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Old 12-17-2006, 05:36 PM
72NOVA454
 
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1999 Ford Taurus 3.0 Freeze Plug Leak - Help

Guys Help

My mother in law brought her car over to me because she has a coolant leak. It's a 99 Ford Taurus 3.0 4-door. The freeze plug on the "backside" of the engine is leaking. Took me a while to find it. Not easy. The one of the frontside of the engine is easy to get to, but the backside one is buried and has no access.

What is required to make this repair? Can the engine stay in the car or does she need to come out in order to gain access to the freeze plug.

thanks guys.

Lee

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Old 12-17-2006, 06:30 PM
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The problem with the 3.0 2v taurus's is the coolant system gets rust brown looking they had service bulitins where the added a coolant bypass kit and they flushed the block. When it rusty coolant gets real bad it starts eating core plugs, water pump impellers, thermostats, and starts clogging up heater cores and radiators. If the core plug is on the rear of the engine behind the bellhousing the engine has to come out. If it is on the side of the engine closest to the firewall you can replace it. Napa has expandable core plugs that look like big rubber corks with a nut in the middle that is what I would use. Flush the crap out of it and you should still be able to buy the bypass kit if it does not have one installed. If it has one installed you would see a heater hose coming off the top of the water pump (Pass side) and it would have a T in it and anouther hose that would go over to the rear of the engine(Drivers side) and T into a heater hose.

I hope this helps.
Tim
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Old 12-17-2006, 08:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Timido
The problem with the 3.0 2v taurus's is the coolant system gets rust brown looking they had service bulitins where the added a coolant bypass kit and they flushed the block. When it rusty coolant gets real bad it starts eating core plugs, water pump impellers, thermostats, and starts clogging up heater cores and radiators. If the core plug is on the rear of the engine behind the bellhousing the engine has to come out. If it is on the side of the engine closest to the firewall you can replace it. Napa has expandable core plugs that look like big rubber corks with a nut in the middle that is what I would use. Flush the crap out of it and you should still be able to buy the bypass kit if it does not have one installed. If it has one installed you would see a heater hose coming off the top of the water pump (Pass side) and it would have a T in it and anouther hose that would go over to the rear of the engine(Drivers side) and T into a heater hose.

I hope this helps.
Tim
what is the purpose of the bypass kit?

the leaky freeze plug is not by the bellhousing, it's on the firewall side, near the center cylinder I believe. Is that one easily replaced? If I remember correctly there is lots of stuff in the way.

Lee
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Old 12-17-2006, 11:34 PM
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pull the engine, replace the freeze plug and check all the rest of them for leaks. then flush the cooling system. and u may want to replace the rest of the plugs just to ensure u dont have that problem again. if u know what your doing u can have that done within 6 - 8 hours. depending on how things go for you.
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Old 12-18-2006, 07:03 AM
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do not pull the engine!!! the trans is much easier to remove and takes far less time... u'll need an engine support to hold the motor while trans is out (front subframe needs to be removed) that'll open up the whole engine area around all freeze plugs , from the back of the engine,( where i just did the 2 freeze plugs on a 99 taurus a week ago, same engine, had done in 3 hours) to the firewall side, where with the trans out can be easily reached... if u have nothing to suppoort the motor, then i would suggest taking it to a shop. trans shop preferred because they specialize in trans r&r and can do the freeze plugs as well.. best of luck
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Old 12-18-2006, 07:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tnsmith10

...do not pull the engine!!! the trans is much easier to remove and takes far less time... u'll need an engine support to hold the motor while trans is out (front subframe needs to be removed) that'll open up the whole engine area around all freeze plugs , from the back of the engine...
DAMN GOOD SUGGESTION HERE!



I wonder if you can rent these at discount parts stores?
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Old 12-18-2006, 07:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 97Z28
pull the engine, replace the freeze plug and check all the rest of them for leaks. then flush the cooling system. and u may want to replace the rest of the plugs just to ensure u dont have that problem again. if u know what your doing u can have that done within 6 - 8 hours. depending on how things go for you.
thanks for your help but.........................

I am not pulling the engine. It's not my car, it's the mother-in-law's. I do all standard maintenance and 1-2 hour fixes on the car for her. I "don't" pull engines. what if something else gets damaged in the process? who pays for that - me. what if other parts are needed to accomodate the engine pulling - who pays for that - me..... no way am I pulling that motor out.

I'll call ford service - a few dealerships and see what they say the book rate is for that procedure and go from there.

