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Old 03-20-2014, 02:21 AM
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1st timer... sbc 350 motor rebuild

Hey guys, long time reader, first time poster... Stripped down my sbc 350 which ran into a knock issue.. looks like its a spun bearing... see video..
IMG 8831 - YouTube

Now what your suggestions to fix this issue? How do the pistons/head look?
Heads are 882s.









My other motor which is running condition, I would probably just swap the cam, but after tearing it apart looks like a lot of carbon build up on the pistons... those heads are 185's...








Both motors have a 3970010 Block, and both are bored 30 over...


I am looking for the cheapest route, but at the same time I don't want to be tearing this motor down again in a month, hence willing to replace key components based on your suggestions. Suggestions on what to do with these 2 motors, what to use, what not to, do I need to get the blocks machined again? What components do I want to replace without a doubt etc. I love cars, love to work on them and learn please play nice...

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Old 03-20-2014, 06:30 AM
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If you just want a stock engine?
1) buy a used engine
2) buy an exchange long block
3)take the engine apart and send in pieces to machine shop and buy a cheapo rebuild kit from your supplier and reassemble yourself.

If you want a performance engine?
check block,throw the rest away
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Old 03-20-2014, 12:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vinniekq2 View Post
If you just want a stock engine?
1) buy a used engine
2) buy an exchange long block
3)take the engine apart and send in pieces to machine shop and buy a cheapo rebuild kit from your supplier and reassemble yourself.

If you want a performance engine?
check block,throw the rest away
What parts to send to machine shop? Block and heads? What do I want to get done?
Thanks

Last edited by hotchrome; 03-20-2014 at 12:37 PM.
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Old 03-20-2014, 04:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hotchrome View Post
What parts to send to machine shop? Block and heads? What do I want to get done?
Thanks
There is far too much information to convey to you than will be easily done on this forum. Avail yourself of this book, second one on the list, for $21.67 plus $3.99 shipping. Book comes with a video to help you understand the entire process of rebuilding your motor, A to Z.
Amazon.com: Buying Choices: How to Rebuild the Small-Block Chevrolet: Step-by-Step Videobook (S-A Design Video Workbench) (S-A Design Workbench Series) Amazon.com: Buying Choices: How to Rebuild the Small-Block Chevrolet: Step-by-Step Videobook (S-A Design Video Workbench) (S-A Design Workbench Series)
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Old 03-20-2014, 10:36 PM
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Originally Posted by techinspector1 View Post
There is far too much information to convey to you than will be easily done on this forum. Avail yourself of this book, second one on the list, for $21.67 plus $3.99 shipping. Book comes with a video to help you understand the entire process of rebuilding your motor, A to Z.
Amazon.com: Buying Choices: How to Rebuild the Small-Block Chevrolet: Step-by-Step Videobook (S-A Design Video Workbench) (S-A Design Workbench Series)
Thanks...

Bump, any insightful/helpful info appreciated.
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Old 03-21-2014, 07:20 PM
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This looks like a full teardown and trip to machine shop. Rods can be resized and the crank, if its not too bad, can be turned down. You might be better to look for a good used engine . If theres not too much crud circulated through the engine a good cleaning might do. Otherwise it,s in the tank and replace cam brngs. and whatever. Overhaul can be costly and a good used engine could be quite a bit less. Just depends on the size of your pockets and how far you want to go.
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Old 03-21-2014, 09:05 PM
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If it were my engine, and all I wanted was a good running stock type engine I would:

-Mark all components to assure they went back to where they came from
-Fully disassemble and identify the cause of the knock and rectify
-Thoroughly clean and visually inspect ALL components and determine what else should be replaced
-Depending on condition of the bores do a hone and re-ring, if bores are worn a re-bore and hone would be next
-Thorough cleaning of block and oil galleys
-Check/adjust piston ring gap/plasti-gage main and rod clearances
-Re-assemble bottom end using stock hardware
-If the engine didn't have an oil or coolant consumption issue I would clean the heads, check the valve guides for condition, lap the valves if needed, and replace the valve seals
-Bolt the heads on using cheapo fel-pro gaskets and even stock head bolts if they would hold torque.

A 350 in the condition your's appears to be in can be made dependable and serviceable very inexpensively if you only replace what needs to be replaced.

To be honest, you might be better off buying a good used engine. I paid only $100 for a perfect running TBI 350 last year. It's always a crap shoot buying used stuff though, make sure you hear it run before you buy it.
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Old 03-22-2014, 11:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stroker_SS View Post
If it were my engine, and all I wanted was a good running stock type engine I would:

-Mark all components to assure they went back to where they came from
-Fully disassemble and identify the cause of the knock and rectify
-Thoroughly clean and visually inspect ALL components and determine what else should be replaced
-Depending on condition of the bores do a hone and re-ring, if bores are worn a re-bore and hone would be next
-Thorough cleaning of block and oil galleys
-Check/adjust piston ring gap/plasti-gage main and rod clearances
-Re-assemble bottom end using stock hardware
-If the engine didn't have an oil or coolant consumption issue I would clean the heads, check the valve guides for condition, lap the valves if needed, and replace the valve seals
-Bolt the heads on using cheapo fel-pro gaskets and even stock head bolts if they would hold torque.

A 350 in the condition your's appears to be in can be made dependable and serviceable very inexpensively if you only replace what needs to be replaced.

To be honest, you might be better off buying a good used engine. I paid only $100 for a perfect running TBI 350 last year. It's always a crap shoot buying used stuff though, make sure you hear it run before you buy it.
Thanks guys!

Tore it completely down... Will post pictures tomorrow. Pistons, rods, crank and cam look good but then again I'm not a pro like you guys...

