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Old 11-11-2007, 04:07 PM
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23 bucket

Hello,

I recently acquired a 23 T Bucket with a built up chevy 350, TH400 trans lots of go fast mods, etc. I am concerned and need some help with the front suspension. I am not sure what to expect, but it seems that I can't go above 65 mph without the front end vibrating. In addition, when I get on the throttle a bit, I have to counter steer or I will run off the road or change lanes, neither of which are healthy. Does anyone have any advise where to start? I assume that there are many of variables and don'd know what my expectations should be. For instance, should the car be capable of going 90 -100mph? Please advise.

Thanks,

Steve

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Old 11-11-2007, 04:24 PM
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Hard to diagnose ... without seeing the car ...

Some T-Buckets have very small tires on the front ...



Sometimes a car without enough toe-in with shimmy and shake @ speed. Most any car with a high power to weight ratio will pull to the right with a lot of power applied.

Camber and caster also are very important.
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Old 11-11-2007, 04:50 PM
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Deuce,

Thanks for the response. I do have what appear to be the same style wheels and tires that are reflected in the photo that you sent. The biggest difference that I see are the small shocks which mine dont have.

Also, the car actually drifts or sways to the left when you get on it and then over corrects to the right when you let off. Any Idea where to begin if I want to add the shocks which I imagine will help to stabilize?
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Old 11-11-2007, 05:01 PM
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The first ting you might want to do is do a thorough inspection of the chassis and suspension. You could have loose bolts, worn bushings, worn heim joints, poor steering geometry, the list goes on. it would be helpful to post some pictures so we know what your dealing with. No two T buckets are ever the same.

Have someone sit in the car and turn the whel left and right repeatedly. You can watch the joints move back and forth on the steering system to make sure everything is tight.

The pulling to the side sounds like it could be bumpsteer, or possible worn rear suspension parts.
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Old 11-11-2007, 05:48 PM
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Thanks for the info Arrowhead,

How are photos posted?
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Old 11-11-2007, 05:54 PM
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Do you have a panhard bar installed on the front end? Sometimes without one you will get side to side movement in the spring shackles that will cause darting etc.
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Old 11-11-2007, 06:08 PM
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Henry, (I hope thats your name),

I have only heard of this being used on the rear of a vehicle, never the front. Do you have a photo, or can you direct me to where I may see one installed.

Thank you
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Old 11-11-2007, 06:55 PM
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If you are running full size rotors and brakes they are very prone to vibration if not balanced perfectly. Most buckets will pull to the right when stomped on and are very suseptable to road crown. I have never seen a panhaard bar on the front of a T-Bucket but anything is possible. There is a good article on the National T-Bucket Alliance website on alignment.
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Old 11-11-2007, 07:20 PM
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I run a panhard bar on both the front and back of my T. The front bar is attached on one end to the bottom of the spring perch via a bracket, the other end is attached to the lower arm of a hair pin radius rod, just behind the clevis that attaches to the batwing. I'll see if I can find a picture and post it later.
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Old 11-11-2007, 08:01 PM
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When you click on "Post Reply", scroll down a little and you will see a box "manage attachments". You can add photos there.
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Old 11-11-2007, 08:18 PM
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if your getting torque steer, that is a counter steer when you get on it, a suspension component, front or rear is actually moving forward and backward. the rear can make it do it, because the thrust angle changes. get it checked out ASAP. if it's under 100k miles, you could try for lemon law if it's that bad.. but most importanly it's DANGEROUS.
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Old 11-11-2007, 08:28 PM
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Personaly, I'd take some of the opinions from the national t bucket alliance with a grain of salt. I've seen those guys argue whether shocks are even needed. I believe shock absorbers have been an accepted and necessary concept in automotive design world for around a hundred years.

What conceivable benefit is derived from not having shocks?

But, you'll see plenty of short wheel base, skinny wire wheels with small motorcycle size front tires, whimpy brakes, no shocks, guaranteed bump steer geometry, tie rod out front, big rear tires powered by a blown big block and the guy thinks it handles great.

Sir Wiston Churchill said it best. "It doesn't take all kinds, there just are all kinds".
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Old 11-11-2007, 10:58 PM
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wild ride t buckets

MY t sat in the barn for years , My son wanted to ride in it so he cleaned it up. got a battery out of the tractor and we rolled it out. I hadn.t driven it hard for 20 years. Did a wheelie and it headed for the fence. got the front wheels down and straight. I forgot how fast you can get into trouble. A friend, Joe Davis in Northern Calif set 4 drag racing records with his T. he used adjustable coilovers on the rear and tuned the suspension to go straight. also ran wheelie bars with adjusters on them ...HIs Colt 45 Mustang had one front wheel farther out front than the other, He told everyone that was to make it go straight with engine torque twisting the frame BUT actually he found that by running solid moon wheel covers and wheelie bars on the rear he could push both wheels thru the starting lites and the red lite was triggered when the light shined into the electric eye after the tires rolled past . one wheel then the other gave him a lot more jump distance than when it had 10 spoke mag.s on the front.. then if he jumped more than a tire width he got a red lite....don't try that today the timing lights work different now.
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Old 11-12-2007, 06:33 AM
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Thank you all for your input. I have attached several photos of my ride. Maybe you will see something that looks wrong or??? Thanks again...
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Old 11-12-2007, 01:41 PM
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Just by looking at the pictures, it appears there is some front-to-back stress on the spring shackles. Looking from above the front spring, notice how the shackles seem to align on the batwings forward of the overhead center of the spring, and the leaves of the spring are kind of aligned to the rear. The shackles are twisted between the spring eyes and the batwings. This may be because the way the tie rod is on the car, it needs to clear the frame's roll tube. If you can't get enough clearance after to clear the roll tube after adjusting the shackles to be vertical, you may have to alter the spring perch to let the spring come forward a little. Just my .02.
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