1995 trans-am help!

My sis-n-law Has a 1995 trans-am and having problems. It has the LT1 Electrical problem. Won't start BC battery is always going dead brand new battery. Gas in the oil (not electric.lol) try to start by its self and won't turn start and then kills the battery. New Window motor was changed. New manifold gasket drivers side.


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Can't sentence properly.

Try that again. did you say your oil isn't electric?

okay i don't no how you don't understand that. Of course oil isn't a electrical problem. I was simply adding not included in the topic i was talking about with the electrical problems. for people who aren't bright enough to understand that it isn't going to be in my electrical problems. So yea.

Replace driver's door with junkyard unit that has manual window regulator. Problem solved.

had similar problem on 90 firebird changed 2 injectors and ecm.

Ok, seriously? Here is what I get from this post

-it has the "LT1 electrical problem." I am really well-versed in LT1s and I don't know what the "LT1 electrical problem" is.
-battery always dead, but it tries to start by itself
-there is gas in the oil but not electricity - which is a source of humor for you
-you included that there is a new manifold gasket and window motor in case they have an effect on this.

Seriously. PUNCTUATION. This string of words you wrote: "try to start by its self won't turn start and then kills the battery." ***? Is that tries to start itself but won't turn, or does that mean I try to start it without the assistance of another battery? Then the next part is huge... "try to start won't turn start." This could mean one of several things. 1) You try to start it but the key won't turn to the start position. 2) you try to start it but the engine won't turn, 3) you try to start it but the engine won't start, or 4) based on previous information, the engine is trying to start itself and can't.

Ok... so I'm going to make wild stabbing guesses but only because I know a few things about the LT1.

A common no-start issue is the PassKey system. It seems like a dead battery but it isn't. You turn the key to "start" and nothing happens except a tiny click. But lights stay bright. Sometimes the PassKey light comes on, but most times its burnt out. The only fix is to isolate the resistance of the chip in the key and duplicate it by bypassing the circuit with a resistor of the same rating.

If its not that, then its a normal issue like any other car and someone else can handle it.

I don't understand how you can expect us to possibly read that gibberish. Of course it makes sense to you; you WROTE it.

I'll second the opinion that the original post is totally incomprehensible. Almost like Yoda did he write. Another thing I don't understand is being a jerk when your asking for help. Maybe you should do a little reading on 8th grade sentence structure and diagramming before you make a total a ss out of yourself.

Well I wasn't writing a formal document. I was jotting things down that my sis-n law was telling me. How about you look at other post I made when I made perfect sense to every one. And for you buddy I have Straight A's in college writing. However if some don't understand my bad. I have made many post on this site and they are perfect sense. I didn't feel like re writing to make it proper English so I just jotted the probs that was being told to me.


How about buddy a ss ? anyways I'm not here to argue with any of you.

Okay buddy, here is the deal What I meant is the car just randomly tries to start itself with out anyone attempting to start it. (it does have an automatic start installed.) Of course it won't start because the battery is dead. Also when you would try to start it the battery is dead and just has the tick tick noise. Jump start the car and let run for while to charge battery. Then shut off the car and attempt to restart it tries to turn over and acts like not enough juice in the battery. Does the same with a new battery it will start with the new one but after about 15 minutes or so and then it does the same as the old battery. Only thing that was done was new window motor, and manifold gasket put on. Well if it would happen to be that passkey you talk about how do you fix that? Meaning how do you by pass the circuit with resistor of the same rating.

the gas smell in the oil could be the ecu not shutting down the injectors and letting the gas into the cylinder and a seaping round the rings. It could also be running the fuel pump and the injector will seap and leak some fuel into the cylinder under constant pressure. I don't have much experience with a LT1 but have heard of this with other cars. This could also explain the dead battery. What is the auto start system tied into? Was it splinced into an existing circuit or were all new wires installed and run directly off the battery? It shouldn't try to activate itself. Fix the problems that are obvious to help narrow down the hard to find. sounds like you have multiple issues.

Ok, first of all, its really obvious that the remote start system is either installed incorrectly or failing. Ditch it. You can reinstall it later if you want to , but its like trying to diagnose a heart attack on someone who has just swallowed a 9v battery.

The answer to your question seems to be a bad alternator. Dead battery, then trying to recharge it by running the car doesn't work, plus new battery fixes the problem for a little bit but then it returns later. Sounds like a dead alternator.

And I don't mean to sound like an a ss myself, but this is still VERY hard to read. Paragraphs, bullets, whatever... but this stream of consciousness is just hard to read.

Let me take a crack at this:

Straight A's in college writing?

Ever hear the acronym "GPA"?

Possibly the "phantom starting syndrome" is with the remote start fob's battery. When low, they tend to do weird things- guys who've run RC cars will attest to the fact that servos will jerk and drift w/o any input when the batteries are low. Same thing, more or less.

Physically retighten both ends of both cables from the battery.

If the cables have a replacement terminal, even if it looks and feels tight, it can still be no good. They're the cause of more electrical "problems" than any other "shade tree" fix out there, IMO. They're junk, except for a very few quality ones- and they cost nearly what a new cable does.

As for the battery losing charge, check for a short by disconnecting the negative battery terminal and run a VOM meter between the terminal and the cable to see if there's any current draw and if so, how much. For a battery to go flat so fast, there would have to be a large current draw.

I'd suggest using a 1 ohm resistor and measure across it, most meters don't go past 10A. Just to be on the safe side.

Another remote possibility is a starter motor that is dragging very badly or has some other malady. If you have the equipment you could check the current draw during start-up to see if it's excessive. Hook-up shown HERE. A high capacity amp meter would probably be best for starter draw testing.

Checking alternator- with the engine running, check the battery voltage- it should be =/> 13.8VDC, give or take. If lower, it could indicate a bad alternator.