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Old 07-28-2013, 05:52 PM
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212g 140 Singer

Hey whats the oppinions here on this weekend find. It was setup with 3 phase and i believe was never used by the previous owner as i didnt see any line coming in to the property with that. The oil levels were dry as were the wicks, past maintenance seems to have protected the shafts.
Table top is shot and motor would both be replaced if kept.
I would have to use this as a first trainer setup, or move on to something else.
Coffee and lunch was more than this, its the investment i would like oppinions on.
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Old 07-28-2013, 07:25 PM
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wall support

Maybe I could use it for another secondary task if and when a motor setup came along.
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Old 07-29-2013, 07:49 AM
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I have one. The 212 is a double needle machine that is set with one width between the needles. To change the width between the needles to another width, it would be about $400 in parts alone. It's fine for the purpose it is intended, but how many times are you going to need a double needle machine? You could take out one needle and use it that way, but there would be no other feet for it like a welt foot, etc., so it would be very limited as to what you could do with it. A canvas shop would have one of these around. The new table and a decent servo motor will cost you $350. If you get it for $50, I'd go for it.
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Old 07-29-2013, 08:56 AM
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Thanks for the tip Dan it has the 1/4" im not sure what a canvas shop would have i suppose wider. I helped a very good freind load there other finds and they bid for me on this and 5.00 got it so i gladly traded a ball park dog and coffee with coke on the side for the closer. Canvas work i do have in mind for future work. If this is a good gear up for that i will continue.
I have lost one gib screw already and this was after reading one of your past post concerning magnetic drivers for this, I did use them but one got away i warned myself before hand.
Anyhow thanks for the Pro advice
Good day
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Old 07-29-2013, 11:15 AM
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A canvas shop would use it to double stitch seams across the middle of a boat cover, and also around the bottom when sewing in shock cord. They would use it a lot.
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Old 08-12-2013, 10:32 PM
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some adjustment ?

Some of you all been doing this a bit so can you help with an answer.
As you know and seen I picked this up and commited to fix and or learn some basics, Old school and im sure it can get to be like a turkey wanting to go through a fence just keep trying.
I have done some cleaning and while all mechanicals looked ok from a green horn I commited to keep and use it for future endeavors. I ordered a table top and a reliable sew quiet 5000 and some screws so i could see how many wheeler bits it would take for the different sizes this machine had. Im not quite ready for motor mounting as im still working through this service manual pdf i found. While waiting on parts i cleaned and put some vari prime type primer on and some super cool paint thats pretty ugly and as my Dad always said pretty enough to stay that way.
Funny thing happened i sanded the top and hit the sight glass, having not used all of a headlight 3m product which is the stuff, anyhow used it and poished the oil sight back in shape and relized aluminum looks cool polished.
Well at this point i found the right needle hits the lower part of the hook guard. So as manual states bend that piece just barely so it still will hit first the needle if something happens to protect the hook, I did. The needle to hook adjustment is needed and I believe its done with a step in the manual im havin an executive decision moment. When doing this procedure after moving the saddle and securing it, the Gear that drives this has to have .008 relative to saddle face the manual says. Well trying to set hook timing im finding the gear is far left and way out of the .008 unless, crazy as it sounds measure to the opposite side to the left and this is where it was initaly, not that its right but it was there.
As you know I havent a clue how it would sew, not that it matters im here in these steps. a pic with the feeler guage is showing where its at left.
any thoughts welcome and thanks.
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Old 08-13-2013, 07:34 AM
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My advise is to take it to a pro to set the timing, tensions, and look for worn or broken parts. It will be the best $100 you ever spend, and then you don't have to agonize over it any more.


