1999 Ford Taurus 3.0 Freeze Plug Leak - Help - Page 2 - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Engine
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #16 (permalink)  
Old 12-20-2006, 05:16 AM
tnsmith10's Avatar
when will it rain???
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: where its very dry and dusty
Age: 43
Posts: 1,297
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by 97Z28
lol... if u cant pull the engine and do it right... then take it to a shop where they can r&r it the right way. i could pull the engine, replace the plugs. ALL of them that u didnt get done right with sealant... in 4 hours and it would still run afterwards. done it before. just dont let the shops tell u its a MAJOR job. its not. pulling an engine sounds horrible, but if u know what your doing, its not bad at all. may take a slight bit longer, but its WAY easier then trying to crawl under the car, remove the tranny while its on ramps, (which isnt safe at all) and try to get up in there and put the new plugs in. so... do it the HARD way, or the EASY way. like i said... it will take longer....
last i saw, the engine comes out the bottom of the car with the trans attached (remember, 99 taurus???) on the subframe. removing the trans is still quicker and allows access to where his leak is..and with either technique of going about this job, a lift is still suggested, but not required... and u obviously dont do trans work., nobody puts a front wheel drive on ramps to remove the trans...
bottom line, the trans has far less crap attached to it, and u can almost get to everything with an impact gun.. and a 4x4 across the strut towers will do the job of supporting the motor without much hassle... if ur not equipped to do the work at home, then a shop would definetly be in ur best interest...
lastly, check on the book time on each engine and trans r&r, i dont know what the book gives for the engine r&r, but the trans is 8-9 hours by mitchells parts and time guide... go with the simplest (and least costly) route..

    Advertisement
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #17 (permalink)  
Old 12-20-2006, 06:24 AM
72NOVA454
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: chicago area
Age: 51
Posts: 922
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by 97Z28
lol... if u cant pull the engine and do it right... then take it to a shop where they can r&r it the right way. i could pull the engine, replace the plugs. ALL of them that u didnt get done right with sealant... in 4 hours and it would still run afterwards. done it before. just dont let the shops tell u its a MAJOR job. its not. pulling an engine sounds horrible, but if u know what your doing, its not bad at all. may take a slight bit longer, but its WAY easier then trying to crawl under the car, remove the tranny while its on ramps, (which isnt safe at all) and try to get up in there and put the new plugs in. so... do it the HARD way, or the EASY way. like i said... it will take longer....
Dear 97Z28 dude:

thanks very much for your assistance. No one can argue with what you said (except doing the job in 4 hours - that's not possible if I'm doing it). I am not equipped to pull the engine in that car with 100% confidence and make the necessary repairs in the time I have available. First of all I don't have time (unless I took a day or two off work). Secondly even if I correct the problem, I may create another problem in the process which will get me more aggravated and cost me more time and money. bottom line - I am not pulling the engine. My mother in law does not want to lay out $1000 to a dealership (who will probably screw it up even more !!!)to do the freeze plugs on a 8 year old car that she drives 1-2 hours a week. She has little or no money. She is about 72 yrs old - divorced.

Here is my plan - many will argue, some will agree. that's fine with me. I value and consider every response I get from you guys and thank you for your assistance.

I will flush and clean the cooling system. I will refill the cooling system with 50/50 glycol/water. I will run the car and get it hot. It will most likely still leak from that freeze plug - probably even more so. I will let the car cool down. At that point I will dump in that Bars Leak stuff and hope for the best. At least her cooling system will be cleaned and replaced with new fluids before dumping in the Bars Leak.

that will cost my mother in law $0 - nothing. I spend a couple hours labor doing the cooling system and the bars leak cost only a few bucks which I pay for.

to those guys reading this shaking their head saying "what an idiot - I can believe he's dumping that snake oil stuff in and not pulling the engine to do it right" Here is my response: I am a professional engineer, I've been doing my job for 20 years, I make problem solving decisions involving lots of time and money every day. My motto is KISS (keep it simple stupid) know when enough is enough - don't over-engineer things just to impress yourself or somebody else. Do the minimum it takes to correct a problem and move on. Don't reinvent the wheel with each problem that comes along. Educate yourself before doing anything - get all the information then make a educated decision.

I can tell you I have honestly had about 10 different opinions on what to do with this - to many to mention. I have nothing to loose by doing this in my opinion. I realize that bars leak stuff "may" clog the heater core or some radiator passages, etc and may cause overheating problems or "no-heat" if the heater core gets clogged, but that's a chance I am willing to take. I am weighing out the odds of that being about 10-20% - unlikely but possible. That's why I am flushing the system before dumping in the Bars Leak.

