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Old 01-04-2013, 01:24 PM
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1999 Sonoma Door hinges

1999 Sonoma door hinges holes are oblong-ed from wear.I am thinking I want to weld up the holes and re-drill them to the pin/bushing size.It's the shop truck/d.d.
I am concerned about getting the original hole locations back and door alinement and I've never had much luck with the plastic door panel pins getting them off and back on as it was.

It there a tool to get the plastic pins off and comments about welding up the door hinges and re-drilling them.

Thanks

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Old 01-04-2013, 02:13 PM
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The clips will likely break, the Chevy ones are pretty funky and break. But a clip removing tool like this is the ticket. And are available at many parts stores. They sell the clips as well, you will be breaking at last a few.



The best of the best (it BLOWS AWAY the one above) is a Snap On

If you plan on doing a lot of this work I highly recommend getting the Snap On.



On the welding and drilling, I have to say I tried it once, the mig weld is SOOOO hard that you will beat up drills, they will walk, it SUCKS. I say weld up the edges then grind it round using a rotary file. That is how I have done a crap load of them and it works just fine. It isn't like we are talking about an engine part here, the tolerances aren't as critical and the bushing will fit just fine.

Brian
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Old 01-04-2013, 02:19 PM
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Thanks Brian...My neighbor has the identical problem and I now know what you mean about drill bits walking. Time to dig out that rat tail file. Thank God he's on holidays until Monday and now I'll have it fixed for him by the time he gets home.

Thanks again Brian.
Ray
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Old 01-04-2013, 08:35 PM
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Dorman sells replacement hinges.

99 1999 GMC Sonoma Door Hinge - Body Parts - Dorman | Drivewire.com

The thing is the body shops around here have told me there is a wire harness right behind the panel the hinge welds to and there is a high likelihood of frying the harness.Humm,not sure about that.I figure it wouldn't be hard to re-weld a new hinge following the outline of the old one.That's why I was going to weld up the hole,flapper dics grind it smooth and re-drill it,but I do see your point about the weld being hard. Have you replaced the hinge too??.
Yepper-I know guys have told me to just put in the new bushings and pins,these are too far gone.I guess for some that can be done.I am tired of slamming the door.Recently I broke off the arm rest trying to close the door and I know how lucky I am that I haven't broken the window yet.Kind of sucks I got to go threw this job,but I have faced up to the fact I can't let it go to much more.
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Old 01-04-2013, 08:49 PM
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I can not stress enough, DO NOT replace the weld on hinges! That is a MUTHA of MUTHAS I have done it and I will do anything before that.

Brian
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Old 01-04-2013, 09:07 PM
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Agree with all of the above, DO NOT REPLACE welded-on hinges. The mig weld is hard and the bits will walk, no room for a drill and all 4 hole MUST be inline

SO

go to your hardware store and get the same size copper OR stainless rod as your bushings, insert thru BOTH holes and weld is shut. The weld will not stick to copper or stainless, finish grind the weld, prime, install bushings. Quick, easy and works every time.

Good luck with it
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Old 01-04-2013, 09:59 PM
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That is a DAMN GOOD idea! But doesn't it have to be copper or brass, you can weld to stainless.

Brian
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Old 01-04-2013, 10:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldBodyman View Post
Agree with all of the above, DO NOT REPLACE welded-on hinges. The mig weld is hard and the bits will walk, no room for a drill and all 4 hole MUST be inline

SO

go to your hardware store and get the same size copper OR stainless rod as your bushings, insert thru BOTH holes and weld is shut. The weld will not stick to copper or stainless, finish grind the weld, prime, install bushings. Quick, easy and works every time.

Good luck with it
So just so I have this right.Are you talking about one long rod to go threw the top hinge and bottom hinge at the same time.Right??.I could see my Mig handle either bass or copper,but the stainless I don't think it would do too good on that.The bushing I am thinking would be metric,but I got a local hardware store known for having things no one else has.
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Old 01-05-2013, 12:51 AM
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"That is a DAMN GOOD idea! But doesn't it have to be copper or brass, you can weld to stainless."

Copper yes, brass NO that's brazing, stainless depends on alloy. What I used was a cut-down bolt, could have been monel, boatyard stuff. Practice on whatever you have on hand, I doubt aluminum would work, too low of a melting point. A long as the weld will flake off when cooled.

"The bushing I am thinking would be metric,but I got a local hardware store known for having things no one else has. "

Just measure the OD of the new bushing, most are splined, a little small is good.

"Are you talking about one long rod to go threw the top hinge and bottom hinge at the same time."

