200r4 wiring for OD/lock-up - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
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Old 09-19-2007, 12:06 PM
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200r4 wiring for OD/lock-up

I have a 92 s10 v8 conversion project that someone else started.
82 200r4 was installed and used but the wiring for the lock-up was not completed. Transmission has a three wire connector (red/green/black) though none of these connect to anything outside the housing. All of the internal wiring (original ?) was done with black wire though it appears the solenoid was replaced as there are connectors in the wiring at the solenoid (and a short red lead from the solenoid) The external red changes to black inside and extends to the solenoid (+). The external black extends as black to one terminal of the pressure switch. The external green wire changes to black inside then splits to extend to both the solenoid (-) and a terminal at the pressure switch. (I was hoping to attach a skecth and pictures but have not figured that out yet).

I am thinking if I bring hot through the brake switch (breaks circuit when brake is applied) and to the red wire at the trans, ground the exterior black wire and just cap the exterior green wire, then the system will work (the "green" wiring acting inside the trans as a jumper between the solenoid and the pressure switch).

With two terminals on the pressure switch I assume it is not a self grounding switch. I am also assuming it is "open" until shifting into fourth causes the pressure needed to activate (close) the circuit and activate the solenoid and the lock-up.

A little long but hopefully able to be understood.

Thanks for any help that can be offered.

Ceethefoolwithaquestion

can anyone tell me how to attach a picture?
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Last edited by ceethefool; 09-21-2007 at 08:10 AM. Reason: add picture(s)
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Old 09-20-2007, 12:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ceethefool
I have a 92 s10 v8 conversion project that someone else started.
82 200r4 was installed and used but the wiring for the lock-up was not completed. Transmission has a three wire connector (red/green/black) though none of these connect to anything outside the housing. All of the internal wiring (original ?) was done with black wire though it appears the solenoid was replaced as there are connectors in the wiring at the solenoid (and a short red lead from the solenoid) The external red changes to black inside and extends to the solenoid (+). The external black extends as black to one terminal of the pressure switch. The external green wire changes to black inside then splits to extend to both the solenoid (-) and a terminal at the pressure switch. (I was hoping to attach a skecth and pictures but have not figured that out yet).

I am thinking if I bring hot through the brake switch (breaks circuit when brake is applied) and to the red wire at the trans, ground the exterior black wire and just cap the exterior green wire, then the system will work (the "green" wiring acting inside the trans as a jumper between the solenoid and the pressure switch).

With two terminals on the pressure switch I assume it is not a self grounding switch. I am also assuming it is "open" until shifting into fourth causes the pressure needed to activate (close) the circuit and activate the solenoid and the lock-up.

A little long but hopefully able to be understood.

Thanks for any help that can be offered.

Ceethefoolwithaquestion

can anyone tell me how to attach a picture?
I have a TCI lock up kit that sounds similar to yours on mine the red is connected to a switched 12V and I do have mine going thru the aux brake switch, the black is the ground which actually actuates my lock up utilizing a vacuum switch @ 8in but could also be hooked to a toggle switch for manual lock up and the green wire on mine is used to manually lock up in gears other than 4th should you want that option. Hope this helps.
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Old 09-28-2007, 11:26 AM
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Thanks for the advice

Anyone else care to comment?

I have a 92 s10 v8 conversion project that someone else started.
82 200r4 was installed and used but the wiring for the lock-up was not completed. Transmission has a three wire connector (red/green/black) though none of these connect to anything outside the housing. All of the internal wiring (original ?) was done with black wire though it appears the solenoid was replaced as there are connectors in the wiring at the solenoid (and a short red lead from the solenoid) The external red changes to black inside and extends to the solenoid (+). The external black extends as black to one terminal of the pressure switch. The external green wire changes to black inside then splits to extend to both the solenoid (-) and a terminal at the pressure switch. (I was hoping to attach a skecth and pictures but have not figured that out yet).

I am thinking if I bring hot through the brake switch (breaks circuit when brake is applied) and to the red wire at the trans, ground the exterior black wire and just cap the exterior green wire, then the system will work (the "green" wiring acting inside the trans as a jumper between the solenoid and the pressure switch).

With two terminals on the pressure switch I assume it is not a self grounding switch. I am also assuming it is "open" until shifting into fourth causes the pressure needed to activate (close) the circuit and activate the solenoid and the lock-up.

A little long but hopefully able to be understood.

Thanks for any help that can be offered.

Ceethefoolwithaquestion

picture attached to original message.
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Old 09-29-2007, 08:01 AM
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I can't comment on the wiring at the transmission -- the transmission got a basic overhaul and the shop just said to run a hot wire through the brake cancel switch to a wire on the transmission (don't remember the color). They said I would also need a vacuum switch and/or a toggle switch. My car uses a non-CC quadrajet and vacuum advance distributor.

Based on other discussions on this board, I ran a wire from the brake cancel (NO) prong of the brake switch, through an appropriate GM vacuum switch mounted on the top of the intake manifold and then onto the transmission wire. I ran a vacuum hose from a ported carb fitting to the vacuum switch.

The lockup works in 4th only and unlocks when the brake was applied or I gave the car enough throttle that the engine vacuum dropped and the vacuum switch broke the circuit. This worked pretty good except when driving at constant low speeds (30-35 mph) in traffic or on winding country roads. Unless I gave it enough throttle to activate the vacuum switch (deenergize lockup), the car would feel like it was lugging under light throttle movement.

So, I wired a toggle switch in between the brake switch and the vacuum switch. Now I can manually disable the lockup feature via the toggle switch if I am in steady slow traffic in 4th gear. I haven't experimented with it, but I suspect you don't gain much increase in gas mileage from the lockup feature until you get up to 50 mph or so. I think some people leave it manually disabled via a toggle switch unless they are on the highway or interstate.

My mild 350 with 3.42 gears averages about 16-17 in urban driving and 19-20 on the interstate at 60-65 mph. Overall I have average 18 mpg over the last 2000 miles.

PM me if you need anything further.

John
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