If you insist on doing it yourself, what you need to accomplish is getting the hook to pass the scarf of the needle (the cut out on the right side of the needle just below the eye of the needle) to pick up the top thread. You can eyeball that by looking at the hook and scarf while you turn the hand wheel. If the scarf of the needle is lower than the hook as they pass one another, raise the needle bar up. If the scarf is higher than the hook as they pass one another, raise the needle bar. The needle bar is the vertical shaft that holds the needle. Make sure the needle is as high up in the needle bar as it will go, and that the fluted side of the needle is pointing left and the scarf is pointing right. That will get you in the right ball park.
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Old 08-13-2013, 09:12 AM
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Thanks for the advice, Always believe in supporting your local wrench.
Sorry didnt nean to sound like i was bummin over the question.
Its gonna be done here and not a big deal, Im retired an Eatin it up.
Thanks dan
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Old 08-13-2013, 10:16 AM
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Wanted to put these on the last post but they wouldnt fit.
as the pro and tech manual suggest measuring also or using the marks on the bar or .080 up from bottom dc for a no marked bar Thanks Dan
the part that holds the needles seem clean but one is deeper than the other as i switched, so that needs addresed.
The hook or bobbin holder heights i need specs on. Here both are in scarf section of needle but at slightly different levels.
Any comments throw'em out here I can work with it, or come up with some great option like selvage or is it salvage
its a good day man
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Old 08-13-2013, 02:29 PM
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I have a 212, and both the bobbins and hooks are at exactly the same height. You have something off a little bit.
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Old 08-13-2013, 03:25 PM
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I resemble that remark Dan, ha ha. Im still lookin it over and I will check some other things, on the gear to saddle gap I dont know if thats minimum or what but the best i can do is .100 clearance on saddle side for timing hook at front to center side of needle, on right side. left is on the money and in spec.
Thanks
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Old 08-17-2013, 03:50 PM
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I was looking over the gear setup and decided to just move the saddle gear box over enough to move it one tooth, and that worked out for a clearance in spec at .008. Both hooks are in time, so set machine upright and adjusted bobbin openers after loosening screws on bottom as pic with pointers show, turning screw on top enables marks to align and this is in time with hook and needle timing. The hooks were both free after top lubed and allen head set screws were loosened. The height is still under some study as they are tight I moved the height adjustment screw up and down when set screws were released to no avail not that I could move them down but there is clearance measured on top with about .030 working room as there is sixty roughly the total. Im still waiting on some proper hinge setup but I set the machine in table for a motor install, pulley alignment, and V-belt fitting.
fired it up and set some speeds for a green horn only after a look see and listen with some more oiling. I need some more tech info on the setting of pulley position because it does not corespond to same stich per inch as actual needle holes punched. On this double needle the hook timing is set at 8 versus 0 Feed on the single needle as I read anyhow. Thats where its at now and glad to have gone through this far. Hope some can get some use from the pics.
Later and have a good day
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Old 08-18-2013, 07:52 PM
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picture above with pointers toward the gear is incorrect I cannot seem to edit this post,. sorry
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Old 08-21-2013, 08:53 PM
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Took old 3 phase motor to recyclers 3.80 on return.
I recieved the hinges to fit the new style top, and if i didnt say it before the router had to be used for corners and inside edge, setting felt pads in corners and trimming to fit establishing proper height of machine to table, not a big deal just some time fitting and routing. In that time i used up some gell coat sealing the inside cut out section and also the entire bottom. Sanded and used trim adhesive for corner felt pads. The oil pan then was installed with a pack # 8 stainless screws. This old one is 1/4" alluminum worth more than i paid for the machine. Now readjusting belt and installing bobbin winder, might use it but doubt it. I had sanded, primed, topcoated the light assy. I pulled the torch out and straightend the stand for thread spools, it was bent at the thread mounting area, so i need to mount these pieces and get back to the mechanics of this.
sorry so slow been doing some lanscape/ backhoe trenching for water lines in the garden irrigation and had to rebuild a hyd ram.
Good day
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Old 08-28-2013, 10:56 AM
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Thee Old Hook n Needle
Hi all I had some problems raising or lowering the hook and bobbin holder establishing a correct spec height. Not understanding the workings from experiance I jumped in, Time to remove the hook assembly and verify the issue and i can say its done. Probably a common problem once a small timing issue has messed things up a few times, anyway from the hook turning on the shaft from an issue as mentioned the Hook set screws marking the super tough shaft still prevents an easy adjustment. I started by the reading the manual a bit and this is the following and a close for this. Removed the throat plate for access visualy and for removing hook assembly parts, includes side needle guard lower thread guard these gave some better access to remove the hook bearing retainers.
Tilting machine for saddle oil pan drain and removal, this had to be done for access to bottom of the hook shaft. There are set screws on the lower hook shaft gear to be removed. By using some oil in there helping the shaft and gear removal, being carefull of markings on the shaft and not forcing this gear over such. Hook shaft assembly is moved upwards and out of the saddle block, catch lower gear and bearing while removing. Ive had a need for better phone pics sorry. Just want to say using a small straight edge, feeler guages measurments for clearance are easily made. The pic of the needle throat plate has a slot on the bottom for the stop on the bobbin case to fit, Im saying this because its all new to me, it requires a measurement clearance in this case .032, also there is another part of the hook that can hit or be very close to the bottom of this piece next to the slot section that needs looked at some are not the same if its a new hook or a double needle. More pics next reply
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