respond to a charge..blows the antimony off the plates (conductive coatings) and heats and buckles the cell plates..these crack and short the insulators, and short out individual cells..now your static charged 12 volt battery reads 10.5 volts..and so it goes..

From this junk , grows a substance from the sluff box, in a wire like growth that is conductive, Heads off towards the plates, referred as "Whisker Growth", these formations touch the plates and the bottom of the sluff box and electrolyte and short out that plate/cell..

Everytime you "Cycle" a battery, this process takes place..a STANDARD automotive battery can only survive about 30 cycles like this before it won't Even take a charge anymore..(on a brand new healthy one..on an older OR slightly Defective one Much less!)

Thats how you kill a battery..

Cycling occurs (begins) when you leave it on the drain for long periods of time until ALL the charge is gone.

Doc
__________________
Aftermarket Solutions
Electronic & Electrical
Innovations
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #11 (permalink)  
Old 07-25-2007, 04:23 PM
docvette's Avatar
Hotrodders.com Moderator
 
Last wiki edit: Rebuild an alternator Last photo:
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Lafayette, california
Age: 62
Posts: 7,362
Wiki Edits: 12

Thanks: 0
Thanked 6 Times in 3 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by fumplet
as for the drain on the battery who knows. I will have to do an extended monitoring of the drain cause it doesnt show up when I test it initially. It only draws 20 milli amps. Only way I am gonna find this is hook up a charger to it so it doesnt kill battery, and check it every day while I drive other car( I have 5 cars heheheh

Doc here,

Explain EXACTLY how you did your testing..step by step..

At 2 mills..you either are doing something wrong, skipping a step, or have a ghost in the machine...

so let's eliminate those first by your procedure for testing..


Doc
__________________
Aftermarket Solutions
Electronic & Electrical
Innovations
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #12 (permalink)  
Old 07-25-2007, 04:25 PM
docvette's Avatar
Hotrodders.com Moderator
 
Last wiki edit: Rebuild an alternator Last photo:
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Lafayette, california
Age: 62
Posts: 7,362
Wiki Edits: 12

Thanks: 0
Thanked 6 Times in 3 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by fumplet
oh yea forgot to mention......the old owner said it did this to him to so he said drive it dont let it sit or it will kill the battery. only way to not kill battery is to un hook it

Doc here,

Again, Explain step by step what you did to get a 2 mil reading..

usually the culprit is the regulator on the alternator reverse biasing.


Doc
__________________
Aftermarket Solutions
Electronic & Electrical
Innovations
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #13 (permalink)  
Old 07-26-2007, 01:49 AM
Member
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: canton, ohio
Posts: 278
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
wow so when I worked at the dealership they said 62 percent of gm batteries warrientied werent really bad....they said to crank up the charge to get the battery to work.....gm batterys were designed a little different and could handle the boost.............or were they just trying to shorten the life of the battery but get it working again and avoid warrenty claim
Quote:
Originally Posted by docvette
Doc here,

What kills battery's is constantly running them low (cycling them) from charge to FLAT dead..Short story....

This causes the electrolyte to be "Sucked" into the negative plate and be retained, until a positive charge repels it out..back into the case and sluff box.

Each time you do this, it requires more current to "Blast" the electrolyte from the plate and back into the "System".. The more current, the hotter the plate..the hotter the plate the hotter the electrolyte..the hotter the electrolyte the more Hydrogen Sulfide Gas it makes, the less electrolyte there is to cover the cell structures..(low water)

Plus the "Blast" it takes from flat dead to get it to respond to a charge..blows the antimony off the plates (conductive coatings) and heats and buckles the cell plates..these crack and short the insulators, and short out individual cells..now your static charged 12 volt battery reads 10.5 volts..and so it goes..

From this junk , grows a substance from the sluff box, in a wire like growth that is conductive, Heads off towards the plates, referred as "Whisker Growth", these formations touch the plates and the bottom of the sluff box and electrolyte and short out that plate/cell..

Everytime you "Cycle" a battery, this process takes place..a STANDARD automotive battery can only survive about 30 cycles like this before it won't Even take a charge anymore..(on a brand new healthy one..on an older OR slightly Defective one Much less!)

Thats how you kill a battery..

Cycling occurs (begins) when you leave it on the drain for long periods of time until ALL the charge is gone.

Doc
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #14 (permalink)  
Old 07-26-2007, 01:52 AM
Member
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: canton, ohio
Posts: 278
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by docvette
Doc here,

Again, Explain step by step what you did to get a 2 mil reading..

usually the culprit is the regulator on the alternator reverse biasing.


Doc
I unhooked the battery. Put a digital volt meter from radio shack in series wth the battery and the cable.........it would read 150 milli amps, and after a while like a minute (cant remember exact time) then jump down to like 15 milliamps
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #15 (permalink)  
Old 07-26-2007, 05:46 PM
docvette's Avatar
Hotrodders.com Moderator
 
Last wiki edit: Rebuild an alternator Last photo:
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Lafayette, california
Age: 62
Posts: 7,362
Wiki Edits: 12

Thanks: 0
Thanked 6 Times in 3 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by fumplet
I unhooked the battery. Put a digital volt meter from radio shack in series wth the battery and the cable.........it would read 150 milli amps, and after a while like a minute (cant remember exact time) then jump down to like 15 milliamps

Doc here,

Right set up..

Gotta be the Battery is shot..OR a Time delay relay.


Doc
__________________
Aftermarket Solutions
Electronic & Electrical
Innovations
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Electrical posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
1991 olds 88 heavy duty air conditioning fan polarity and position fumplet Electrical 3 08-30-2006 03:54 PM
1991 olds 88 front windows roll up very slowly fumplet Electrical 3 08-24-2006 02:10 PM
what kind of window track grease should I use for a 1991 olds 88 fumplet Interior 2 08-24-2006 11:29 AM
1991 olds 88 tentioner rides back and forth fumplet Engine 1 08-21-2006 03:14 PM
1991 olds 88 radiator tranny line kinked? fumplet Engine 1 08-20-2006 12:07 PM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 07:06 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.