[tony350ss]

does anyone know if there is a kit for this? i am building an approx 450 hp SBC, and have a 2 bolt main. will a 2 bolt stand up to this hp? if so, what do i need to do to make a strong bottom end? i only wanna build this thing once!

[78 monte]

Another important factor is block nickel content.The higher the nickel the better.The #s are under the timing cover.I used to think I knew the #s till I got in a spitting contest on another board.You know one of those "The article I got is right!" "Nuaa my article is right!!" "No my article says....!!!""Well it wrong and your stupid!!" one o those spitting contests.

[ September 29, 2002: Message edited by: 78 monte ]</p>

[Jason]

It's not worth it to take a factory two bolt and turn it into a 4 bolt unless you know someone who owns a machine shop and can do the work for free.
You can get a used four bolt block for way cheaper than the four bolt conversion parts and labor charges.
Notice I didn't give an opinion on which I think is better.

[drgnwgn289]

I'm not a big small block guy, but I heard that you only need 4 bolt if you are pushing 600 horse.

[NAIRB]

You don't need a four bolt block. You can make alot of horsepower with 2 bolt mains and a cast crank, with the power level you are trying to achieve, I wouldn't bother even thinking about a 4 bolt block. I have build 500 plus horse bracket engines with 350 2 bolt blocks and cast iron cranks. Just make sure you put it together right, check your clearances, and pay attention to detail.

[Halloweenking]

I've seen a kit featured in one of the old rags I got, I beleive it was a car craft rag, not sure, I'll look and get back to you.

HK

[HemmiGremmie]

2 bolt should be fine, but you can add a main stud kit to aid in the durability and make it a little more rugged. Only cost 41.95 with no windage tray use and 55.95 with windage tray use. HG

[KULTULZ]

You might find a main cap girdle will give you more strength as it will eliminate cap walk unlike four bolt mains and the web area is not weakened with the extra machine work. This along with ARP studs will make you almost bullet proof.

MILODON makes the caps if you think you really need them.

[NAIRB]

One thing to remember about replacing fasteners. IE replacing bolts with studs, stud girdles ect is that many times a new fastener will distort the main bore. Especially if you use inferior quality parts, a customer of mine brought in a set of Dorman studs for his bottom end, and the things just absolutely screwed up the way the cap sat in the saddles. You should always carefully check how round your mains were compared to how they are with your new studs, or girdle, ect.

[KULTULZ]

Good Point!

It is very important to have the caps line bored if going to four bolt from two, factory or aftermarket.

[tony350ss]

[quote]Originally posted by 78 monte:
<strong>Another important factor is block nickel content.The higher the nickel the better.The #s are under the timing cover.I used to think I knew the #s till I got in a spitting contest on another board.You know one of those "The article I got is right!" "Nuaa my article is right!!" "No my article says....!!!""Well it wrong and your stupid!!" one o those spitting contests.

[ September 29, 2002: Message edited by: 78 monte ]</strong><hr></blockquote>

well the #s are as follows:
373
378
does anyone know what this means? isnt it if i dont have a 010 or a 020, that there isnt that much nickel or tin in there?

[BstMech]

According to my book 10 or 20 are the only #s that pertain to nickel and tin.

[78 monte]

The article I have is from 8/93 issue o Super Stock and drag illustrated.

It says that any block w/ 010raised between the freeze plugs is not a good block.It also says if the block has a narrow water pump tab its probably not worth takeing the cover off to look.Then it says if you find the #s 512,532 or 509 its a winner.This was from engine uilder Don Kirn.

I've also heard what Bstmech said that 010 is 10%nickel and 020 is 20% nickel.

Last time I posted these #s on another site I got a guy who not only wanted to prove his point but was a disrespectful SOB.Whick lead to me blasting off at the mouth and getting almost thrown off of a board(not this one).

[ September 30, 2002: Message edited by: 78 monte ]</p>

[NAIRB]

Your application will dictate whether you will need to beef up the bottom end or not.
When I freshen a customer's engine, you can always tell the guys who's cars hook up and make power, because they will begin to crack in the main webbing (normally in the corner where the main webbing meets the pan rail.)
Drag engines normally can get by with a little less heavy duty bottom end components due to the short time they run, and to an extent, they usually are not put into a "bind" like a circle track engine is.
Street engines can get by with 2 bolt mains and cast cranks, due to the fact that most of the time, if your making any power at all, you can't put the power to the ground anyway, at least enough power to break the bottom end.
Of all of the engines I've messed with, circle track engines, take the worst pounding most of the time. I can always tell if a car hooks good and makes good power, because sooner or later, cracks start to develop on these engines, guys that just buzz their tires, never tear up their bottom ends, unless they overwind the engine.
As a rule of thumb, you don't need fancy equipment unless you plan on very high RPMs, or extreme loading of the engine coupled with high horsepower situations.