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Old 10-21-2013, 06:20 AM
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2010 Ford Fusion trans, need some advice here!

I know, it's not a hotrod. My cousin joined the big group of Ford Fusion owners that had transmission trouble. I'ts toast, so I offered to help put another one in. I can't find any info on how to do it. I did it on my G6, and I had to lower the sub frame, I'm just wondering if that's kind of the same procedure here. Btw, if your wondering why I'm doing this and not the dealership, well, it's a good 5k to have it rebuilt, and we have another trans with 13k miles on it, and he paid $375. Also, yes, he is buying a chiltons.

2010 Ford Fusion
4 cyl

Thanks for the info!

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Old 10-21-2013, 09:27 AM
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I have a 2011 Fusion with the 2.5. I had heard that the 2010 had transmission problems and that the dealers could download a new program to fix it, but it seems that yours is already way beyond that. Sorry, I can't help you with the removal. I hope I never have to do that.
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Old 10-21-2013, 09:55 AM
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Sounds like he should have went in, or called to see if any updates were available. With the newer vehicles, you need to check for updates at least every 6 months or less. I bought a 2012 Ford Focus se, and have had 4 updates. And yes, some were trans related for shifting, and the way it shifts. My thought is, since they are computer controlled, even if you get the other trans in, you will still need to get the updates, or else, that will fail also. Changing the trans is pretty similar to any front wheel drive car. A hoist is a big help. And you need an engine support bar.
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Old 10-21-2013, 12:40 PM
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I agree with Denny as my wife's 2012 Fusion just had two updates to the PCM - transmission as well as the brakes.

As far as change out - I just did a quick web search - not a fun job and this is for a 2006, but I can't imagine it would be much different for any of them:

"Engine - Automatic Transaxle Printable View (1992 KB)


Special Tool(s) Heavy Duty Floor Crane
014-00071 or equivalent
Powertrain Lift
014-00765 or equivalent
Remover, Tie-Rod End
211-105
Spreader Bar
303-D089 (D93P-6001-A3) or equivalent
Universal Adapter Brackets (NNN) NNN-NNNNor equivalent

WARNING: Do not smoke, carry lighted tobacco or have an open flame of any type when working on or near any fuel-related component. Highly flammable mixtures are always present and may be ignited. Failure to follow these instructions may result in serious personal injury.

All vehicles

With the vehicle in NEUTRAL, position it on a hoist. For additional information, refer to Section 100-02.

Release the fuel system pressure. For additional information, refer to Section 310-00.

Disconnect the battery ground cable. For additional information, refer to Section 414-01.

Recover the A/C system. For additional information, refer to Section 412-00.

NOTE: Use a steering wheel holding device (such as Hunter® 28-75-1 or equivalent).
Using a suitable holding device, hold the steering wheel in the straight-ahead position.

Remove the 2 nuts and the steering joint cover.

NOTICE: Do not allow the intermediate shaft to rotate while it is disconnected from the gear or damage to the clockspring can occur. If there is evidence that the intermediate shaft has rotated, the clockspring must be removed and recentered. For additional information, refer to Section 501-20B.

NOTE: Index-mark the steering column shaft position to the steering gear for reference during installation.
Remove the bolt and disconnect the steering column shaft from the steering gear.

Remove the bolt and disconnect the Power Steering Pressure (PSP) tube from the power steering pump.
Route the PSP tube out the bottom of the engine compartment.

Drain the cooling system. For additional information, refer to Section 303-03.

If equipped, remove the 7 screws and the underbody cover.

Remove the exhaust flexible pipe. For additional information, refer to Section 309-00.

Remove the LH halfshaft and the intermediate shaft. For additional information, refer to Section 205-04.

NOTICE: The steering gear-to-dash seal must be removed or it will be damaged when lowering the subframe.
Release the 4 clips and slide the steering gear-to-dash seal off of the steering gear and into the passenger compartment.

Remove the engine roll restrictor bolt.

Remove the 4 screws and position the RH fender splash shield aside.

Remove the 6 pin-type retainers (4 shown) and the RH splash shield.