Would be wonderful but I doubt it would fit and be removable. It does need to reach thru both holes per hinge and some more to grab. Once welded let it cool down, grab with vice-grips and break it free then wiggle it out of place. A chain-saw file will trim it out if needed.
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Old 01-05-2013, 07:24 AM
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You can replace the pins and bushings without any welding at all...where the pin holes are, just drill them out for a bushing and the pin will be nice and tight,usually the bushings just need to be replaced but if the fit isnt tight they should also be resrilled and go to the bigger bushing.In a chevy pin & bushing set there are two sets of bushings small and large for each hinge. I used the small bushing for where the pin holes are so in other words the hinges have 4 bushings insted of two... The way I used to do it was change the bushings and if the pin holes were wore out I'd weld the pin in top and bottombut dont get crazy you may have to get the pin out at a later date so one good bead is all you need...Other than making it hard to replace again theres a chance of getting weld splatter on the paint or worse the glass...heres a pic of my new way to rebuild a hinge without welding up the hole and redrilling or any welding at all 4 bushings insted of two... and the best thing is,its ez and only takes a minute...
Removing the door first....
theres a wire harness going into the door theres no need to take the door panel off.... follow the harness to where it goes into the jamb ,pull the boot and pull the wires out untill you see the plug and unplug it ,Thats all you have to do to remove the door .....on some car the plug is pinned to something so you cant pull it out ,in that case you remove the kick panel and unplug it from inside...if it has any wires going into the door theres always a plug...
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Old 01-05-2013, 08:11 AM
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That IS a dam good idea !!

I bought an 88 K2500 that sufferd alot of neglect and is the first year of the welded hinges. Done some research and found an ingenius kit with a bit extension and greaseable bushings for $400, even to weld washers on the hinge. !! But that copper pipe gig is the best i've heard !! I know what I'm doing this weekend
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Old 01-05-2013, 09:28 AM
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dbm is right about the 4 bushings BUT sometime you can't get a drill to the holes.

you'll have the car, new bushings and old hinge pin. take the bushing and pin around and find the right size copper tubing for the bushing and insert the old pin for strength and heat sink. blacken the tubing with a Bic lighter for a release agent, the weld wont stick to it. clamp, wedge, jig the plug against the un-worn side of the hole for perfect factory location and alignment. easy.

if you have a gas torch, brass is strong enough and does not stick to aluminum, again blacken with Bic lighter.

Whatever works, it's a lousy job but someone has to do it.
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Old 01-05-2013, 09:52 AM
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You know most of the out of round is the top hinge where all the wt of the door hangs from.I'm not sure if even the bottom hinge hole is worn out at all.Can't see it that well until I get the door off.

Thank you for the tip.I'll try to remember to take the camera with me when I do this.
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Old 01-05-2013, 11:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldBodyman View Post
dbm is right about the 4 bushings BUT sometime you can't get a drill to the holes.

you'll have the car, new bushings and old hinge pin. take the bushing and pin around and find the right size copper tubing for the bushing and insert the old pin for strength and heat sink. blacken the tubing with a Bic lighter for a release agent, the weld wont stick to it. clamp, wedge, jig the plug against the un-worn side of the hole for perfect factory location and alignment. easy.

if you have a gas torch, brass is strong enough and does not stick to aluminum, again blacken with Bic lighter.

Whatever works, it's a lousy job but someone has to do it.
You are a sharp dude, very good stuff!

Brian
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Old 01-05-2013, 11:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deadbodyman View Post
You can replace the pins and bushings without any welding at all...where the pin holes are, just drill them out for a bushing and the pin will be nice and tight,usually the bushings just need to be replaced but if the fit isnt tight they should also be resrilled and go to the bigger bushing.In a chevy pin & bushing set there are two sets of bushings small and large for each hinge. I used the small bushing for where the pin holes are so in other words the hinges have 4 bushings insted of two... The way I used to do it was change the bushings and if the pin holes were wore out I'd weld the pin in top and bottombut dont get crazy you may have to get the pin out at a later date so one good bead is all you need...Other than making it hard to replace again theres a chance of getting weld splatter on the paint or worse the glass...heres a pic of my new way to rebuild a hinge without welding up the hole and redrilling or any welding at all 4 bushings insted of two... and the best thing is,its ez and only takes a minute...
Removing the door first....
theres a wire harness going into the door theres no need to take the door panel off.... follow the harness to where it goes into the jamb ,pull the boot and pull the wires out untill you see the plug and unplug it ,Thats all you have to do to remove the door .....on some car the plug is pinned to something so you cant pull it out ,in that case you remove the kick panel and unplug it from inside...if it has any wires going into the door theres always a plug...
And again, brilliant stuff, very interesting.

Brian
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