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  #46 (permalink)  
Old 10-22-2012, 01:20 AM
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Broken Accumulator springs are very common.
I'd replace that Acc. Plate, it's worn more than most.
Steels should be replaced, hot spots from heat/wear.
May want to invest in a Billet shafted Forward Drum. I'm sure that one has been weakend from the heat, they're the #1 weak link anyway.
OD Ring Gear is probably Ok, most all look blueish.
Check all the Planetary carrier pinion gears for pitting/cracking & check Gear to Pin & side clearance, Front, Rear & OD. Spline wear etc..

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  #47 (permalink)  
Old 10-22-2012, 06:12 AM
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thanks for the reply ssedan. What causes the accumulator spring to break and what will happen when it does. I never drove the car I pulled the trans from so idk how it shifted or acted.

Also I noticed that the forward drum on Jake's site is $299 where as CKperformance has theirs listed at $389. Is there a difference between the two?

Last edited by zildjian4life218; 10-22-2012 at 06:38 AM.
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Old 10-22-2012, 12:59 PM
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My spring came out like that too. I was told it is pretty common. I was going to reuse the plate with a new spring. I have been told to replace any steels that have bluing or hot spots. I haven't taken mine out yet.

Check out my journal for pix of mine.

Last edited by TexasT; 10-22-2012 at 01:05 PM.
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Old 10-22-2012, 02:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TexasT View Post
My spring came out like that too. I was told it is pretty common. I was going to reuse the plate with a new spring. I have been told to replace any steels that have bluing or hot spots. I haven't taken mine out yet.

Check out my journal for pix of mine.
ugh why didn't I think of using a 5 gal bucket? Man that would have made it a lot easier and less messy haha. Looks like your stator support held up rather well. What kind of engine hp/tq are you gonna be putting your 2004r behind?
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Old 10-22-2012, 05:41 PM
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I was given the tip about the bucket on one of those links. Another is to use a brake drum that the tail fits in but I didn't have one. Check out the gnttype.org link. He has some very good tips for reassembly. I am going to place a call to David Husek when I get to the reassembly stage. I think mine has been overhauled before as the clutches look pretty new.

Mine will go into my Regal. It has a 700r4 in it now but came with a 2004r when it was new.
It is a turbo v6.
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Old 10-24-2012, 07:24 PM
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I was given the tip about the bucket on one of those links. Another is to use a brake drum that the tail fits in but I didn't have one. Check out the gnttype.org link. He has some very good tips for reassembly. I am going to place a call to David Husek when I get to the reassembly stage. I think mine has been overhauled before as the clutches look pretty new.

Mine will go into my Regal. It has a 700r4 in it now but came with a 2004r when it was new.
It is a turbo v6.
What hard parts are you replacing and are you doing the dual feed mod?
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Old 10-24-2012, 08:20 PM
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What hard parts are you replacing and are you doing the dual feed mod?
My budget isn't allowing for a billet forward at this time but if I could afford it I would use one and do the dual feed. I think my stuff looks good. I do have a used billet servo I will be using. Might have to get a new rod if the clearance isn't good. other than that I am going with just clutches and seals. I found a local place to cut apart my torque converter and clean it out.

Low budget at this time for me. Our oldest daughter went to college this fall. Money isn't something I have much of right now. I just want to get mine rolling again.
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  #53 (permalink)  
Old 10-24-2012, 08:33 PM
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Low budget at this time for me. Our oldest daughter went to college this fall. Money isn't something I have much of right now. I just want to get mine rolling again.
As a recent college grad I feel your pain. At least I got 6 months to save up before I have to start paying back all those school loans! I am gonna start putting money away ever week so that come january I should have all the parts for this trans to get it put back together and hopefully ran on a dyno somewhere to verify everything is peachy with it. I wonder if I could just run it on my engine test stand and monitor the line pressure... hmmm
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  #54 (permalink)  
Old 10-27-2012, 04:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zildjian4life218 View Post
thanks for the reply ssedan. What causes the accumulator spring to break and what will happen when it does. I never drove the car I pulled the trans from so idk how it shifted or acted.

Also I noticed that the forward drum on Jake's site is $299 where as CKperformance has theirs listed at $389. Is there a difference between the two?
Just fatigue from hydraulic Pr. slamming them back & forth. Some possibly from defects in the spring material.

Not sure who makes the Forward Drums on Jake's site, don't have any Info about them.
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  #55 (permalink)  
Old 11-03-2012, 07:14 AM
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I want to give a big thanks to SSedan64 for the input. Great info.

