[rschmidt86]

Thanks for all the help so far. I will take my 3 283 blocks to have them sonic tested and then build on the best one. I want to make a screaming 302 (just my 283 block bored .125 over) where I can shift all day long at 8,000-9,000 rpms at least. The guy I got the blocks form suggested having the steel crank lightened. Is that best or should I not mess around with the crank? He also suggested using a 30/30 cam but i have no idea if I can even get ahold of one of those. any help with that or any other cam that would be good for this application? (I'm not worried with low end torque on this engine, just want it to be very high revving. as people posted on my previous post, i AM going to be revving the ******* out of it. I am fairly new to building engines and am wanting to learn and wide open to any suggestions on how to build this engine. I currently have a 355 in my 69 camaro but will swap it our for a while with the 302. I plan on mating it to a 4 speed muncie. also what gears would you recommend? Thanks again in advance for help and suggestions.
Ryan

[Deuce]

Originally Posted by rschmidt86

I am fairly new to building engines and am wanting to learn and wide open to any suggestions on how to build this engine.

I would suggest finding a 65 - 66 - 67 327 block. It is already a 4 inch bore without boring ... so it is a better block. It will also have the better rear main seal setup than the early rope seal engines.

I do not understand all the hoopla over a 302 ...



I have owned a real factory 302 in a Z-28 and had a few 327 block/283 crank combinations in a 55 Chevrolet and on the street ... a big motor WINS ... hands down over a 302.

[rschmidt86]

Thanks for the info. as for the 302, when i was real young, my dad's buddy had a 302 in his car (can't remember what it was) and the bigger engines would beat him off the line but give him a couple of hundred feet and he would scream past them at 11,000 rpms. no joke. course he probably had 15-25 grand in his engine. I dont plan on spending near that much. people would ask him what he had in it and he would smile and simply reply a little 302. and besides not many people have 302's.

[ScoTFrenzel]

CompCams will grind you a REAL 30/30
or a modernized 30/30
or sell you even a better cam than either.

Whatever, you are going to need small stem titanium valves and a very expensive lightweight valve train to turn those RPMs. Including a HI-rev kit.
And you are going to need some really low gears.

[techinspector1]

Build a 383, smile and tell 'em it's a 302. No problem.

[CNC BLOCKS NE]

We built a 302 .030 over for a customer a few years ago the only thing we did was bore it off the main line,change the rods out to a set of Crower rods, balance the rotator, line hone and everything was to factory spec and when it was dynoed it made 318 on the torque and 340 to 345 on the HP.

[speedydeedy]

Originally Posted by CNC BLOCKS NE

We built a 302 .030 over for a customer a few years ago the only thing we did was bore it off the main line,change the rods out to a set of Crower rods, balance the rotator, line hone and everything was to factory spec and when it was dynoed it made 318 on the torque and 340 to 345 on the HP.

Do you know what RPM that it made those numbers.I say build what you want but the idea someone said of building a 383 and say it is a 302 is probably a good idea.I like the nostalgia of a 302 but that is about the only reason to build one.JMO.

[CNC BLOCKS NE]

Originally Posted by speedydeedy

Do you know what RPM that it made those numbers.I say build what you want but the idea someone said of building a 383 and say it is a 302 is probably a good idea.I like the nostalgia of a 302 but that is about the only reason to build one.JMO.

The customer has the dyno sheets but if needed I could try to get one.

If interested I have a brand new 3 inch stroke crank and TRW 11:01 pistons and a set of rods on the psitons. PM me if interested

[FEDDO]

in the 50s when i had my first dragster we went thru 283 blocks all the time. but today ,I have a similiar dragster with a poured block and hilborn mech injection. nearly every block we bored was good in the 50s. I don't remember what pistons were used but they all had battle scars. today i am running a flat tappet cam, that will rev past 8k. that all i need. sonic cking blocks today is far ahead of what we had back then. My block today was cked and then poured. being an alcohol motor it has no water in the block,or heads.there are several sources for the 30/30 cam, but you might want to go with better technology. I would run at least a 4.11 gear. i ran a 55 chevy in the 60s with a 5.38 on the street.

[chevrolet327]

if you are interested i have a set on new manley forged 302 piston std 12.1 compression 200 $ pm me

[enginejr]

Don't know how to start this out. 1st off, I have been involved in a 11,000 rpm mini-pro 316 inch engine. It cost 20 grand in the mid-eighties and had two 660's on a tunnel ram. Unless you spend big bucks, you are not going to have a reliable 8-9000 rpm engine. unless you want to do it once, and only once. You need a .700 lift roller cam, rev kit, titanium retainers, and probably ti valves at least on the intake, shaft mounted rockers, and about 2 pounds of mallory metal in the stock crank. A duntov cam is about 300 not enough lift. BTW you can buy that cam brand new from speed pro for about 90 bucks. You'll need AT LEAST a 5.67 maybe even a 6.14 gear. And brother, you better have a heavy duty rear end if you are dropping the clutch at 9000. I hope you can shift!

[rschmidt86]

Thanks for the info. There is no rush in building this engine so I do plan on taking my time, doing it right and spending the money where needed.

[Blazin72]

I'm sorry but I agree with Deuce on this and I have to ask one question. Why does the Chevy 302 have this super high revving mystique to it but the untold millions of Ford 302/5.0s built with the exact same bore and stroke don't?

[chevrolet327]

i think ford use shorter rod on 302 and factory head are not really good

[GenYnNC]

It's funny... so many people on here giving this kid a hard time over a 302... it's his build, let him build it...not your money, he wants recomendations on parts for it, not a hard time about another or "better" combination...sound like a bunch of social planners in communist Russia or in our modern day democrat party... it's not YOUR money, it's HIS money.... so let him spend it how he wants...

Now as I remember, Grumpy Jenkins campeigned a 302 back in 68 when all the rage was the 'big blocks'... as I remember, he went to the word finals and mopped the floor with a bunch or chevy,mopar, ford big blocks.

Kid, I don't think your going to get to 9,000 on the street for around $5,000 or even $10,000- well maybe if you really look for good deals on parts... anyway good news for you today's technology has made prices cheap and you could build one to run around at 7,500 on the street pretty reasonable.

- Find a good machinist- this is the most important thing
- Don't get caught up with the little things or spend money where it isn't needed...for example 'coated' clevite bearings, they don't make power, they just help ensure it... a set of H-bearings from clevite with work fine or the regular P series - I've had the P series in latemodel race cars that see 7,200 all day & are fine after a season of 20 races on them
- Realize you will need a GOOD clutch, a GOOD rearend and figure that into the build
-The race gas to support that 13.1 compression ratio is going to be $8-$10 a gallon, unless you live in the midwest and can get E-85 (105octane)
- Power brakes, power steering are going to be out the door
-Good fasteners are needed throughout the engine and the exterior... such as a good pulley bolt.

And for all of you that don't understand why the 302 is special... go google "video of 69 302 engine dyno"... check that video out... it's pretty inspiring to say the least.