1st time engine rebuild problems. - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Engine
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 06-29-2008, 01:31 AM
J77 J77 is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 5
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
1st time engine rebuild problems.

Hello, I just recently rebuilt my first motor which is a 1973 chevy 454. The motor is on a mighty mount engine test stand. i couldn't put the headers facing down because of the way the test stand is so I bought some block huggers and faced them upwards. I'm running into a few problems. And before I tear it down again, just wanted to get some info. The motor runs hot after some time, and I'm fairly sure the water pump and the thermostat are working because the bottom radiator hose is cold and the upper one is hot (so I'm assuming the thermostat is allowing the hot water to recirculate back to the radiator and the water pump is moving the water). Is this a correct assumption? My fear is that the head gasket might be blown. Because the coolant keeps going down, but I'm not sure if maybe it's just because the block still needs more water since it was totally empty and I should just keep filling the radiator up as it's going down. The radiator seems to have the burping problem though. I have some white smoke coming out from time to time, but have been around cars with the "Sweet Smelling Smoke" that usually accompanies burning antifreeze. It doesn't smell like that. Also I'm not sure when people say the oil will be milky if it's a blown head gasket. How milky is milky? It looks like almost a dark coffee right now. I used BR Engine break in oil for the cam. My compression is as follows 1 = 10.5, 3 = 11, 5 = 12, 7 = 12 / 2 = 11, 4 = 11, 6 = 11, 8= 11. My other serious problem is that before I did have mufflers (purple hornies) on the headers but they were almost glowing red hot.. I took them off and fired the motor just to see and I get a 5 to 6 inch flame coming out of the headers almost like a drag car. Not all the time, but half the time those things light up. My timing is adjusted now where the motor seems to be idling pretty healthily. I'm thinking maybe my timing is retarded to much, but the motor would not catch when it was advanced more. And now my really stupid question. I understand it's not good to run a motor without back pressure (i.e. the mufflers), but when I flipped the block huggers around they don't fit exactly on the exhaust ports.. A little off center, will this not create back pressure? I can't find 3 bolt flanged pipe turn down mufflers to fit the huggers (for a reasonable price) . Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

    Advertisement
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 06-29-2008, 01:59 AM
NEW INTERIORS's Avatar
Believe in yourself !!!!!!
 

Last journal entry: 41 WILLYS FRAME
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: In My Shop..
Age: 49
Posts: 10,300
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 1,442
Thanked 691 Times in 508 Posts
It is real easy on a big block to have a air pocket in the motor.You have to keep putting water in it and make sure you have all the air out of the motor.I have seen it drive some people crazy.And made them think the same thing you are thinking.When I get my motor to the right temp,I add the water very slowly,Are it will close your thermostat.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 06-29-2008, 12:02 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: utah
Posts: 416
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Drain the oil and check it. If your loosing coolant into the oil then the two wont coagulate and it will appear as bubbles of water in the oil or it will settle to the bottom.

Dark coffee colored oil in a new motor aint right. It should be clean as a whistle. If your loosing coolant into the oil then you know youve got some serious issues.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 06-29-2008, 07:59 PM
Rubberman2003's Avatar
Member
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Ohio
Age: 29
Posts: 806
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I agree, It sounds like you have an air pocket. First i would just keep adding water to the radiator while the motor is running. When you get the air pocket out, the bubbles will stop. Then i would drain the engine oil and look for coolant, good luck! Airpockets can take a while to work out sometimes, you might have to play with the throttle and stuff to help work it out, be patient.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 06-30-2008, 08:31 AM
Double_v23's Avatar
Horsepower Enthusiast
 

Last journal entry: Finished BMOD001FH
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Mooresville, NC
Posts: 1,495
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 5 Times in 5 Posts
Make sure that your radiator fill cap is the highest point on the cooling system or you will never get it full.

Also 9 times out of 10 when a BBC is overheating then the timing is too advanced. if you have more then about 32 degrees of total timing then you will experience overheating.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #6 (permalink)  
Old 06-30-2008, 09:18 AM
Barry.M's Avatar
Old Phart
 
Last wiki edit: How to identify a Ford V8
Last journal entry: 27 T Roadster project: Underway cont.
Last photo:
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: S.A.Australia
Age: 56
Posts: 132
Wiki Edits: 3

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Another BBC overheating problem area is the water bypass hose that connects the manifold to the water pump. This hose bypass's 20% or so HOT water straight back into the block. Block this off and drill a couple of small holes 1/8" diameter in the Thermostat flange to allow a small amount of bypass until the thermostat opens.

The other option as I have done on my 427 is use the manifold and waterpump fittings as connections for a heater and fit a restrictor with a 1/4" hole in it. The restrictor is fitted in the manifold outlet hose. This provides enough hot water to the heater and reduces the amount of hot water going straight back into the block.

Use a 180-190 degree thermostat as any colder it will be open all the time and the motor will just heat up and up and boil. Use a 15lb cap.

There are many schools of thought about the speed that coolant should flow arround a radiator. Some say "too fast and the coolant has no time too cool" while others say "it doesn't matter how fast it circulates it will cool if the radiator has the capacity to exchange the heat to the air".

Was the block "hot tanked" when it was rebuilt ?. Did you or the engine rebuilder cleanout the water jacket when the welsh plugs were removed ?. If not it could be full of crud and won't help the situation?.

If you are getting coolant in the oil it will be coffee colored and foamy in the rocker covers. Also your oil level will be rising on the dipstick.

Hope you get it sorted.........Barry.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #7 (permalink)  
Old 06-30-2008, 01:58 PM
J77 J77 is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 5
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Thanks

Thank you so much everybody!!!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #8 (permalink)  
Old 06-30-2008, 03:40 PM
Double_v23's Avatar
Horsepower Enthusiast
 

Last journal entry: Finished BMOD001FH
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Mooresville, NC
Posts: 1,495
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 5 Times in 5 Posts
I have one of those mighty mount test stands as well. They really weren't thinking when they designed them I had to grind half the passenger side motor mount off to get a set of headers on there. Most block huggers won't work upside down on a small block. I tried 6 different sets before I found one that even came close.

They don't say anything about the custom headers they are running in the ad. I guess that is why they were the least expensive.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #9 (permalink)  
Old 06-30-2008, 05:43 PM
J77 J77 is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 5
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
yea, and god forbid you try and put a mopar on there.. You need to fab your own motor mounting plates out of the ford plates..
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Engine posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
1973 Chevelle Malibu Engine Rebuild (pics 56k no) Malibu73 Hotrodders' Lounge 39 11-04-2008 01:37 PM
350 engine rebuild 74camaro Engine 1 04-06-2006 09:26 PM
High cost of engine rebuild kits?? BOBCRMAN@aol.com Engine 34 01-29-2005 11:22 AM
Problems on new engine? 1985fiero Engine 3 06-06-2004 03:29 PM
"Compression Drop" on New Engine Rebuild white66coupe Engine 5 11-05-2002 04:44 PM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 11:31 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.