Going to send the block to machine shop to get cleaned, honed, and bored if nessessary as their seems to be bit of a lip at the edge of the blocks piston walls.

Think while the engine is apart I may as well get a rebuild kit and replace everything. For the $2-300 good peice of mind... I don't want **** breaking so fast again as I do drive it hard. Once I post pictures let me know if it's ok to use the components coming out of the engine...

Heads... I'm thinking of upgrading any suggestions for good bang for the buck heads?

Thanks again guys you all been good help!
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Old 03-22-2014, 11:49 PM
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cannot machine block for new pistons without the pistons at the shop with the block for fitting
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Old 03-23-2014, 12:11 AM
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Originally Posted by vinniekq2 View Post
cannot machine block for new pistons without the pistons at the shop with the block for fitting
Oh snap!? I better order the kit first then but Ill post pictures first of the pistons I current have to see if I can reuse these...
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Old 03-23-2014, 01:27 AM
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View more pictures here. Let me know what you think about piston, cam and crank conditions. Not easy to tell I guess but any insight is helpful.

http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w...psgih42imv.jpg

http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w...ps0dv1gyb2.jpg

http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w...ps94k98cyt.jpg

http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w...psahadoczu.jpg
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Old 03-23-2014, 07:31 AM
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Originally Posted by hotchrome View Post
Oh snap!? I better order the kit first then but Ill post pictures first of the pistons I current have to see if I can reuse these...
don't order anything yet. get the block to the machinist and have him measure everything up, don't let him bore and hone without the pistons in hand even if he says he can do it and does it all the time, tell him you want each bore honed specifically for each piston and you want them all numbered for each cylinder, if he wants to charge extra then find a different shop. If he says the block will clean up at .030" then you can have him check the crank and rods. If the crank needs to be turned then you will need undersized bearings for the main and rod bearings. Talk to your machinist about your options (he may be able to give you better pricing than a mail order kit). Really pay close attention to your stack height and block deck height. Like tech suggested, before doing anything pick up a couple of books on the subject. Find one that covers from engine tear down to engine assembly including machine work. If you have some knowledge of the machine work that needs to be done the machinist may not take you for as much or do things that don't need to be done.

3-400 bucks is not gonna cut it on a total rebuild. You will probably have that tied up into machine work before you buy any parts.

If the 882 heads haven't had the exhaust seats replaced for unleaded fuel just just chuck them, by the time you have them re worked you will be halfway to a set of new vortecs. The 882 flow somewhat OK but the combustion chamber on them is lacking compared to modern designs like the gm fast burn chambers, like whats on the vortecs. When you go to the machinist talk to him about used heads, he may have some. I would look for the 193 swirl ports or the 062 vortec heads (the vortec requires extra parts so do your homework). People talk garbage about the 193 heads but if your not racing the car and spending all the time at 4000rpms and up they'll be a good piece at the right price.

If it was me doing this project I would throw all your parts in the scrap pile. Search craigslist for a good core vortec engine. With this you will get the vortec heads (if they are in good shape) and a factory roller block with everything to set up a roller cam............you will still need to buy an aftermarket intake to bolt up to the vortec heads but you planned on an intake anyways, right?

Last edited by crussell85; 03-23-2014 at 07:52 AM.
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Old 03-23-2014, 07:42 AM
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Beware of rebuild kits.Especially the budget kits.Most will have "rebuilders pistons" w/ a shorter 1.54 pin hgt.Using these will kill your compession,power,& any detoonation resistance.You want pistons with a 1.56" pin hgt on a 350.
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Old 03-23-2014, 08:06 AM
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make sure you numbered the main caps and orientation.
same with rods and matching caps
toss the camshaft away,its job is finishedand,
everything crussell85 said,,,
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Old 03-24-2014, 03:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crussell85 View Post
don't order anything yet. get the block to the machinist and have him measure everything up, don't let him bore and hone without the pistons in hand even if he says he can do it and does it all the time, tell him you want each bore honed specifically for each piston and you want them all numbered for each cylinder, if he wants to charge extra then find a different shop. If he says the block will clean up at .030" then you can have him check the crank and rods. If the crank needs to be turned then you will need undersized bearings for the main and rod bearings. Talk to your machinist about your options (he may be able to give you better pricing than a mail order kit). Really pay close attention to your stack height and block deck height. Like tech suggested, before doing anything pick up a couple of books on the subject. Find one that covers from engine tear down to engine assembly including machine work. If you have some knowledge of the machine work that needs to be done the machinist may not take you for as much or do things that don't need to be done.

3-400 bucks is not gonna cut it on a total rebuild. You will probably have that tied up into machine work before you buy any parts.

If the 882 heads haven't had the exhaust seats replaced for unleaded fuel just just chuck them, by the time you have them re worked you will be halfway to a set of new vortecs. The 882 flow somewhat OK but the combustion chamber on them is lacking compared to modern designs like the gm fast burn chambers, like whats on the vortecs. When you go to the machinist talk to him about used heads, he may have some. I would look for the 193 swirl ports or the 062 vortec heads (the vortec requires extra parts so do your homework). People talk garbage about the 193 heads but if your not racing the car and spending all the time at 4000rpms and up they'll be a good piece at the right price.

If it was me doing this project I would throw all your parts in the scrap pile. Search craigslist for a good core vortec engine. With this you will get the vortec heads (if they are in good shape) and a factory roller block with everything to set up a roller cam............you will still need to buy an aftermarket intake to bolt up to the vortec heads but you planned on an intake anyways, right?
Wow, thank you much!!!!! Just the info I needed. Headed to machine shop tomorrow. Let's see what happens
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