I'll let you know how it turns out.

There is also that slight chance that I can do the freeze plug replacement without pulling the engine. I will look at that more closely before doing anything mentioned above.

Lee.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #18 (permalink)  
Old 12-20-2006, 06:52 AM
aka Duke of URL
 
Last wiki edit: Finding vacuum leaks Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Rockville, MD
Posts: 4,821
Wiki Edits: 1

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
If I might intrude here...

Due to the cost and complexity of the repair, and the actual value of the car and low funds, I (IMO) would simply flush the cooling system (do not introduce a cleaner as this may complicate the problem), add fresh coolant (green) and use a stop leak pellet (such as available from GM) first.

Keep an eye on the plug and if any further leak is noticed, then I would go to BAR'S LEAK (I believe the formulation has been advanced as to not clog cooling tubes).

If that fails, you have no other option but to repair (or have repaired) as you know as well as I do, the exact moment it decides to fail will be the most cold and miserable day in the year.

Gentlemen, not everyone here is an accomplished repair tech to be able to do this type of repair in the driveway. Cut the guy some slack, will 'ya?

Like a damn bunch of sharks around here...



-BAR'S LEAKS PRODUCTS-



See the ball socket and bend at the end of the shaft? This allows you to tap in a plug in recessed areas. Don't know if it will help, only showing.

TOOL NO. -OTC-4603-

Last edited by KULTULZ; 12-20-2006 at 06:57 AM.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #19 (permalink)  
Old 12-20-2006, 07:15 AM
72NOVA454
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: chicago area
Age: 51
Posts: 922
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by KULTULZ
If I might intrude here...

Due to the cost and complexity of the repair, and the actual value of the car and low funds, I (IMO) would simply flush the cooling system (do not introduce a cleaner as this may complicate the problem), add fresh coolant (green) and use a stop leak pellet (such as available from GM) first.

Keep an eye on the plug and if any further leak is noticed, then I would go to BAR'S LEAK (I believe the formulation has been advanced as to not clog cooling tubes).

If that fails, you have no other option but to repair (or have repaired) as you know as well as I do, the exact moment it decides to fail will be the most cold and miserable day in the year.

Gentlemen, not everyone here is an accomplished repair tech to be able to do this type of repair in the driveway. Cut the guy some slack, will 'ya?

Like a damn bunch of sharks around here...



-BAR'S LEAKS PRODUCTS-



See the ball socket and bend at the end of the shaft? This allows you to tap in a plug in recessed areas. Don't know if it will help, only showing.

TOOL NO. -OTC-4603-
Dear Kultulz:

well said. I agree, and will likely follow your guidance.

for what it's worth, I "can" make the repair in the driveway - I just don't want to for reasons explained earlier. I will look for that GM leak product you mentioned.

Also, that freeze plug tool kit is very cool. I will consider that once I get under the car again and look more closely at the location and access to the plug.

Lee
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #20 (permalink)  
Old 12-20-2006, 09:45 AM
aka Duke of URL
 
Last wiki edit: Finding vacuum leaks Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Rockville, MD
Posts: 4,821
Wiki Edits: 1

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by leejoy

Dear Kultulz:

...for what it's worth, I "can" make the repair in the driveway - I just don't want to for reasons explained earlier. I will look for that GM leak product you mentioned.

Lee
Actually, BAR'S LEAK has the pellets. Save you some hunting time maybe. Review their product line.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #21 (permalink)  
Old 12-20-2006, 10:09 AM
NAIRB's Avatar
Hotrodders.com Moderator
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: cimarron, ks
Posts: 1,658
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
I don't know about the 99, but I've changed the rear plug on earlier models using an expandable plug without removing anything.


Brian
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #22 (permalink)  
Old 12-20-2006, 10:20 AM
72NOVA454
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: chicago area
Age: 51
Posts: 922
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by NAIRB
I don't know about the 99, but I've changed the rear plug on earlier models using an expandable plug without removing anything.


Brian
Brian - thanks.

I'll have a looky again this weekend when she brings it over. I'll get under there with a good light and survey the area again, with a little more detail this time. I know there is no way to do it as is, something has to be moved if memory serves me right, there was no room to do anything other than just look at it.

I'll look on the WEB for that "expandable plug" you and other guys mentioned. I've never seen one but I can visualize what it looks like. I'm sure you need a socket or screwdriver to tighten it right?