Remove the 4 screws and position the LH fender splash shield aside.

Remove the 6 pin-type retainers (4 shown) and the LH splash shield.

NOTE: LH shown, RH similar.
Remove the cotter pins and nuts from the tie-rod ends.

NOTE: LH shown, RH similar.
Using the Tie-Rod End Remover, separate the tie-rod ends from the steering knuckles.

Disconnect the power steering cooler tube.

NOTE: LH shown, RH similar.
Remove the nuts and separate the sway bar links from the struts.

Position the Powertrain Lift under the subframe assembly.

NOTE: LH shown, RH similar.
Remove the subframe bracket-to-body bolts.

NOTE: LH shown, RH similar.
Remove the subframe nuts and the subframe brackets.

NOTE: LH shown, RH similar.
Remove the front subframe nuts.

Lower the subframe assembly from the vehicle.

Remove the engine oil pan drain plug and drain the engine oil.
Install the drain plug and tighten to 28 Nm (21 lb-ft).

Remove the oil filter element. For additional information, refer to Engine Lubrication Components - Exploded View and Oil Filter Element in this section.

Remove the bolt, 2 nuts and the generator air inlet duct.

Remove the engine Air Cleaner (ACL) and ACL outlet pipe. For additional information, refer to Section 303-12A.

Remove the battery tray. For additional information, refer to Section 414-01.

Remove the nut and disconnect the wire from the battery cable.

Disconnect the 2 engine wiring harness electrical connectors.

Remove the bolt and the ground wire.

Disconnect the PCM electrical connector and the pin-type retainer.

Disconnect the fuel supply tube from the fuel rail. For additional information, refer to Section 310-00.

Disconnect the crankcase vent tube from the valve cover.

Depress the locking ring and disconnect the brake booster vacuum supply tube from the intake manifold.

Disconnect the Evaporative Emission (EVAP) tube from the intake manifold.

Detach the retaining clip and position the EVAP tube bundle aside.

Disconnect the upper radiator and heater hoses from the coolant bypass.

If equipped, disconnect the block heater electrical connector and detach the harness retaining clips from the heater hose.

Disconnect the heater hose in-line connector.

Disconnect the transaxle control cable from the control lever.
Detach the control cable from the bracket.

Disconnect the transaxle cooler tubes.

Remove the bolt and position the radio frequency interference capacitor and ground wire aside.

Detach the coolant vent hose retaining clip from the A/C tube.

Disconnect the power steering cooler tube.

Remove the 2 A/C tube bracket bolts.

Remove the 2 nuts and disconnect the A/C tubes.

Remove the nut and disconnect the A/C tube from the condenser.

Remove the bolt and the radio frequency interference capacitor from the engine mount bracket.

Remove the retaining clip and disconnect the lower radiator hose.

Remove the bellhousing-to-oil pan bolt.

Remove the 2 oil pan-to-bellhousing bolts.

Vehicles with Secondary Air Injection (AIR)

Disconnect the Secondary Air Injection (AIR) pump electrical connector.

Remove the 3 bolts and position the AIR pump aside.

All vehicles

NOTE: Position a suitable block of wood under the transaxle.
Install the Powertrain Lift and Universal Adapter Brackets onto the engine.
Raise the engine and transaxle 25.4 mm (1 in) to neutralize the engine and transaxle mounts.

Remove the 2 transaxle mount bolts.

Remove the bolt, 2 nuts and the engine mount bracket.

Lower the engine and transaxle from the vehicle.

Remove the 2 nuts and disconnect the starter wires.

Detach the 2 wiring harness retainers from the starter stud bolts.

Remove the 2 stud bolts and the starter.

Remove the 4 torque converter nuts.

Remove the bolt and transaxle ground wire.

Remove the nut and position the engine wiring harness bracket aside.

Disconnect the Transmission Range (TR) sensor and primary control solenoid electrical connectors.

Disconnect the transaxle control electrical connectors.

Disconnect the Turbine Shaft Speed (TSS) sensor electrical connector.

Disconnect the Output Shaft Speed (OSS) sensor electrical connector.

