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-   -   200r4 to LQ4 (steel block LS) (http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/200r4-lq4-steel-block-ls-116732.html)

olds79 05-24-2007 09:02 PM

200r4 to LQ4 (steel block LS)
 
Alright I am planning on putting a LQ4 in my olds and hooking it up to my 200r4, I know there is a space issue between the LQ4 flywheel and the torque converter (according to the Raptor Trans website) they sell a spacer for this, but then go on to say that i have to elongate the bolt holes in the converter to hook everything up. I dont if its just me or does that sound like it would comprimise the integrity of the driveline? Any advice? or does anyone know of a place that make converter's with custom bolt pattern.
thanks guys!

jakeshoe 05-24-2007 09:15 PM

When using a conventional style trans behind an LSx engine you need the spacer that goes between the crankshaft an flexplate. The spacer is there for the converter to index into since the crankshaft doesn't protrude as far back relative to the bellhousing mating flange on the LS engines.

You also need the flat flywheel instead of the bell shaped one.

About $200 worth of parts from GM, because the bolts are also longer and shanked to center the spacer so it all stays concentric.

GM used these parts on the vehicles that used 4L80E's behind the LSx engines.

One thing to keep in mind, 1999-2000 (maybe 2001?) 6.0L had a different crankshaft that protruded further so you wouldn't need the spacer.

Anytime you use a PowerGlide, TH350, TH400, 200-4R, 700-R4, or 4L80E behind these powerplants you need the spacer, flat flexplate, and bolts.

LB181 05-24-2007 11:36 PM

Olds79, I am doing a similar swap. I am putting a 5.3 Vortec Engine with a 700R4 into a 51 Chevy Pickup. I am still planning on how to address the trans/torque converter issue like you are. I really don't know what the best option will be for me, as I currently don't even have a flex plate for my engine, I am starting from scratch. You had asked about elongating the holes, and if it weakened your drivetrain. TCI has a flexplate, TCI 399753 that is made of billet steel, and it looks like it has both bolt patterns for the LS1, and earlier generation small block. I guess you would still need the crank shaft spacer though. Just another option. There is also a writeup on another forum that addresses this problem. www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=639693
Let us know what you decide to do. Like I said, I am still studying my options.
Corey

S10xGN 05-26-2007 08:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by olds79
...elongate the bolt holes in the converter to hook everything up. I dont if its just me or does that sound like it would comprimise the integrity of the driveline...
thanks guys!

I can't imagine it weakening anything. Remember, (hopefully) you'll be torqueing those bolts to 50+ lb-ft. If it still bothers you, rotate the flywheel (in the direction of rotation) up against the edge of the "slot" so it's loaded, then tighten the bolts.

Russ


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