I have a 2002 Silverado with 4.3. Im now replacing my 3rd cap.
Once i installed the new cap and rotor, i was able to start the truck. That fixed my previous problem. But now it sounds like something inside the cap is rubbing slightly off center (a tapping sound). If you put your hand on the cap while running, you can feel it. And additionally if you put a slight amount of pressure on the front of the cap and push backwards (towards firewall), the sound diminishes.
We removed the cap and rotor and checked them out, and reinstalled them. Making sure all was aligned. Same result. A rubbing/tapping sound.
With the cap and rotor off, i can grab the rotor mounting plate and seem to be able to wobble it a bit. Maybe 3-4mm's. But seems only in one direction (towards fire wall).
Anyone seen these distri's have bushings in them that go bad?
Am i way off base?
Do we need a big hammer?
i've some of those distributors last a very long time, others that needed to be replaced before 50K because of excessive wear like you have.
i've never had one apart, but i don't believe there is a bushing in the top of it.
What did you end up haveing to do? I have the same problem replaced the cap and rotor and same clicking/rubbing noise and can feel it when you touch it. What all did you have to do to correct the problem.
I bought a 1/2 ton PU from the local electric co-op for a couple hundred dollars awhile ago- had a blown engine, 4.3L V6 like yours.
Upon disassembly, I found the crank in two pieces. Also found the distributor's top bushing worn out real bad. The distributor may have been a cause of the crank failure, due to spark scatter lighting off cylinders that were in opposition to one another. Those cranks have the "slipped disc" arrangement and are none to beefy where the rod journal offsets occur.
Bottom line is I would replace it ASAP, just to be on the safe side. I'm guessing you already know, but turn the engine to TDC on the damper and tab. The rotor will be pointing at either #1 or #4. Reinstall the same way, this just makes it easier to keep your place w/the installation. Once the distributor is out, don't turn the engine over.
It give me a P0171 code on the computer also saying bank 1 is running lean could be the O2 sensor also, maybe the O2 bad causing the distributer to misfire ???? It run fine during acceleration and cruising just at idle rpms drop and wants to die. Thanks for the info good luck!
I bought a 1/2 ton PU from the local electric co-op for a couple hundred dollars awhile ago- had a blown engine, 4.3L V6 like yours.
Upon disassembly, I found the crank in two pieces. Also found the distributor's top bushing worn out real bad. The distributor may have been a cause of the crank failure, due to spark scatter lighting off cylinders that were in opposition to one another. Those cranks have the "slipped disc" arrangement and are none to beefy where the rod journal offsets occur.
Bottom line is I would replace it ASAP, just to be on the safe side. I'm guessing you already know, but turn the engine to TDC on the damper and tab. The rotor will be pointing at either #1 or #4. Reinstall the same way, this just makes it easier to keep your place w/the installation. Once the distributor is out, don't turn the engine over.
It give me a P0171 code on the computer also saying bank 1 is running lean could be the O2 sensor also, maybe the O2 bad causing the distributer to misfire ???? It run fine during acceleration and cruising just at idle rpms drop and wants to die. Thanks for the info good luck!
We replaced the stock distributor with a 'stock replacement' ordered online (I dont know where he ordered it from). And the truck fired right up, but had a slight vibration/miss to it.
Took it to the mechanic, he said the 'stock replacement' dist's arent exactly right alot of times. He put in an OEM dist and all is solved.
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