Disconnect the transaxle pressure switch electrical connector.

Install the Heavy Duty Floor Crane and Spreader Bar and remove the engine and transaxle from the Powertrain Lift table.

Remove the bellhousing-to-engine retainers.
Separate the engine and transaxle."

Found it here: http://www.justanswer.com/ford/2ci6a...automatic.html

Now, are you sure you REALLY want to do this job

Dave W
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Old 10-21-2013, 01:01 PM
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Also, I was sitting here thinking, most newer cars have a 3 year drive train warranty, with the option to extend it to 6 years. If he was the owner, and it was within the warranty time, he should be able to get it repaired under warranty.
I actually got a better finance deal by getting the extended warranty bumper to bumper. Also, this includes even if the clear headlight lenses fade. They figure every three years on that one.
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Old 10-21-2013, 01:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Denny View Post
Also, I was sitting here thinking, most newer cars have a 3 year drive train warranty, with the option to extend it to 6 years. If he was the owner, and it was within the warranty time, he should be able to get it repaired under warranty.
I actually got a better finance deal by getting the extended warranty bumper to bumper. Also, this includes even if the clear headlight lenses fade. They figure every three years on that one.
Denny - it's 3/36000 then the Ford ESP if you want it. One of 3 levels for up to 5/60,000 more. You can negotiate the price. I'm signing up for the middle plan with my 2011 F250 on Friday for about half of the original quoted price. The diesel engine in mine is 5/100,000 regardless. With a 2010 car, it may be long out of warranty if it was sold with a 2009 date of new service or has lots of miles and the owner didn't take advantage of the ESP offer.

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Old 10-21-2013, 07:30 PM
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Thanks for the info, it's not under warranty, he has about 70k miles on it. He is planning on selling it asap after the trans install. The funny thing is, his trans started acting up about 5 months ago, the dealership charged him $500 to replace some seals, and now it's blown. Funny how they didn't do any update then, or any update before that for the routine work, and they refuse any warranty type repair. Trust me, this kid would bring that car in for the littlest things. After talking to Ford and the dealership, basically Ford offered to pay half, leaving it at $2500. He has a bad taste in his mouth from this. My chevy silverado has 169k miles on it, same trans, and I never flushed the fluid, changed the filter...etc. Ford installs the trans as a sealed unit, with NO DIPSTICK, and expects the consumer to do the rest. If your going to sell a car for 20k, and list it as the best thing out there, you could at least stand by the drivetrain for 100k miles under normal wear. I side with my cousin here, were putting the trans in and dumping the piece of junk. Sorry for the rant, 70k miles shouldn't be blowing up a trans
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Old 10-21-2013, 07:34 PM
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[QUOTE=Irelands child;1854049]I agree with Denny as my wife's 2012 Fusion just had two updates to the PCM - transmission as well as the brakes.

As far as change out - I just did a quick web search - not a fun job and this is for a 2006, but I can't imagine it would be much different for any of them:

I got the same reaction when I told my buddy's I wanted to put a chevy 350 in my 66 Buick. A little welding with some 3/8" steel and it's now a fast classic. Anything is possible with a little brain power. Thanks for the info!
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Old 10-21-2013, 08:32 PM
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When I bought my 2008 Fusion I forgot about the junk transmission in the Taurus' that my employer bought years ago.

Anyway, this last July, mine went out and was replaced by the dealer. Luckily I had 1 month and 800 miles left on the drivetrain warranty. One month later and it would have cost me 5k. Wont be buying another Ford product.
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Old 10-21-2013, 08:39 PM
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Well, It's not just Ford. All have their own deficiencies in one way or another...Before I bought my 2012 Focus, I drove all the different brands. None were bad, but certain things just plain turned me off. This Focus was the only thing that fit what I liked, as far as comfort, the way the steering wheel was positioned, and overall performance. I have the 6 speed auto-stick model. Clutches are good for 150,000 miles. It had more of the options I wanted, for the same price range. But, I do think they should step up the warranty. But then, the price would also be higher. Nothing is for free...
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