Lee
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #23 (permalink)  
Old 12-20-2006, 10:50 AM
hotrodf1's Avatar
Chasing dreams with a ball bat
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Evansville, IN
Age: 37
Posts: 545
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
a hotrod 99 taurus?

Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #24 (permalink)  
Old 12-20-2006, 07:55 PM
tnsmith10's Avatar
when will it rain???
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: where its very dry and dusty
Age: 43
Posts: 1,297
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
just because were a bunch of hotrodders doesnt mean we dont have issues with our daily drivers... hehehe. anyways, after some thought, if u can get the old 1 out, i believe that brain(nairb) is right about the rubber expansion plug. itll be tight, but some skinny arms and little luck and i think u can do it! any way u look at it, at least its something, and for the mileage being put on the car, the rubber plug should be just fine. ive used them several times to get things by in a pinch., even my wifes car has a couple in the old decrepid 307 thats still in it. ( i have a 4 bolt 350 im going to be putting in soon, so they work for now)
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #25 (permalink)  
Old 12-21-2006, 05:11 AM
72NOVA454
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: chicago area
Age: 51
Posts: 922
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by tnsmith10
just because were a bunch of hotrodders doesnt mean we dont have issues with our daily drivers... hehehe. anyways, after some thought, if u can get the old 1 out, i believe that brain(nairb) is right about the rubber expansion plug. itll be tight, but some skinny arms and little luck and i think u can do it! any way u look at it, at least its something, and for the mileage being put on the car, the rubber plug should be just fine. ive used them several times to get things by in a pinch., even my wifes car has a couple in the old decrepid 307 thats still in it. ( i have a 4 bolt 350 im going to be putting in soon, so they work for now)
yea thanks buddy. I agree. I was at the auto parts store yesterday getting a new thermostat for my daughters 95 grand am (stuck open) and I had the buy behind the counter show me what the rubber expandable freeze plugs look like. Very nice - easy to use - simple. I wanted to see the size available and how they are tightened. All were tightened with a "nut", about 7/16" size I believe.

I will look at the taurus again on saturday and decide what to do.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #26 (permalink)  
Old 12-21-2006, 09:28 AM
johnsongrass1's Avatar
Race it, Don't rice it!
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Columbia, Mo
Age: 38
Posts: 4,080
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 10 Times in 10 Posts
Yesterday morning I was headed for work and smelled the sickening sweet smell fo antifreeze. Then I noticed a 270 temo guage reading, then I noticed three inches of water in my passenger side floor board. Really about it too. Then I was up till 2am installing a heater core.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #27 (permalink)  
Old 12-21-2006, 09:49 AM
72NOVA454
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: chicago area
Age: 51
Posts: 922
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by johnsongrass1
Yesterday morning I was headed for work and smelled the sickening sweet smell fo antifreeze. Then I noticed a 270 temo guage reading, then I noticed three inches of water in my passenger side floor board. Really about it too. Then I was up till 2am installing a heater core.
Must be "national cooling system leak" week. I thought that was next month?

Lee
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #28 (permalink)  
Old 12-25-2006, 06:22 PM
72NOVA454
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: chicago area
Age: 51
Posts: 922
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
guys I need your help again please.

Ok - here's an update.

I put in Bars Leak stuff. No luck. I've ran the car a few times. the freeze plug still leaks - Ok time to move forward. I looked more closely at the freeze plug and what it would take to make the repair (replacement).

I think I can do it without pulling the engine or trans. I will be using one of those aftermarket "rubber" "expandable" type freeze plugs.

Does anybody know the size of the factory freeze plug on that Taurus? It's a 1999 with the 3.0 (or 3.1) V-6. The freeze plug looks like its about
1-1/4". I can't measure it. I want to buy the right one. This is one of at least (2) of the freeze plugs on the "firewall" side of the engine block. They both appear to be the same size.

Thanks Guys

Lee
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Engine posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
89 Ford Taurus SHO Engine heyphilbert Engine 6 08-17-2006 09:55 PM
Trying to help sister with her 95 Ford Taurus 406chevelle Engine 31 01-21-2005 11:41 PM
1950 Ford Anitfreeze leak ebiosca Engine 0 04-06-2003 04:05 PM
Whatever happend to these guys? hot_rod_kid Hotrodders' Lounge 20 12-17-2002 09:20 AM
ford 7.3L diesel injector pump output line leak snowman Engine 3 09-18-2002 09:00 PM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 08:36 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.