I had a guy trying to tell me the other day that if you sand 2-k primer then let it set for more than 4 hrs with out sealing or painting it you should resuff or re-sand before you do. I can kind of see where he's coming from but not all that sure he's on the right track. I can see his point if you really loaded up the 2-k or your shop was a little on the cool side when you put it down.Will admit sometimes if I have a job ready to paint and then quit for the day without painting it I will hit it with a scuff pad and re-tack before I paint the next morning.
Me either ,and I've heard a few....
I hope not :sweat: :sweat: :sweat:
after I sand it usually doesnt get painted until at LEAST the next day.....but the first part of my prep work always starts with a hand scuffing while looking over every square inch of every panel to be painted wether its primed or not'after that I'll give it a good bath in W&Gremover ..Most times I'll stop and wait till the next day and start masking while I'm fresh in the morning,Then if its not to late I'll paint....A lot of times I'll want to paint a big job while I'm fresh too, so that s 48 hrs after my prep scuff....
As the myth busters would say ....BUSTED
Whoa there boys, yes, in the tech sheets of some urethane primers there was recommendations for this. Sherwin Williams Tint Prime was down to something like 2 hours as I remember, no kidding!
Ahh, I found it.
Maximum recoat time after Wet sanding: 1.5 Hours. After 1.5 Hours, solvent clean and
scuff with nylon pad.
I don't remember the particulars but there may be some curing help by the moisture like window urethane which is a moisture cure 1K. I am thinking you wet sand it and you are pushing the cure so it gets harder and smoother?
What you are doing when you sand if you think about is you are increasing the surface area, the dips and valleys of the scratches make it "longer". Think about getting a piece of paper and folding it like an accordion. Pull it out and it gets bigger right? I am thinking (and trying hard to remember) that this curing process makes it smooth out somehow on a microscopic level.
There ya go ya learn sumtin every day...I never used any primer from SW though.....Theres others out there as well ? makes me want to read the directions on my SPI Urathane prime now..never got past the mix ratio... :sweat:
Now every knows why us old fossils hate using new or different brands...BTW was that stuff any good....here I am asking a matin senior guy if sherwin willams stuff is any good..... :spank:
hows that for an unanswerable question gottcha
unless it IS good and you say it is ...hmmmmm
HEY... what if you dry sand it ????? wont it cure all the way?????
Pretty soon we will have to perform 60 hours of work within one day "for maximum adhesion". LOL!
Sometimes I have let my sanded 2K primer wait weeks before paint.... and never had any adhesion problems. If I had to do that on every job, I'd find a different product.
My problem is Isometimes all day to sand a car so when I got done I'd have to go back and resand and I'd be stuck in a perpetual sanding loop until there was no primer left on the car then I'd have to reprime and start again. :sweat:
Sounds like bodyman hellto me :mwink:
My problem is Isometimes all day to sand a car so when I got done I'd have to go back and resand and I'd be stuck in a perpetual sanding loop until there was no primer left on the car then I'd have to reprime and start again. :sweat:
Sounds like bodyman hellto me :mwink:
the tail solvents in a urethane primer will self heal the scratches if left to set. costing you mechanical bond. with epoxy sealer it's no problem but base over it can be the weak link.
I am a total novice when it comes to paint, but there is no way I am going to put anything on any primer within an hour and a half after wet sanding!!! The high moisture content will create more problems than letting it set over night or longer, in my humble opinion. Will look forward to what BK has to say about this.
It's not the end of the world guys. On a large project you could let it set for months sanded flat. Then get it all ready to go and like a tack rag you run it over it and blow it off wipe it down and tack it, no big deal.
I never do this, but....
You would be surprised how well paint, and clearcoat
will stayed adhered to a non-sanded surface if it
is really clean. (it does)
I am a total novice when it comes to paint, but there is no way I am going to put anything on any primer within an hour and a half after wet sanding!!! The high moisture content will create more problems than letting it set over night or longer, in my humble opinion. Will look forward to what BK has to say about this.
Speaking of which...Where the hells BK been ,I haven't seen anything posted by him in quite a while...he must be spending all day on the hotline and mixing up primer,I guess he dont have time for us any more ...I kinda miss the old farts internet personality..
I never do this, but....
You would be surprised how well paint, and clearcoat
will stayed adhered to a non-sanded surface if it
is really clean. (it does)
Thats true..if your within the window.If theres no body work to be done many times after stripping I'll go right to paint after the epoxy if the texture is slick enough ..The factories dont sand at all but on the other hand weve all seen the dodge peelers ,every one I've redone had shiny epoxy underneath ,it looks to me like they missed the window
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