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2004 acura 3.2 TL cranks but no start

8K views 5 replies 4 participants last post by  OldTech 
#1 ·
I have a 2004 Acura 3.2 TL V6. about 160k miles on it now. Since the day Ive owned it, its performed perfectly with no issues other than needing new brake pads, rotors and regular oil/filter change. So, yesterday, I was really low on gas and started the car to take it to the gas station about 1.5 miles up the street. It started up fine, then as I was exiting our neighborhood it began idling super low then died. Of course my first thought was I had ran the tank empty. It started back up and I rushed the car to the gas station. I turned it off, filled it up (premium of course) then started it backk up and went to the grocery store about another mile away. It drove fine as usual but when I got into the parking space it it started idling low again and died. It would not restart and I had to get it towed home. It cranks and cranks but doesnt start.

After a lot of research I went out and removed the cover to the fuel pump and had my son turn the key to 'ON' I could hear the fuel pump prime for about 2 seconds. Then he turned the key to start and the engine cranked and cranked but wouldnt start. While it was cranking, the fuel pump made no noise. It only made noise during initial prime. So, if it primes, but doesnt pump during cranking, I thought maybe the relay is faulty?

So, after reading a lot about Honda/Acura fuel pump relays I began my search to my no start issue. I keep reading and seeing videos about a large fuel pump relay that owners take apart and re-solder. My fuel pump relay is small, blue, epoxy sealed and is located about an inch above the main fuse panel along with the IG COIL relay, and the FI MAIN relay (both are a red color). I took all 3 of them out and performed the same tests on all 3. Fed the relay 12v, heard the click, then continuity tested the 2 remaining tabs on the relay. All 3 relays passed the test multiple times. I put them back in, tried to start and same thing crank crank crank no start. So, maybe the fuel pump is bad? I tap on it softly with a dead blow hammer (to break loose any possible binding) and again try to start, no dice.

So, with my relays seemingly working fine, I took off my air filter housing and manually opened the butterfly valve. it smelled faintly of gas but not as strong as you'd think from cranking so many times and not starting.. So, Im stumped. I want to check the coil packs for spark, to eliminate any issues with ignition, but I dont know how. I have also checked the fuel pump fuse and it has perfect continuity.

Since the pump makes noise in the key on position, and then no noise during cranking, am I having a fuel issue? Or does this sound more like ignition?
 
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#2 ·
chances are the fuel pump is dead..

lets find out.. while one person is cranking the engine.. another person is pounding fairly hard on the bottom of the fuel tank.. this will in about 90 percent of the time get the fuel pump to turn on one more time. .


with a test light.. your relays have 1/4" terminals for the coil winding connections... don't probe those cavities in the socket.. find out if one or the other large terminal is powered.. if yes.. you can hook up an digital volt meter in DC amp mode across the big terminal connectors .. this should power the pump up. what kind of amp draw do you get.

in doing the test above... you should hear fuel surging thru the fuel lines on the motor.


here is that test done on a chevy S10.. https://youtu.be/vEiZ5QRu9Mw

HUGE WARNING.. if you don't get fuel pump operation or you get excessive amp draw.. over 10 amps.. disconnect you only need a few seconds to get a measurement.. the harborfreight 37772 has a 20 amp DC setting.

running low on fuel is really hard on the fuel pumps... when they start pulling air in.. as the air goes thru the pump spins faster .. there is no fuel to keep the bushings lubed..
 
#3 ·
It might be a bad pump or a bad filter. I had the same problem with a Subaru. A local shop determined that a new motor was needed. My grandson came to me asking what it would cost for me to replace the engine. After diagnosing the problem he bought a new pump and a filter (just to be safe) and the car was running again. I found out his electric fan was not working and told him to get a new one.
He drove the car for a year without the fan and now he is without a car.
 
#4 ·
You need to find out what is missing, fuel or spark. Spark testers are cheap. Fuel pressure is also critical. just because the pump is making noise it doesn't mean it is pumping.

Have you tried squirting a little gas in the throttle body to see if it starts and dies.
if it does most likely your pump is not doing the job
 
#5 ·
Took out coil pack and spark plug from 1 cylinder. cranked car, saw spark, but it was slow and seemed weak, this is probably due to the battery dying from cranking so much, now it is cranking slow. Shot starting fluid into intake. Cranks but no start. Again, cranking slow due to battery dying, so I cant say if the spark is too blame yet.

I bypassed my fuel pump relay and confirmed the pump pumps continually while car is cranking.

Disconnected the fuel line at the fuel tank. The fuel pump is one assembly with the regulator, fuel filter, sending unit, and pump all in one unit, so this is the easiest place I can test the pump because their is no schrader valve in the engine compartment. I hooked up the gauge. 56lbs while pumping, and held 52lbs when turned off. Looks like my fuel pump is working fine.

Since I bypassed the fuel pump relay, and have witnessed the pump pumping during cranking, then Im narrowed down to either ignition or something that controls the fuel injectors. maybe they just aren't firing?

I cannot continue till I get the battery charged. Autozone is doing that for me now, my charger is broken.

With a full battery, Ill spray more starting fluid in the TB. If no start, then I have probably an ignition issue, whatever controls all the coil packs. If it does start, then I must have an issues with whatever controls the fuel injectors.
 
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