Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board - View Single Post - 235 engine rebuild
View Single Post
  #8 (permalink)  
Old 09-22-2005, 07:53 AM
Neophyte's Avatar
Neophyte Neophyte is offline
I'm not superstitious

Last journal entry: Release catch for trunk lid pt.5
Last photo:
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Johannesburg, South Africa
Age: 47
Posts: 261
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Sorry to dig up an oldish thread but my questions relate to a few items mentioned here.

Originally Posted by
I highly recommend you do not use the '49 engine though. Prior to 1954, the 235 had several features that were not very attractive, including no oil pressure to the rod bearings, they got their lube from a 'splash' system. 1954 and later engines are totally 'modern' w/ hydraulic lifters, full oil pressure, etc. The easy way to tell them apart is the early 235 had the valve cover held on by two studs that go up through the valve cover whereas the later, desirable engine has 4 slotted screws around the rim of the valve cover.
I can get the following engine from rlackey, in return for some welding work. Although it came from his '54 Belair it does seem to have the two valve cover studs you mention and not the slotted screws around the rim of the valve cover. Does this alone mean it's not the 'full oil pressure' motor or are there other things I should look at too like maybe casting numbers etc. You see here in S.A. it's possible they still had old stock on motors and used that instead of sticking with correct specs.

The '52 I want to put the motor into has got a factory fitted dash from a '50 and that's why I'm now wondering how to make sure.

Originally Posted by
If you have hydraulic lifters, the rocker arms will have ball ends @ the push rods and will be screwed down 'tight'. Mechanical lifters will have ~0.015" clearance between the valve stem and rocker tip.

Hop-up tips -

Mill the head 0.100" for ~9.5:1 compression. Use a 244deg camshaft Got mine from Clifford. Do a minimal clean-up bore, don't go for much added Use a Clifford single 4-bbl manifold (with manifold heat provision) w/small Holley or Edelbrock carb. Use Fenton cast iron split headers and dual exhaust. Convert it to electronic ignition ( I show a cheapie but effective way to adapt Chrysler electronics to the stock 235 distributor in my Journal). Modify the engine for full flow oil filter like this (go to 'Tech Tips', click on 'Full Flow Conversion', click on 'Chev 235/261 Full Flow' follow the directions). As you may have noticed I installed a 2004R OD tranny using a Langdon's Stove Bolt Engine Co. adaptor so I won't be screaming @ 3000rpm @ 60mph.
Does the rocker arms look different if it has mechanical lifters?

How drivable is this combo of mods, apart from using the 2004R OD?

What kind of power does this combo make?

Last edited by Neophyte; 09-22-2005 at 08:04 AM. Reason: spelling
Reply With Quote