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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 11-25-2012, 01:21 AM
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2000 vortec 5.7 needs building advice

Check out this website they are talking about what you have in mind. Also check out the links they recommend too. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=693486

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Old 11-25-2012, 01:48 PM
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Back in July I purchased a BM 144 blower for 800. They comonly sell around a 1000. Cannot reason why 400+ hp for 1500 is out of the question. Budget yourself and get a plan together, it will be done.
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Old 11-25-2012, 05:44 PM
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i am trying to do as much research as possiable to make a good reliable and strong motor hopefully the good feedback keeps comeing ive been reading about ls6 valves and springs/. anyone know anything about that
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Old 11-26-2012, 11:43 AM
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The beehive Ls6/ Series 2 v6 spring and retainer is a slight upgrade from the stock springs. Drop on to the valves. The series 2 and vortec heads have the same valve stem diameter. Ther are pictures of the mounted ls6 springs on 906 vortecs in my photo journal.
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Old 11-26-2012, 12:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daddydec21 View Post
i am trying to do as much research as possiable to make a good reliable and strong motor hopefully the good feedback keeps comeing ive been reading about ls6 valves and springs/. anyone know anything about that
1. L31 castings are thin-wall and crack-prone. You may have to magnaflux several sets of them to find two valid players.
2. Yes, you can gain more lift with different springs, but that doesn't address the O.D. of the valve guide. Without cutting the guides, you're still limited to single springs with no damper and stock seals. Try running a roller cam with small diameter single springs. Good luck. Best way is to shorten the guide and reduce the diameter of the guide. Then you can use the correct springs with the correct diameter and dampers for a hydraulic roller cam.
3. Rocker studs are pressed-in and will not tolerate more than about 260 lbs over the nose until they begin pulling out of the heads. You can fix this by drilling and pinning the stock studs or pulling them out, milling the stud pedestal area and tapping for screw-in studs. If you don't mill the heads at the stud area, the screw-in studs will sit too high and you won't have enough thread to adjust the valves.
4. The holes where the pushrods come up through the heads will have to be clearanced.
By the time you get all this done, you will have more invested in these heads than they are worth and they still won't perform as well as a dedicated aftermarket head.

Look at these #12410-02 assembled cast iron heads from Racing Head Service......
Pro Torker Assembled Cylinder Head Racing Head Service (RHS) 12410-02 - Pace Performance Parts
A complete set of heads with hydraulic roller springs, screw-in studs and guide plates, $958 for the set and they'll flow better than the L31 Vortecs and they won't crack as easily. They'll easily make 400 hp and 450 ft/lbs of torque with a well-matched set of components.
I can guarantee you'll have more than that invested in a set of L31 heads by the time you upgrade them to the level of these RHS heads.

Last edited by techinspector1; 11-26-2012 at 12:59 PM.
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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 11-26-2012, 08:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daddydec21 View Post
as i said i do have 2 vortecs here, both run, i am new to the enigine building process. the trucks not going to be beat on on a everyday basis just driven for fun and on the gas once in a while. im looking at staying around 1500 but i can move up in price as i dont need this motor built right away,
good reads...
Vortec Small-Block Build - Popular Hot Rodding Magazine

Vortec Cylinder Heads: The Definitive Guide - NastyZ28.com
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