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Old 09-04-2007, 04:15 PM
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2000 GMC Sonoma brake problems

I have a 2000 gmc sonoma. I had problems with it pulling to the left so I changed the right hose and caliper. It did fine after that. Then it started pulling to the right so I changed the left hose and caliper. Bled the brakes from fartherest wheel away from the master cylinder working my way to the closest. And the truck seemed to be stopping fine occasionally pulling to the left. Then I decided to vacuum bleed it and made sure there was no air in the lines. Now when you drive for a short distance and hit the brakes the ABS comes on and tries to back the brake pedal up causing it to be hard to press. You can hear the electric motor running making a growling noise from inside the cab of the truck causing the wheel to jerk violently back and forth while trying to stop. After it does this, the ABS light comes on and disables the ABS. Don't know what else to do...help!!!

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Old 09-05-2007, 07:03 AM
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i had a 96 s10 that done the same thing with the abs, so i unplugged it from the computer out on the fenderwell. the abs light stayed on but i had better brakes(no abs at all). now i have a 99 blazer that was doing something similar, turns out the battery was the problem, wasnt enough juice to operate the computer for the abs.
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Old 09-05-2007, 12:41 PM
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brakes whoas

run i will try that unplugging the abs and see if the pulling stops but i have another question could the upper a frame bushings have any effect on braking .. the back ones are starting to show signs of cracking cause the exhaust manifolds are real close to them
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Old 09-05-2007, 01:16 PM
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i dont think unplugging the abs will fix the left or right side pull but it will elminate the growling noise of the abs and you will stop better. the a frame bushing could be bad enough to throw you left or right on hard braking. i experienced this before on an s10.
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Old 09-05-2007, 01:43 PM
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brakes.....

thanks for the help runn i will get the upper bushings fixed and let you know what effect it had so everybody can see
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Old 10-12-2008, 05:12 PM
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just an update the truck is a pile of .......went through the brakes and it did not help going to take it to the crusher
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Old 10-13-2008, 12:53 PM
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Have you even pulled the codes for the ABS?
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Old 10-13-2008, 01:35 PM
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yes...it showed brake light switch shorted,grounded,open.....wheel sendor open ,shorted
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Old 10-13-2008, 01:39 PM
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So did you test and or replace all those components (mainly the wheel speed sensors) and the wiring to them?
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Old 10-13-2008, 02:30 PM
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i replaced the brake light switch and it had no effect .....i have to order the wheel sensor from the dealer can not afford it a the time so i thought i would go to the junk yard well the want to sell the entire spindle hub and all and i dont need all of that .....going to replace the wheel sensor as soon as i can
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Old 10-13-2008, 02:39 PM
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If money is an issue don't just throw parts at it...figure out where the problem is and fix/replace just the parts needed. Are the front wheel bearings (unit bearing in this case) tight?
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Old 10-13-2008, 03:06 PM
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yes they are in fact they are brand new i am hoping it is a wheel sensor
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Old 10-13-2008, 03:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woodmanscott@hotmail
i replaced the brake light switch and it had no effect .....i have to order the wheel sensor from the dealer can not afford it a the time so i thought i would go to the junk yard well the want to sell the entire spindle hub and all and i dont need all of that .....going to replace the wheel sensor as soon as i can
Any metal debris (rust, filings, etc) that gets on the sensor will cause a problem. Before spending any money, consider removing the senor and cleaning it.
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Old 10-13-2008, 03:29 PM
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i just went out there and took an ohm meter and checked the sensor in question and it reads nothing but the one on the left read like 900-1000ohms cant remember for sure but it was high i am assuming that that is going to be a good place to start
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Old 10-13-2008, 04:12 PM
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Well there you go...the one with 0ohms has shorted out and needs to be replaced. I don't know what the spec. is for your truck but 1000ohms sounds about right. You should also be able to measure AC voltage in the mV range when you spin the wheel.
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