Lee
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Old 12-18-2006, 07:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tnsmith10
do not pull the engine!!! the trans is much easier to remove and takes far less time... u'll need an engine support to hold the motor while trans is out (front subframe needs to be removed) that'll open up the whole engine area around all freeze plugs , from the back of the engine,( where i just did the 2 freeze plugs on a 99 taurus a week ago, same engine, had done in 3 hours) to the firewall side, where with the trans out can be easily reached... if u have nothing to suppoort the motor, then i would suggest taking it to a shop. trans shop preferred because they specialize in trans r&r and can do the freeze plugs as well.. best of luck
thanks for the reply buddy. I am processing your information. I like your idea. there is no way I am "pulling" the engine. I'd have to be crazy to do that. I am capable of doing it, I've done it before and that why I am "not" going to do it in this situation - not my car. I've learned from experience when and when NOT to do things. I will call several ford dealerships and see what the book rate is for this procedure and what information they can offer. I bet they do a few of these each month. There is a Ford TSB issued for this problem - very common.

Lee
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Old 12-18-2006, 09:55 AM
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Or you could replace the $2 freeze plug on the engine flush the crap out of the coolant and hope the rest dont leak. I dont fix things if they are not broke. I think the bypass kit was installed to keep the system from trapping air pockets.
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Old 12-18-2006, 10:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Timido
Or you could replace the $2 freeze plug on the engine flush the crap out of the coolant and hope the rest dont leak. I dont fix things if they are not broke. I think the bypass kit was installed to keep the system from trapping air pockets.
dude: the problem is not the $2 freeze plug. It's getting access to it.

I just talked to a ford dealer. the guy was very honest. He said it's a major problem and a lot of work. He suggested throwing in Bars Leak for now and hope it holds for a couple years. he also said that flushing the cooling system may cause new leaks to appear and to not do that for now. maybe in the future after the bars leak product works for a while.

Lee
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Old 12-18-2006, 03:49 PM
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I worked at a Ford dealer for about 10years. with an expandable core plug that job should take about a hour. The more you are charged the more everyone makes at a dealer. Part of installing that bypass kit also involved a detailed chemical flush where a core plug in each side of the engine was removed to clean all the junk out of the block. The kit came with 2 expandable core plugs to replace the ones that were knocked out. I wouldnt put bars leak in anything.
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Old 12-18-2006, 04:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Timido
I worked at a Ford dealer for about 10years. with an expandable core plug that job should take about a hour. The more you are charged the more everyone makes at a dealer. Part of installing that bypass kit also involved a detailed chemical flush where a core plug in each side of the engine was removed to clean all the junk out of the block. The kit came with 2 expandable core plugs to replace the ones that were knocked out. I wouldnt put bars leak in anything.
ok, now you got the juices flowing..........

an hour? it takes me that long to get the overalls on, pull the car in the garage, jack it up, get lighting under there, etc. then another hour to drain the coolant from the radiator after removing the underneath protective covers just to get access to the lower radiator drain plug..............man you are good.........

anyway, if I recall, I don't believe there is "any" accessibility to that particular freeze plug without removing something significant thats in the way. I'll have to get under there and look at it again. If I recall, the frame of the car was in the way...... yes certainly I can stick a long screwdriver up through that opening and "touch" the freeze plug but removing the existing one and getting any kind of new one in there looks almost impossible.

with regard to the bars leak stuff. what do you have against it? your experience's please................I've only used it once in my life like 20 years ago.

Lee


anyway,
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Old 12-18-2006, 05:58 PM
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Please forgive me I was not trying to argue with you. As far as my experiences with radiator stop leaks and other snake oil fixes. I dont like bandaids.
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Old 12-18-2006, 07:26 PM
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Stop leak wil make the problems worse. If the system is already full of rust stopleak will just plug it up. Knock the plug out with a long screwdriver and put in the expandable plug. it is doable. I would also knock out a plug on the front that has easy access and run water through that water is clear. This is the only way to flush an engine properly. If you have more leaks after flushing they were there already and probably just covered in rust.
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Old 12-19-2006, 10:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leejoy
thanks for your help but.........................

I am not pulling the engine. It's not my car, it's the mother-in-law's. I do all standard maintenance and 1-2 hour fixes on the car for her. I "don't" pull engines. what if something else gets damaged in the process? who pays for that - me. what if other parts are needed to accomodate the engine pulling - who pays for that - me..... no way am I pulling that motor out.

I'll call ford service - a few dealerships and see what they say the book rate is for that procedure and go from there.

Lee
lol... if u cant pull the engine and do it right... then take it to a shop where they can r&r it the right way. i could pull the engine, replace the plugs. ALL of them that u didnt get done right with sealant... in 4 hours and it would still run afterwards. done it before. just dont let the shops tell u its a MAJOR job. its not. pulling an engine sounds horrible, but if u know what your doing, its not bad at all. may take a slight bit longer, but its WAY easier then trying to crawl under the car, remove the tranny while its on ramps, (which isnt safe at all) and try to get up in there and put the new plugs in. so... do it the HARD way, or the EASY way. like i said... it will take longer....
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