Also I have run across another information packed place and while not 200 4r specific it does have some info on clutches and how they have different purposes and needs.
700R4 4L60E 4L80E How To Build High Performance Transmission III - Trutechtrans.com

There are several parts to the article but this is wwhere static and dynamic are discussed.

I have come across several different bands and would like some input. Both appear to be the 2 1/4" wide variety but have different clutch material.
Red Alto appears cheaper But I have read of the carbon metallic being "the next best thing to sliced bread".
http://www.altousa.com/images/new_products/np84.pdf
Any thoughts?

Blue Plate Clutches from Raybestos? Any input?
http://www.redrider.us/RaybestosBlue2-1.jpg
http://www.redrider.us/RaybestosB2.jpg

Last edited by TexasT; 11-03-2012 at 07:41 AM.
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Old 11-03-2012, 10:21 AM
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Quote:
from matt69cutlass at oldspwoer.com

Re: Drilling 200-R front drain
Remove the pump, disassemble and remove front bushing and seal. Take a 5/16 and enlarge the drainback hole, take the drill and slightly "wiggle" the drill to elongate the drain hole. Flip the pump over and drill the intersecting drain hole to match the front. Once this is all done install a new bushing, making sure it doesn't cover the drain hole (now you see the reason for elongating the hole) and install a new seal. A seal retainer from a late model 4L60/4L60E would be a wise addition.
Thought this of interest.

also, this. Kinda long but it has a bunch of part numbers and such. I signed up for the mailing list but was unable to find his posts on the build from he77. Maybe someone else has a link.

The Monte Carlo Mailing List: Tech Articles
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Old 12-12-2012, 10:02 AM
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i rebuilt my own 200 4r and its been working just fine. read the book read the book. take your time, keep it in order. keep it clean, and double ckeck everthing (twice). talked to a tranny fella and he told me how people started working on their own tranny and then screwed it up and then thought he could fix it. I'm retired so time wasn't a problem. while my toy stayed warm in the garage, i built the tranny. lots of fun. so much so, that i built a second one. extra clutches bigger valves upgraded relieved pump now that i've done mine, i can't figure out why more of us are not using the 200 4r. IL kept my 350 tranny put away incase my kids someday want to put it back to stock after im gone. but for now i've got my cake (tranny) and eating (driving) it to.
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  #58 (permalink)  
Old 07-21-2013, 04:24 PM
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I came across a second core today. The code is 5cq. Malibu racing says its from an ss. Is there anything in it that makes it stronger or more desirable?
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Old 07-21-2013, 08:06 PM
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The cq was from a ss monte from 1984 or 5. Its ok, but its one of the early versions of the 200 4r. Its a good rebuilder if you throw some bigger valves, better red clutches and upgraded the pump. Don't go cheap on it or you will pay later. You need to read up on the 200 before you rebuild it. I up the clutch count on mine. I rebuilt the pump to 10 vane from 7. Hardened rings and relieved it. I can tell you that if you use the bigger valves, do not drill out the separator plate if you use the bigger 2nd gear servo, or you will get shifts that are a little rough. Just revamped a deep pan for my toy. I even built my own deep filter so it sits on the bottom of the pan. I didn't like the idea of using the 700 filter. I liked the idea of the 200 filter feeding from the top, but sitting on the bottom of the pan. That way the garbage won't be sucked into the filter. It took a while to get it figured out, but it worked fine. Have fun with it. I've even got a spare one I rebuilt.
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Old 07-22-2013, 08:35 AM
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Originally Posted by dwwl View Post
The cq was from a ss monte from 1984 or 5. Its ok, but its one of the early versions of the 200 4r. Its a good rebuilder if you throw some bigger valves, better red clutches and upgraded the pump. Don't go cheap on it or you will pay later. You need to read up on the 200 before you rebuild it. I up the clutch count on mine. I rebuilt the pump to 10 vane from 7. Hardened rings and relieved it. I can tell you that if you use the bigger valves, do not drill out the separator plate if you use the bigger 2nd gear servo, or you will get shifts that are a little rough. Just revamped a deep pan for my toy. I even built my own deep filter so it sits on the bottom of the pan. I didn't like the idea of using the 700 filter. I liked the idea of the 200 filter feeding from the top, but sitting on the bottom of the pan. That way the garbage won't be sucked into the filter. It took a while to get it figured out, but it worked fine. Have fun with it. I've even got a spare one I rebuilt.
So it is still a step below the infamous "CZF" trans?
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