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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 11-13-2007, 07:27 PM
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Did you tighten the spring perches already? Loosen them up a bit so they can turn and center themselves as you adjust the radius rods. The spring mount should have been wleded to the frame to accomodate the rake of the frame and the caster in the axle. If it wasn't then an angle space might be in order.

Looking at the pictures a little closer, it looks like they tried to compensate for the perches being on backwards by adjusting the axle straight up. Otherwise, theres no way they could have hooked up the spring.

Good catch garyroushkolb

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Last edited by Arrowhead; 11-13-2007 at 07:34 PM.
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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 11-14-2007, 05:48 AM
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Thanks Gary,

I did loosten the "shackles" at the end of the spring to allow them to rotate (I think that's what they are called) and the center mount (Perch?) is what seems to be causing the slight twist. I will machine new parts and see what happens.

Thanks again,

Steve
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  #33 (permalink)  
Old 11-14-2007, 11:33 AM
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Here is the finished product with the machined pillow block @ 7 degrees, as well as the new Stainless bottom bracket machined to match. Everything seems to be in great alignment now. The only thing left is a test drive which will take place soon.

Thanks...
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  #34 (permalink)  
Old 11-14-2007, 01:44 PM
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Much better, bet it drives like a new car now.

I'll get crap for this, but I say it anyway. I think people get hung up on the toe in adjustments because there are so many variables that determine how a car will handle. I had a friend that has a racing background tell me if it steers too jerkey and sensitive, open up the the toe in. If it wanders, tighten up the toe in. I use the standard 1/8" as a starting point. Works for me and have even tire wear after 13,000 miles.
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  #35 (permalink)  
Old 11-14-2007, 01:55 PM
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Thanks again for all of your help. It figures that as soon as I was done, tools put away and the shop cleaned up it started raining. I feel like a little kid that can't go out and play.

Steve
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  #36 (permalink)  
Old 11-14-2007, 04:33 PM
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'23 T bucket

Since you found one loose nut, and you can't go out to play, this would be a good time to do a nut and bolt on the whole car if you haven't already. When I do mine, I start at the front and work my way to the back. Check everything. Even the work you just did.

Best wishes with your new ride. She's a beauty!! Youngster
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  #37 (permalink)  
Old 11-15-2007, 04:27 AM
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I have gone over the entire car and everything is in order and tight. Okay, here is the scoop. I was able to get out for a ride and the steering and overall handeling is much better. Of course, I did need to get on it and I still have the issue of it pulling hard to the right under power. It is easily controlled by steering slightly to the left, but when I let off of the gas (especially quickly) it really swerves to the right.

Not sure if I mentioned originally that this is a rollerized SB 350 built to about 400HP , connected to a TH400 with a 3500 stall converter. I am not sure why the builder used a 3500 stall , but that's what it has. Anyway, I will continue to search for the pulling solution and hope to speak with someone that participates in drag races for some advice.

Thank you..
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  #38 (permalink)  
Old 11-15-2007, 07:33 AM
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23 bucket

A 3500 stall converter will make the car feel smoother when you drive it. A stock stall speed will lunge or jump when you put it in gear. The high stall will feel like only one gear when you drive a slight throttle and just makes the car more driveable in my opinion. My own car has a really radical idle and way too much horsepower and is really nice to drive with a 3500 stall because it's light. A manual shift 400 will hardly be noticeable on a slight throttle shift where my buddy's T makes you spill your drink on any shift with a stock stall speed converter.
I'm sure a local racer will be able to help you with the launch of the car, there are so many variables to why it doing what it's doing, tire pressure, ladder bar preload or lack of, difference in length of your bars, and especially road traction can cause the car to launch crooked. Be careful, hard launches are a ticket waiting to happen.
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  #39 (permalink)  
Old 11-16-2007, 08:07 PM
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Now mind you, this is only an opinion..........I think the lurch, dive or pull when you lift is due to P-factor (or the opposite effect thereof) and the metaphysical-manifestation of Kepler's Third Law of the Conservation of Angular Momentum........ straight scoop... even though it's Friday night and I am enjoying a lively and slightly chilled Chardonnay.

It comes down to frame twisting due to a large leverage factor with a powerful twisting mechanism know as the motor mounted high in the very flexible frame, accumulating potential energy and then unloading to the path of least resistance - an increase in forward loading as weight transfer and a decrease in forward velocity.... small contact patches suddenly trying to deal with caster loading resisting or complimenting tire RSAT (Residual Self Aligning Torque) about the polar moment of the chassis.

T's have a tendency to have too much forward weight for their front tire size - lots of pushing and pulling things influencing vehicle dynamics with generally too much power and weight relative to weight distribution and the two large hunting-gyroscopes mounted on the rear axles. These gyroscopes can hunt independently or in unison and change their minds in a split second while you're trying to correct with a small steering wheel . It depends on the type of carrier - open, locked or slippable... did I say that right?

Or........... you could just say the car is a f**king handful and most of your audience would nod their heads and say; Yeah-ah!
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  #40 (permalink)  
Old 11-17-2007, 09:05 AM
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I must say, personally, I enjoy a dry Cab, or even a quality Brunello , but in any case I truly enjoyed your scientific response.

Thanks,

Steve
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