Doc here,
imp:
Will the car be subject to smog inspection?
What induction system does the 355 have?
What Distributer does it use?
Will ANY of it be dependent on Computer support?
Wiring is straight forward,
Large Battery cable to the Large terminal on the starter solenoid. Along with that, 2 #10 Gauge wires, both fuse linked, one to the main buss support system (fuse buss) and "Hot at all times" on the Ignition switch, the other to the Output Lug on the Alternator . (usually, Pink, Orange, Yellow or Red in colors)
The "S" Terminal on the solenoid, (Closest Small terminal to the block) will get a Purple wire, that leads to the neutral Safety Switch, From there to the "Hot in Start Only" terminal of the ignition switch.
The HEI will get a 12 to 10 gauge wire, usually (pink or orange or red in color) To the "BATT" Terminal on the cap. This comes from the "Hot In Run Only" terminal of the Ignition.
The Tach Terminal will get a white wire, about 14 gauge, This goes directly to the stock tach.
The Alternator, Depending on what type you have, will get (if a 3 wire 12SI Delco type internally Regulated) The output lug, (already covered, )
The #3 small red terminal may go to the Horn relay POWER wire, The Buss System, Or (if regulation is not a problem) Jumped Directly to the Alternator output wire, or battery , or single isolated terminal lug at or near the battery.
The #2 Wire, The Brown wire, will go to the factory charge lamp (and maybe the choke heater relay , is so designed) and the Ignition switch Via a fuse.
All the senders will hook up as they did when it came out EXCEPT, (if they will mechanically fit) use the stock senders in the new block, Their resistive values match the instruments..and it may be the ones on the new engine are NOT the same values..Then, If at all, the gauges will read grossly in error.
That SHOULD be all you need for basic Fire, run and charge on the new engine.
Doc
imp: