I have decided not to do the conversion to a bigger motor on my Falcon, too many complications and not worth it on a 4dr.

I have decided I'm going to build up a T bucket. I will be using a Total performance body, the 1 for $650 with the bed attached and the floor kit installed. I will use there basic frame that just has all the brackets and mounts installed, it is $575 for that. I will be buying the body fairly soon, and probably the chassie shortly thereafter. My thoughts are just over 10k compleated, I will build it cheap with only chrome on the engine and sprint style headders, headlights and taillight rims, and the rims will be chrome, all body/ suspension parts will be ordered plain steel. As I have no garage I will get TP's carson style hard top, that uses there performer windshield, and I will fabricate some close- in panals to fit the windows, they might be marine grade canvas material or fiberglass, removable w/ fairly hidden mounting places, but in any case I will match the color to the car as close as I can if I go that route ( canvas ). I want a cheap reliable power plant and trans so, I'm thinking 305 w/ TH350, no internal performance upgrades but maby a 4bbl intake ( 500 cfm Holley ontop ) and a set of chrome Valve covers and sprint style headders, possibly a mild cam but, I'm not looking for gobs of power, I know that the standard carb 305 pushes out a measly 145 HP but I'm ok with that, probably end up w 150-160 because of running headders, a better intake and a light cam. T buckets are light anyway so I'd be happy. I plan on using '39 Ford teardrop taillights mounted on the tailgate portion of the bed. I will also buy there instruction book and the instructional video. I think in the end, it will be a nice finished product in 2-3-4 or however many years it takes.

That is a nice build..very practical and likely to get done..good choices..

OMT

__________________
If it don't work it ain't pretty!!!!

I own a Total Performnce ride. Most of there items are top quality. Do your self a favor. Dont buy the Body until you need it. If it is laying arround it may get damaged/stained etc...
It will go real good with a low HP 305 or 350. I have a 350 / 375 Hp and it absolutly flies. If you want to do it slowly I would purchase the basic kit without the body, that gives you the front suspension, rear suspension and some brake parts. I woul definatly buy their brake line kit, it is worth the money. Everything just fits, no messing arround at all. Skip teh rear fenders , they are nothing but a pain in the butt. I dont know how tall you are but if you are 5'10" or more you may want to re-concider the performer windshield. I went and sat in one with the performer windshield and my whole neck and head were above the windshield. It would be kinda scarry going down the highway like that. I think with the top it would have been tight on headroom for me at 6"1". They are a really cool car to drive and always turn heads no matter where you go. I didnt notice where you were located, but I would try to find someone wiyh one with the short windshield and sit in it. I was at teh summernationals in Worccester MA in july and there was an older gentleman there who drove a bucket up from Florida. He had fashioned windows like you spoke of from some zip in plastic. I dont have a top on mine but I have been told you can really bake in it with a top. I also highly recomend their harness. Like their barke line kit evey thing lines up and fits. You can probably do it for 10K. I spent about 15 but I bought a lot of new parts, crate motor and a lot of chrome stuff. My best advise to you is make sure you use blue loktite on everything. When I put mine on the road I had several bolts rattle loose. I finally took any bolts that were not Nylock and loktited them.

Chet

Thanks for the advice on the performer windshield. I'm also 6' 1 so it's probably not good for me ither. I would have liked to run the carson style hard top but, guess I can't. I'm limited on money now so I can't buy the stage 3 chassie. I'm going to have to surfice for the 1 with just the mounts and stuff welded on, then buy the suspension components and rear end on, as the parts they sell seperatly are the same as what's on the stage 3 chassie. I will try to buy the body and frame at the same time, that way I could bounce back between body and frame work, so I don't get bored with doing just chassie work. As for running without a top, I do wan't it removable because I only need a top because I have no garage and I would need to keep rain out, that's the reason for the side panals. Storing it winters won't be a problem tho.

Most of their parts are also available elsewhere. They are pretty competitive with their pricing and stand behind what they sell. You can save a lot of money by staying away from the chrome. I would definatly buy some stuff from them if you are not a welder. The rear end housing has all the brackets welded in the right places. This saves a lot of time and headaches. You can save a lot of money buy going with regular front disk brakes from GM instead of the fancy small calipers. If I can be of assisance feel free to ask any questions. I built mine 2 years ago in about 2 months. It arrive on 5 pallets full of boxes and a chassis. It was real exciting to put it together. I did everthing myself except the interior roll. I just dont have the patience.

Good luck

Chet

I did a TP "kit" (i hate that word) You can check my journal for the complete buildup. I spent just about $10K doing all the work myself in about a year. Went with stock motor and trans. Almost no chrome, so I got creative in paint.

I like others can probably fill you in on some helpful hints if you go that way.

Sounds like you have your project well thought out. I would think about building a shed or buying a metal carport or something to park it in however. Anyway keep us posted and take plenty of pic's.

I plan on going no chrome for the suspension/ rear end parts they sell, that is what I budgeted. I do plan to buy everything pre welded as I do not have a good enough welder. I plan on buying everything but a few small things from TP, the few small things are going to be from speedway, that would be Deitz style headlamps, as they have pretty good 1's for $49 per pair. The other thing I might buy is there brake kit that uses standard GM stuff. I have an 8'X8' Shed and it is big enough to hold the body w/ room enough to work on it. I got a sort of carport. it is actully a 20'X8' green house frame that I will streatch 6 mil plastic over ( 6 mil is what they use for wrapping boats, so it will take it ), I will then anchor it to the ground so it don't fly off. Thanks guys

Also, Arrowhead, where did you put the battery? And how did you title your's. I'm located in Ny also, so I could follow the same procedures.

titling it wont be a problem but you might want to check state laws for "ILLEGAL" equipment cause headers are illegal to run on the road...aint a problem for me in South Carolina or flordia cause we dont have testing or inspection...as for the titling your body will come with a build sheet or a birth sheet...you take that down to the dmv and theyll title it as handbuilt or custom....the only thing i aint sure about is what kinda laws yall yankee boys have lol jk man.... but seriously might want to check to see whats mandatory and what it needs ,they ont pass it unless it meets state law.thanks and good luck,
GOTH

Yankies! Gos man i thought we were canadian in the winter LOL ,

When I helped my uncel on his in Ohio it didnt take to long to get a titel they basically asked for all your paper work and also take lots of photos for it so that yu can prove you built it if you need to. here the headders were a non issue just had to have a muffler on them this you can do eaily with a baffel type muff. And they still look nice.

On word of advice mout the headers in a way that nobody will get burnned on them my aunt got in to his once and cought her leg on the header and she now remebers it real well to watch out for them. with the mufflers they come back far enough to hit on them. his are on the side of the car high if you ask me .

But i will be watching this thread to see your progress i plan to do somethign like what your talking about after we get back to the states. Also somethign that light you really dont need a big motor to make them fast they have no weight on them . So they are like having a v-8 on a gokart.

I will have sprint style headders, there the 1's that go down the side, there basicly the standard T exzaust, and the 1's Tperformance sells, have baffeling in them. If I had to title as a 2005 homebuilt, I suppose there would be no issues with emmisions. NY has switched to a very tight emmisions testing and control on vehicles 1996 and newer, however the new system only uses the obd2 port to test for emmisions, theres no exzaust sniffer anymore, that system is obsolete. If they cannot test my car, how can they varrify that it pollutes? There are ways here to get them titled as the year they are if they are originals w no titles or modeled after that year car. Ny has no titles b4 1973. I did that with my '67 Falcon, it's a simple procedure, I did it leagally to a point. My '67 Falcon had no registration with it. I went to the DMV, they told me I needed a paper trace of the vin, then I had to get papers filled out by original owner, which I had filled out. the part that is not 100% is the fact that I did not find the Vin, so I used the body tag, which just tells what the is, the small DMV took it as the vin and all was good. I'm thinking I could do the same for the T, my lawn tractor has a very simple plate I could trace, get my granparents or sombody to fill out the forms as though I bought it from them, and it should work. I found out that if the car/ vin is out of the computers, there is no trace of the car ever exzisting.

The battery goes under the seat. As far a titleing and registering. Som e states have special provisions for kits and replica cars. Some are impossible. It sounds like you have already investigated it and are on the right track. There are also some comanys that for a fee will assist you wth this process. There is soome good info on the nationaltbucketalliance website.
I enlisted help with mine. It is titled an registerred as a 1923 so no emissions equipment needed and minimal safty equipment also. Make it a lot easier at inspection time

I started welding some 2" x 4" Rec tube today. I'm kinda flying by the seat of my pants. I would like to put a standard trani in my T Bucket, any advice ??
In addition, I am 6'4" I was looking for a stretched and widened body, any suggestions ? Thus far I only have $ 85.00 in my steel for my frame and of yeah, I purchased my front and rear suspension to night. I stopped by "croft" trailer and paid $ 85.00 for (2) leaf springs and all the mounting hardware. We're on fire. Somebody help me !! I haven't completly gone off the deep end. I met a man in my area that has an actual set of blue prints for building a frame and all the "to size" templates for the brackets. This is so cool. But obviously, there is much yet to learn. So all the help is appreciated. Thanks in advance Chris.

Matt,
Since you don't have a garage take a look at Public Storage. They have all sizes of storage garages. I have a 14 x 30 foot and built an overhead shelf for household storage of junk. The main floor we try to keep clean and open so we can work on our hot rods and trucks. I bring my dually in for routine service and just run the Willys all the way forward or run it out side. We even bring in the trailers occasionally.

Most of these have 9 pm exit but I stay untill 11-12 all the time.. they are safe and secure. Just don't make a mess and keep it quiet and they won't bother you. You'd be surprised how many people store their work stuff there and do work in them.

There is a single light bulb but I added a cord adaptor and use it for most of the power. If I need a bigger load I just fire up the generator. I also have a house A/C that fits under the door and a propane heater for the winter. They all work great.

Most of the T's I have seen use automatic trans. I have seen one manual so far. I'm 6'3" and look a little large in my T but I'm comfortable and really enjoy the car. I wear a size 12 double wide shoe so in my T there would be little room for the clutch pedal which I believe is a limitation for many of these cars.