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Sometimes buffing itself will seal the surface and hold things in a gloss limbo like you describe |
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What is the ONE difference between the two? That ONE difference (unless there was a difference in actual application) is that you applied more clear.
Clear isn't "clear", depending on the brand, and the "line" (one brand may have a clearer clear than another they sell) some are clearer than others. Where you could have done this exact same thing with another clear and not noticed a difference you could have done it with a clear that would have even had a worse difference. But applying more clear is actually one of the biggest mistakes made with these products. More is most definetly not better! Brian |
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I've noticed when I get a milky look in the clear paint its because of temperature. If the room temperature your spraying in is cold, the clear will become cloudy. If it's warm, the paint is clear. Sometimes, when heat is applied with a heater or heat gun while the paint is still fresh, it'll clear up the cloudiness. When I get a cloudy clear, I usually sand the coating off and respray it.
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Interesting, because I painted the "milky" panel at night (probably got to mid 60')s and painted the clear panel during the day (probably mid 80's).
Should I get it out in the sun for a couple days? When you say, "sand the coating off and respray", do you mean respray clear or lay down more base and then clear? |
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Since I have ~4-5 coats of clear, is it possible that I could sand down past the milky and then buff? I suppose this would just depend on how deep the milky-ness is.
Say I sand down ~1.5 coats, that would at least in theory leave me ~2.5-3.5 coats remaining. Should still be sufficient for maximum gloss and depth potential, right? If I were to remove more clear, what grit and method would you recommend. hand sand, da, etc...? Hand sanding with 600 seems like it would take forever! |
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Its hard to say without looking at it. Try sanding it with 1000 and then a 2000 and try rubbing it out. If its clear your fine. Otherwise, you'll have to sand it down. I prefer doing it by hand and a block. 450 will take it down fast. Try not to take too much of the basecoat paint, or you'll have to repaint that too. Use plenty of water so you can see what your sanding. The key is to have good paint and no milky prior to applying the clear. I learned by experimenting. Try a small section and see what you come up with. The worse that can happen is you have to reshoot the whole thing. That's the fun about working on cars right?
You'll be alright. Just have to put some elbow into it. The finished product is the payoff. Any you can say you did it.
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I talked with the clear manufacturer and he suggested getting it in the sun for a day or two, so I will try that first as a long shot.
So I've got it sanded with 1000 and in the sun. Hopefully that will do the trick, then I can sand with 2000 and buff! Last edited by shad9876; 10-22-2008 at 03:53 PM. |
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Leaving the surface "open" for a while by lightly sanding it (since it has already been sanded) and waiting for it to gas out a for 24 hours before buffing it again will make a diference.
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Since one of the variables was spraying the cloudy panel at night , the problem might be moisture in the clear. (Since there's higher humidity
at night). If that's the case, then it'll clear up when the moisture evaporates. Might take awhile, but anything to heat it up will help, either using heaters or leaving it in sunlight. |
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Hi everyone! I,m new to the board. I,m a little late but here is what I believe is causing you're milky look, it's the 600 grit scratch from the paper. I'm speaking from my experience I've painted showcars and one time I decided to sand the clear and respray a flow coat. I used 600 and guess what I had the same thing it looked good, but just didn't have the depth "hazey looking". Next time I did 600 and followed it with 1000 grit, that made a world of difference.
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