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Old 08-17-2009, 04:41 PM
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225 slant six starts then dies right away

225 slant six
one bbl carb
252 cam

after i did the cam break in it was running great. i let it idle for a bit few small revs turned if of then on a few times. then i let it sit for a bit (so i could eat lunch) then went to start it again and it starts but dies right away

i checked all my vac lines timing is 2* initial.

my thoughts are either:
not enough fuel
to much air
bad carb (i just cleaned up the old one)
or vapor lock the fuel line is very close to the exhaust manifold about 1 1/2 inches away.

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Old 08-17-2009, 09:31 PM
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ok its not vapor lock its not timing.

its either not enough fuel or to much air or a vac leak somewhere.

the only way i can get the engine to run is to pump the gas once and block of the carb with my hands to control the amount of air flow. the moment i remove my hands it dies

i think the carb isnt giving enough fuel at idle

while the engine was running (hands covering the carb) i slowly increased the throttle while slowly removing my hands (very little bit) and it ran fine.

so its something in the carb right???
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Old 08-17-2009, 09:41 PM
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probably picked up a piece of dirt of some sort and is blocking a fuel passage in carb some where. take of and clean internally and reseal all gaskets to insure no leakes
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Old 08-17-2009, 09:56 PM
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start then die

Just a thought, Does it start and die as soon as you let go of the key? Replace the ballast resistor on the firewall.
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Old 08-17-2009, 10:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 34Fords
Just a thought, Does it start and die as soon as you let go of the key? Replace the ballast resistor on the firewall.

no it dies shortly after. 3 or so seconds


ill try pulling the carb tomorrow.
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Old 08-18-2009, 02:07 AM
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Are you at all familiar w/the "choke it while it's running" routine that will dislodge junk that may be blocking air bleeds, etc?

You get the engine running at a good speed, then w/a rag, you block the carb opening completely- and at the same time open the throttle. Before it stalls, remove the rag and repeat a couple times. The suction/vacuum will often dislodge what ever's crapping up the carb.

The thing is, the carb needs to be running well enough that the engine can be revved up before it's choked.

You can always hit it w/a can of carb cleaner...
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Old 08-18-2009, 03:07 PM
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ok i pulled and cleaned the carb it fired up ran rough adjusted it a bit now it runs great. . . but!


just idling there the rpms increase on its own about 500rmps. when i disconnect the vac advance it idles down. i hook it up it does nothing its like its still disconnected. so that means new dist correct???

the dist in there was points but was converted to electric before we bought the car. so would i just buy a new points dist and pull the points or can i buy the electric dist and hook it up directly to what is in there???

im a large cap HEI guy so im not good with points.
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Old 08-18-2009, 03:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elcaminodragster
ok i pulled and cleaned the carb it fired up ran rough adjusted it a bit now it runs great. . . but!


just idling there the rpms increase on its own about 500rmps.
This is often caused by a vacuum leak somewhere, or the idle speed is right where the distributor wants to add mechanical advance- this will speed up the idle.

Quote:
i disconnect the vac advance it idles down. i hook it up it does nothing its like its still disconnected. so that means new dist correct???
This may just mean the advance mechanism needs cleaned and/or a new vacuum advance canister installed. Check yours by removing the cap and by mouth or a vac. pump, introduce a vacuum on the hose running to the vac. advance can. You should see the plate move, and the can should hold the vacuum. If not, it's bad.

But there's no reason just for that to replace the whole distributor.

Quote:
the dist in there was points but was converted to electric before we bought the car. so would i just buy a new points dist and pull the points or can i buy the electric dist and hook it up directly to what is in there???
I would keep what you have and work w/it- no need to replace it yet, at least IMO.
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Old 08-18-2009, 05:13 PM
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Did you just rebuild the carb? If so, check the float make sure it's not sticking and set correctly.
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Old 08-18-2009, 05:28 PM
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no i did not rebuild the carb i just remover the bowl (its a holly) cleaned out som garbage shot carb cleaner in all the areas i could then put it back on.

but that was only half the problem. its hard to explain but ill do my best. . .

from the carb is a vac hose it go to a diaphragm that is supposed to increase the vacuum the to the dist. that part was not working. so instead of getting a new one i simply hooked up the dist. to a vac port on the intake itself and presto! she runs strong drives beautifully and starts up like new
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Old 08-18-2009, 05:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cobalt327
This is often caused by a vacuum leak somewhere, or the idle speed is right where the distributor wants to add mechanical advance- this will speed up the idle.

This may just mean the advance mechanism needs cleaned and/or a new vacuum advance canister installed. Check yours by removing the cap and by mouth or a vac. pump, introduce a vacuum on the hose running to the vac. advance can. You should see the plate move, and the can should hold the vacuum. If not, it's bad.

But there's no reason just for that to replace the whole distributor.

I would keep what you have and work w/it- no need to replace it yet, at least IMO.

thank you for the help i tested the canister and it works. the problem was elsewhere. easily put the canister wasnt getting enough vac if any i bypassed a smog thing called a Orfaice Spark Advance Control (OSAC) hooked up the dist to full manifold vac and the engine runs perfect

thank you very much for your help
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