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220v mig welder extension cord?

36K views 36 replies 16 participants last post by  BT61 
#1 ·
I just got my new welder a mm175 and was wondering if anyone new where I could find a 50' extension cord at a reasonable price? Lowes did not have the male or female ends I need or I would do it myself. I have found 25' but, not 50'.
Is 50' going to lose power? I would like this so I can move it around my shop without having to install 2-4 new 220 outlet.
Thanks,
Mario
 
#2 ·
What you'll prolly have to do is buy the wire and install the ends.If its in a garage get SJO cord(it'll be stamped on the side of the wire),its oil resistant.Best thing would be just install a plug on one end and a steel box with the outlet on it.Make sure to ground the box.If its three wire ground to the neutral.If its 4 use the regular ground.
One thing to note if your outlets aren't allready there,if your going to be inspected by codes,you have to install 4 prong 220 outlets(2 hots,1 neutral,1 equipment ground).If there allready there and three wire(2 hots,1 neatral) its grandfathered.
As far as lossing power any run over 100' starts dropping voltage.If your 220 outlet is a ways from the panel you may expierience a voltage drop with the 50 extension on top of it.If you wall oulet is not allready tere it might be wise to up the wire size one.#8 for 30A etc...
Hope this helps

Also Lowe's is pretty generic as far as what they stock for electrical parts.I'd try a local electrical supply house they'll have anything you can need.
 
#5 ·
Your best bet to get good quality wire is an electrical supply house, ask for SO cord (flexible) and give them the amperage of the unit so they can size the wire properly. You will find that better quality wire is cheaper by the foot than pre made imported extension cords at Lowes.

Vince
 
#6 ·
what is posted above is what you need to do. go anywhere you have to go to get #6awg or at least #8 copper cord and probably to an electrical supplier to get the ends you want. the end. one note tho since i am a journeyman electrician. while it is now true that since the 1999 or 2002 code came out that all new electrical outlets for ranges and dryers have to be 4 prong, i.e. have a neutral. it is not true for any other 240 outlets or appliances. especially welders, and water heaters. these still can be installed with 2 hots only and a bare or green ground. the reason that ranges and dryers need a neutral is because of light bulbs and computers that run on 120 and create an unbalanced load. welders and water heaters dont have these so you only need a three prong plug. so you need a cord with a green, black and red. this will save you some bux. late:pimp:
 
#7 ·
I think I will follow your guys advice and goto the local electrical supply shop. I did already give them a call and the said it would run around $150.00 including the ends. Don't you think thats a little high? Maybe I am wrong but, I thought that was a little pricey for a homemade extension cord :confused:
But, if thats my only option I guess that's what I will do.
 
#9 ·
$150 sounds ridiculous to me. not sure what the prices are like in the U.S. but up here in Canada 8/3 cabtire is probably only $4-$5-/meter and your ends should only be around $10-$12. you want a Eagle 42 male plug or Leviton #931 which can be made for 30A or 50A 3wire plugs. need to know what your blade configuration is for your receptacle. on my welder it is only a 30A circuit but it has a 50A male plug on it. 30A/250v will have 2 horizontal blades and a ground, 50A is 2 vertical blades and ground.

JB
 
#14 ·
make your cord longer

one thing you might want to do is go into the welder and wire the cord straight into the welder. it will delete the cost of one end and also the pain of haveing a plug to trip over, the rest of the info from others here is right on the money, just a thought from an electrician. good luck with your project.
 
#16 ·
We just ran across 65 feet of Essex Royal 10-4 SOW 600V cable for free(the best price). This should work for what I am doing would'nt you think? My connects are three wire but, I could just cut back the fourth correct?
Thanks,
Mario and Tyler
 
#19 ·
OLE BULL!

Dad! is that you???
Gee imagine, two electrodes and we're both named bull. shheet!

anywaz, 10 is rated in ye ol happy code book at 35-40 amps depending on your insulation. although it should be fused at no more than a 30 amp ckt bkr. Dont know the needs of your welder but it will say on the nameplate. yes you can just cut off or not use the neutral. happy welding. my welder says it uses 53 amps on the primary side. (a stick welder) have never had any trouble with it so far on a 50A breaker but ya aint spozed to do that!! i used 10 guage because i got it free too. just keep an eye on it. feel it once in a while. put it on a 30A breaker to be really safe. i dont think it will trip. you can use the one you normally use for your dryer if you dont want to buy another one.
 
#21 ·
It is common NEC (National Electrical Code) practice to protect #10 AWG wire with a 30 amp fuse or breaker, #12 is 20 amp, #14 is 15 amp. These figures can vary slightly depending on the wire type and installation., but as a general rule these figures are good

It is also standard engineering practice to size wire at 125% of full load. At 19.5 amps with 4/C #10, you are way under the max load....start welding.

Vince
 
#23 ·
oh yeah, just one small note to everybody. when using an extention cord, if you leave any of it coiled up, IT WILL CUT THE AMPACITY OF THE WIRE so always unroll it as much as possible when using something with a big load, like your welder
 
#24 ·
Greetings,

I realize that this is a little late for the originator however for

230 Volt Extension Cord features 25' of 8/3 power cable with molded NEMA 6.50 (pin) male (plug) and female (receptacle) at each end.

also available in optional 50' length.

This extension is ideal for your 230 Volt welder and will mate up with all standard Miller, Hobart and ESAB 230 Volt welders with factory supplied power cords and plugs.

FREE STANDARD GROUND SHIPPING WITHIN CONTINENTAL U.S.


http://store.cyberweld.com/230voexco25.html
 
#25 ·
I put mine together from a local electrical supply house. I got 20ft (I forgot what guage) but it's for outdoor use. The thick rubber jacket is what determines the price in most cases. As long as you're using it inside a shop in dry conditions, you don't really need it. But you never really know when a puddle shows up in the garage, so I got the outdoor one.


MoocH
 
#26 · (Edited)
bullheimer said:
oh yeah, just one small note to everybody. when using an extention cord, if you leave any of it coiled up, IT WILL CUT THE AMPACITY OF THE WIRE so always unroll it as much as possible when using something with a big load, like your welder
Dah! Come on. Not the transformer theory. You should see how many miles of sealtight flex are coiled up under computer floors. You don't loose anything worth talking about.

302/Z28 said:
It is common NEC (National Electrical Code) practice to protect #10 AWG wire with a 30 amp fuse or breaker, #12 is 20 amp, #14 is 15 amp. These figures can vary slightly depending on the wire type and installation., but as a general rule these figures are good

It is also standard engineering practice to size wire at 125% of full load. At 19.5 amps with 4/C #10, you are way under the max load....start welding.

Vince
That is out of 310-16, but you have to use the correction factor for more than three current carrying conductors in 310-15(b)(2)(a), which is 80%. You are still okay at #10.
 
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