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  #136 (permalink)  
Old 10-12-2007, 07:25 PM
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'23 T bucket ?

When you are out looking for a Corvair steering box, look for a '60 to '64 model. Like I said before, they are alum and polish up nicely. The other nice thing about them is that they have a coupling just up the column shaft from the box. This makes it a lot easier to remove them because the box comes out the bottom and the column comes out from the top in one piece. If you need to use a u-joint in the column when you're installing the steering, those splines will be handy.

The '65 on up is a cast box that has a one piece column shaft. You have to pull the steering wheel and pull the box with the shaft out the bottom of the car. Kind of a ***** when the car is sitting on the ground.

I haven't seen any Corvairs in the yard with boxes in them for a couple of years, The last 2 I used came off of e-bay. If you go this way, don't get one that's reversed. It's real easy to do yourself. No need to pay to have someone else to do it.

Youngster

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  #137 (permalink)  
Old 10-12-2007, 07:27 PM
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Here's another T construction publication I found in my stuff:

PETERSON'S HOW TO BUILD A STREET ROD, ISBN 1870642171, 1985...2 part article (reprint) by Tom Medley on building a very nice T roadster top* for the Volksrod.

*EDITED for accuracy...

*having reread the article after all these years...the top is not a stock T-type that folds. It looks stock and is "canvas", but the oak top bows are fixed with steel brackets (not pin connection) to prevent movement, and the front wood header is tied by strap steel to the rear bows...it is explicitly intended to support the windshield when forward-support rods aren't used. The top is a "Bob Lee padded" style and so the bows are not visible thru the cloth. It is removable (without folding), but it is not a 5-minute job like folding down a stock top.

Last edited by GuyW; 10-13-2007 at 08:29 PM.
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  #138 (permalink)  
Old 10-12-2007, 07:38 PM
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'23 T bucket ?

I had forgotten about that one. I think there was some good information on putting wood in the body either in the article or as a separate piece.
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  #139 (permalink)  
Old 10-12-2007, 07:58 PM
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23 T Bucket?

Good advice on the box to look for youngster. The CCR plans include instructions on reversing the Corvair box but I'm going to pickup that Rodz issue also.

All those great magazine articles on T builds, would be nice to be able to easily pick 'em up somewhere. Most of mine are from the 1970-72 era.
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  #140 (permalink)  
Old 10-16-2007, 07:46 PM
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(let's see if this works)

Build your own '23 body??
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Last edited by GuyW; 10-16-2007 at 08:36 PM.
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  #141 (permalink)  
Old 10-16-2007, 08:29 PM
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'23 T bucket ?

GuyW.....I have a copy of that too, cool, isn't it? I would really like to find the same info on the '26 - '27 roadster and touring. At almost 62, I don't know if I could finish it.

Youngster
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  #142 (permalink)  
Old 10-16-2007, 08:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Youngster
GuyW.....I have a copy of that too, cool, isn't it? I would really like to find the same info on the '26 - '27 roadster and touring. At almost 62, I don't know if I could finish it.

Youngster
Yeah - those are from a Model T restoration book, and intended to help restorers put a bucket back together after doing woodwork (I think). Since the '26-27 didn't have that wood frame limitation, I doubt the same info exists.
I'd love to be proved wrong, tho.

BTW, I see this data being used to build molds for 'glass work...
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  #143 (permalink)  
Old 10-17-2007, 12:44 AM
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Street Rodder magazine has built several T buckets over the years and has some of those articles in the Tech section of their web site:

http://www.streetrodderweb.com/
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  #144 (permalink)  
Old 10-23-2007, 06:41 PM
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'23 T bucket ?

Just a note to let those interested in the T bucket chassis plans....don't give up on me yet. If there is anyone else who wants a set, PM your address to me. Sorry about he delay.

Youngster
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  #145 (permalink)  
Old 10-27-2007, 09:48 AM
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23 T Bucket?

I just picked up a copy of ol skool Rodz and the instruction for reversing the corvair box is excellent. Only problem is that these boxes have been picked clean from the local yards. I assume that reversing a Vega box would be similar and might be easier to find.
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  #146 (permalink)  
Old 10-27-2007, 10:14 AM
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23 T Bucket?

For a Corvair box it seems there are 2 ways to find one. Either find a whole Corvair to buy or e-bay. I scored one on the bay for $55 a couple of months ago. Guess I should have bought a bunch of 'em when they were a $15 to$20 item.

I have heard of a reversed Vega box but haven't seen one. Might be a good alternative. I would think there might be some clearance problems though. I just looked at the one in the shop. It's twice the size of the 'vair box. Might work for a cowl mounted box though. Have to look at that possibility closer.

Youngster
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  #147 (permalink)  
Old 11-07-2007, 05:16 PM
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INHO...one of the *****in'est T buckets ever built...Joe Gemsa...

http://www.hotautoweb.com/joegbdoc1.html

more Gemsa bangers

http://www.hotautoweb.com/joegb.html

I dunno how many hours as a kid I spent studying Gemsa's T...
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  #148 (permalink)  
Old 11-07-2007, 09:24 PM
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'23 T bucket ?

Good news guys.... for those who have contacted me, the frame packet will be going to the post office this Friday. If any one else wants them, PM me.

Youngster
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  #149 (permalink)  
Old 11-19-2007, 03:39 PM
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Youngster's plan set is very nice . . . thank you Youngster!

AllWorld1 . . . please check your pm.

TTYL,

Steve
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  #150 (permalink)  
Old 11-21-2007, 02:18 PM
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Some info on cheap but good paint jobs:

"....if you have reasonable skills and some patience, you can attain any level of quality you like. There are a couple of tricks to this that I discovered years ago when I started racing. Race bikes get crashed a lot and not wanting to waste a bunch of money on something that doesn't help you win, I was determined to find a fast, cheap, easy, repairable way to keep my bike looking sharp. My worst year, I had five high speed crashes (still won five championships that year) and every time, the next week, the bike rolled out of the trailer looking like new.
The couple of tricks I mentioned are.......use all rattle can paint and give it time to "out gas" before clear coating over it. This may sound nuts to you, but the quality of the paint is not critical once you apply a two part automotive clear coat. That seals in your rattle can base coat for many many years. There are literally thousands of different colors available between all the car and truck colors covering many years of different models, plus all the other various decorator colors from hardware stores and the like. These paints dry very fast between coats, so when you make a mistake, you can wet sand within minutes and fix it. There are all kinds of tapes available in many widths to help you to do clean, tight masking turns between colors. You can spot fill over your colors if you find a flaw that needs filling, give it a quick shot of prime and then hit it with your finish color again. You really can't make a mistake that isn't quickly fixable. When you are satisfied with your base color, pin striping, decals, etc...........wait at least a week for the color coat to "out gas" or cure. If you don't, the clear coat will lift the color coat. When you are ready to do the clear coat, start with a light mist coat to help set the base colors. Minutes later, this mist coat will dry and you can do one or two finish coats. These automotive two part clear coats are extremely tough and have a super high gloss "wet look" They are the same clear coats paints used by car companies and last for many years.
These clear coats are extremely toxic, so if you do not have or don't wish to purchase the proper safety equipment to use them, let a local auto body shop handle this last step. You will still save a fortune on your paint job....My paint is all from a True Value Hardware store. Black, white, green, yellow and silver. To buy those five colors alone in automotive base coat would be hundreds. I spent maybe $25. I seriously doubt if I could have gotten a five color paint job of this quality for much under $2k........possibly ........would have cost a lot more."
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